Chainsaw Chain Sharpening

[Penner]

Have a old chain that needs professional sharpening. Any recommendations around Edm? What’s the going rate?

[Jerry D]

Any stihl dealer probaby can do it, depending on the chain, costs are about $10 to sharpen in our area. New chains about $30.

Is it a standard chain?

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[TimeOff]

Timberland Supply. Have no complaints about their service. http://www.timberlandsupply.ca/contact/

[amosfella]

I'd just get the appropriate sized Stihl 2 in 1 file set, and sharpen it myself. Unless it's really really bad.

I've used the 2 in 1 file set to fix chains where I had to take off half the tooth to fix the chain. Word to the wise, don't use the Oregon end of bar sharpener on a chain not meant for it. It'll work the first couple of times, then the saw won't cut.

[Smoky buck]

I would also sharpen it myself it’s not hard and for those who suck at sharpening you can buy a jig that makes it idiot proof

Main thing always touch up your chain and it is easier to keep sharp. Neglect it and they suck to sharpen

[Sooner]

I have taken mine to PEC on Argyll rd and Alberta Small Engine on 50 st, just south of Sh Park Freeway.

[Bigwoodsman]

I've always sharpened them with a chainsaw file, simple quick and easy. Just count your file strokes and keep them even from tooth to tooth. You can feel it in the file when it's enough.

As a kid in the '70's we had wood burning fireplace. We would cut and split 10-12 cords a year. Dad showed us how to keep the saws sharp by hand as well as the axes. We'd be cutting and splitting and packing wood away almost daily from October to April.

BW

[CaberTosser]

My saw files don’t see much action since I got my Timberline sharpener. It’s pricey, but very precise. When hand sharpening with files, I did notice that I would sometimes be a bit uneven between sides and when this happened I would have the chain pulling the cut to one side. With the Timberline there’s no such issue, it gives absolute razor sharpness and perfect symmetry, even totally consistent cutting tooth length

[Cement Bench]

mine was 20 bucks for a stil sharpening

[58thecat]

Originally Posted by Penner

Have a old chain that needs professional sharpening. Any recommendations around Edm? What’s the going rate?

might just be worth replacing...if not get the old one sharpened and buy a spare....therefore you are never without a sharp chain.

[CNP]

I sharpen mine by hand with a file also.......but it's hard to justify when I can buy 3 chains and an 18" bar for my saw ($39) from amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07N78ZDSJ/...v_ov_lig_dp_it

[JDK71]

good to know how to sharpen your saw when you are out in the bush it is a must

[sjr]

Originally Posted by CaberTosser

My saw files don’t see much action since I got my Timberline sharpener. It’s pricey, but very precise. When hand sharpening with files, I did notice that I would sometimes be a bit uneven between sides and when this happened I would have the chain pulling the cut to one side. With the Timberline there’s no such issue, it gives absolute razor sharpness and perfect symmetry, even totally consistent cutting tooth length

Yes the only way to go , buy 2 chains keep them sharp change over in the field if you feel the saw pulling or working extra hard .
Proper hand filing is a art , not everyone can do it rite .

[cody j]

Holy cow, I didn’t think sharpening a chainsaw was a big deal. If anyone is Going far in the bush or doing a bunch of cutting it seems like kind of a necessary skill to have. But I sharpen my own knives too, so what do I know

[Jerry D]

Honeslty, my opinion. A file is okay for an ocassional cutter.

Someone doing any large qty of firewood will probably just swap chains in the field and then sharpen then on a bench grinder.

Hit a rock or nail in the wood or a peice of fence and your filing for hours to get past the damage. Thats why the bench grinder is where its at.

Chains are 25.00 a pop, have a few on hand for day of cutting.

Dont forget to touch up, dress the bar and flip it.

[HVA7mm]

Originally Posted by Jerry D

Honeslty, my opinion. A file is okay for an ocassional cutter.

Someone doing any large qty of firewood will probably just swap chains in the field and then sharpen then on a bench grinder.

Hit a rock or nail in the wood or a peice of fence and your filing for hours to get past the damage. Thats why the bench grinder is where its at.

Chains are 25.00 a pop, have a few on hand for day of cutting.

Dont forget to touch up, dress the bar and flip it.

I must have been doing it wrong when I was logging in my youth. All we had was a saw file and a raker file. The guys falling wouldn't need to sharpen that often, but the guys that were bucking had the chance to get a lot of practice, especially when cutting into 100" lengths. Didn't really swap chains as we had rolls of chain/master links and would just make one up as we needed it. Definitely didn't use a bench grinder. Unless you hit a rock, usually a couple of quick strokes with the file was all that was needed, and as the chain wore down a couple of strokes on the raker.

But for the OP: PEC, Timberland or other small engine shops would be good bets, especially if you aren't comfortable doing your own sharpening. This will save you a lot of aggravation.

[Dolly’s Mom]

I spent a summer running a chainsaw hard - falling, bucking and limboing. We got so we would run the file over the chain every time we filled the tank. The extra 5 minutes kept the chain in good cutting form. At the end of the day we would clean the saw properly - pull the cover, clean out any saw dust, check the filter, fuel, oil and properly sharpen the chain and raker tooth. We got so good that we could clean and sharpen a saw in about 15 minutes. Only replaced the chain when it was worn out. We didn’t use fancy guides, learned how to do it properly. A sharp saw does a better job and becomes a sense of pride. I don’t use a chainsaw much anymore but can still put a pretty good edge on a chain.

[Dolly’s Mom]

E

Originally Posted by Penner

Have a old chain that needs professional sharpening. Any recommendations around Edm? What’s the going rate?

Sorry, I don’t know where you can take your saw in the Edmonton area. If I lived closer I would offer to clean it up and sharpen the chain.

[Yukongold]

Sharpening a chain is all about file pressure. It takes practice but it is important to " gum out" the tooth and that is about making the pocket so the sharp file can do its work. When your are gumming out the tooth you are not sharpening the cutting edge so the file pressure is down at a 7 to 8 oclock angle. Don't undercut the cutting edge more than 90 degrees or just a little bit more. When you are filing the cutting edge the file pressure is towards the saw engine and upwards to get at the cutting edge. Follow the the angle scribed into the top of the tooth and don't over file. You do not need file guides, electric grinders or paying someone to 10 to 20 bucks to sharpen your saw. If you want the saw to cut more aggressively file down the rakers but be careful as this increases the bite and causes the teeth to grab and kick back.

[lannie]

Originally Posted by amosfella

I'd just get the appropriate sized Stihl 2 in 1 file set, and sharpen it myself. Unless it's really really bad.

I've used the 2 in 1 file set to fix chains where I had to take off half the tooth to fix the chain. Word to the wise, don't use the Oregon end of bar sharpener on a chain not meant for it. It'll work the first couple of times, then the saw won't cut.

Awesome file for sure. Files the rakers at the same time to the perfect height. Easiest to use and does the best job.

[Dewey Cox]

Anyone ever use a carbide tipped chain?
I've heard they stay sharp for a very long time.

[Smoky buck]

Originally Posted by Jerry D

Honeslty, my opinion. A file is okay for an ocassional cutter.

Someone doing any large qty of firewood will probably just swap chains in the field and then sharpen then on a bench grinder.

Hit a rock or nail in the wood or a peice of fence and your filing for hours to get past the damage. Thats why the bench grinder is where its at.

Chains are 25.00 a pop, have a few on hand for day of cutting.

Dont forget to touch up, dress the bar and flip it.

All the arborists and fallers I know would disagree with you

[C2C3PO]

Originally Posted by Dewey Cox

Anyone ever use a carbide tipped chain?
I've heard they stay sharp for a very long time.

Yes, they are awesome but quite pricey. Eventually they dull too from working on "dirty wood" and then you have to take in to someone like Timberland and have them sharpen it as a standard file won't touch it.

[cody j]

Originally Posted by Smoky buck

All the arborists and fallers I know would disagree with you

Yes, anybody getting after it should have a file on their belt.

[Jerry D]

Yes those are professionals and its their career, if you have people running saws that aren't professionals giving them a new sharp chain is the way to go.

Say they are your landscape employees doing shrub removal or the odd storm damage blown over tree cleanup in a residential setting where nails and embeded objects are common in trees. Your paying these guys low 20 bucks an hour. Having spare chains for them is more effective than paying them to fart around with a file.

When the chain finally comes off, it needs a bench grinder and I would say a bench grinder would be more effective at sharpening most home owners saws that are duller than dull and if your paying a saw sharpening place to do your chains, I doubt their tool of choice is a file. They will find the worst tooth, and grind them all back to that.

A lot of times it may only be 1 side or the other that is dull and doing a couple strokes on each tooth doesnt fix the issue.

A grinder with a jig resets all teeth to be the same.

A file is great for touch ups if you know what your doing every tank of gas a couple strokes but you have be cutting clean wood. Dont know what your doing and you could make it duller.



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[Penner]

Appreciate all the feedback. Have a newer chain that I’m using as my primary. This was the original chain that came on the saw. Have a jig and the files which I use to maintain an edge on things however 14+ years and countless trees has taken its toll. Like to get it done properly and use it as a back-up.

[TBark]

It’s already been mentioned,
Chains are $25-$30 ea and sharpening is aprx $20 now.
I just buy new but know how to file in a pinch.
Then again, some day I’ll have a dozen chains that I’ll have to do something with.

TBark

[FishOutOfWater]

Originally Posted by Penner

... 14+ years and countless trees has taken its toll...

As was said, if it's 14 yrs old, buy a new one... Sharpening will cost you more than half the price of a chain.

[catnthehat]

How to properly Sharpen chainsaws , knives, chisels and axes are just some of the things I was taught at a very young age, along with how to paddle and pole a canoe , skull a sneak box , and trim a boat .
Some of these skills are lost to newer outdoorsmen , but I feel blessed that I was taught them .
Cat

[350 mag]

Originally Posted by Dewey Cox

Anyone ever use a carbide tipped chain?
I've heard they stay sharp for a very long time.

They are 5x the price.

They cut slower.

But will stay sharp.

It's what firemen use to cut walls, roofs etc etc.