Best Skinning knife for $200

[sns2]

That is a lovely knife, but what is with the pins? They look like finishing nails that were broken off. Or are my eyes playing tricks on me? Likely the latter. Damn my eyes are bad.

[spurly]

Originally Posted by sns2

That is a lovely knife, but what is with the pins? They look like finishing nails that were broken off. Or are my eyes playing tricks on me? Likely the latter. Damn my eyes are bad.

Just my opinion, but if he tried to grind them off, it would ruin the looks of the anger handle. Could be wrong too. Also if you made them bigger, would look real weird.

[senderomag]

Originally Posted by sns2

That is a lovely knife, but what is with the pins? They look like finishing nails that were broken off. Or are my eyes playing tricks on me? Likely the latter. Damn my eyes are bad.

I see that. Not sure what to make of it.

[clintc]

The pins are actually small Corby bolts. The handle is elk antler with some great natural “popcorn” texture that provides some traction. To grind the pins flush with the handle material would also result in grinding the “popcorn” off. And so I “texture” the bolt heads to bring them flush with a rotary tool diamond bit - I have done several like this and like it, but perhaps not to everyone’s taste. This blade is S90V. Clint

[ganderblaster]

Gorgeous knife and handle.

[sns2]

Originally Posted by clintc

The pins are actually small Corby bolts. The handle is elk antler with some great natural “popcorn” texture that provides some traction. To grind the pins flush with the handle material would also result in grinding the “popcorn” off. And so I “texture” the bolt heads to bring them flush with a rotary tool diamond bit - I have done several like this and like it, but perhaps not to everyone’s taste. This blade is S90V. Clint

Thanks for the explanation, Clint.

I hear you about losing that texture on those lovely scales. Everything is a tradeoff of one sort or another it seems. And, in the end, the only person's opinion that matters is the guy who ordered it

Of all the steels that you've worked with, which do you find to be the best balance of edge retention, ease of sharpening, and toughness for a skinning application?

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

[sns2]

Clint, would that style of knife lend itself to being pinned like this?

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

[clintc]

Man, steel preference is a huge can of worms and everyone has a different opinion based on experience and certainly other sources on the net. Likely, as with everything, we are far more educated on knife steel properties and edge geometry than any other time in history. But it still boils down to personal preference. I believe most “average” folks really wouldn’t notice a difference between using a high quality blade made from most the “good” steels. As pointed out in this thread, there are lots of factors involved in performance including edge geometry and heat treating a steel to gain all it’s advantages. A knife with poor edge geometry or one not heat treated properly will not perform, no matter the steel type.
If you don’t mind occasionally swiping an edge on a rod or stone to touch an edge up after a hard job like disassembling an elk, I would go with a high quality high carbon blade like W-2 or a “basic” stainless like AEB-L or CPM154. if you want to do multiple critters and not do any edge maintenance, S90V.
And in between are a huge pile of other great steels that also serve equally as well. I personally really like CPM3V for most applications and have used it a lot - holds a great edge and supremely tough. I have read great things about the “new” Magnacut - bought some but have not tried it yet, internet sources indicate it may be the perfect balance for most every type of blade, but again, no personal experience on my part, yet. Clint

[sns2]

Thanks, Clint.

[senderomag]

One custom maker had a YouTube vid if him chopping a 2x4 , cutting carboard , then cutting on deer antler. A few strops and he shaved with it.

[Phil McCracken]

Hi Clint.

First of all, I had the opportunity of seeing many knives that you have fabricated, and frankly, they are awesome!

Started this gig about 3 years ago as a "hobby", and so far, have mostly used 1084 Carbon steel. I know it is not the "best" overall steel out there.

I have a couple of questions for you:

Do you forge your blades, or purchase bars?

If you purchase bars, where do you get them in Canada?

How is the heat treat on CPM3V compared to 1084?

PS: Sorry if I have strayed a little on this very informative thread, but I noticed many did, and I'm glad they did.

...and I don't mind at all!...

[djb1]

A good knife is all about good steel

[senderomag]

There is a ton of graphs and articles on edge retention. If my next maker can work with it I’ll get a blade made from cpm d2. I want to make my own knives eventually.

[Desert Eagle]

I picked up one of the skinners that Clint had posted here. Very happy with it. Looking forward to finding some game to try it out on.

[Athabasca1]

Bumping just to revive thread.

Someone must have bought a nice knife that have not posted a update.

[badbrass]

Originally Posted by clintc

Man, steel preference is a huge can of worms and everyone has a different opinion based on experience and certainly other sources on the net. Likely, as with everything, we are far more educated on knife steel properties and edge geometry than any other time in history. But it still boils down to personal preference. I believe most “average” folks really wouldn’t notice a difference between using a high quality blade made from most the “good” steels. As pointed out in this thread, there are lots of factors involved in performance including edge geometry and heat treating a steel to gain all it’s advantages. A knife with poor edge geometry or one not heat treated properly will not perform, no matter the steel type.
If you don’t mind occasionally swiping an edge on a rod or stone to touch an edge up after a hard job like disassembling an elk, I would go with a high quality high carbon blade like W-2 or a “basic” stainless like AEB-L or CPM154. if you want to do multiple critters and not do any edge maintenance, S90V.
And in between are a huge pile of other great steels that also serve equally as well. I personally really like CPM3V for most applications and have used it a lot - holds a great edge and supremely tough. I have read great things about the “new” Magnacut - bought some but have not tried it yet, internet sources indicate it may be the perfect balance for most every type of blade, but again, no personal experience on my part, yet. Clint

He made me a new knife! I hope to use it soon!

[270hunter]

Originally Posted by badbrass

He made me a new knife! I hope to use it soon!

WOW! That is a beautiful knife sir!

[Pathfinder76]

[Coiloil37]

Well if we aren’t sticking to hunting knives. I finally tracked down a dealer exclusive from a couple years ago and managed to buy one yesterday.





It just needs to find its way across the pond and into my pocket.

[Ken3134]

Originally Posted by Coiloil37

Well if we aren’t sticking to hunting knives. I finally tracked down a dealer exclusive from a couple years ago and managed to buy one yesterday.





It just needs to find its way across the pond and into my pocket.

I just got one of these Spyderco Paramilitary 2's about a week ago, tan micarta with CPM Cruwear steel, havent used it much yet. My first knife with Cruwear steel, it is scary sharp like the Crotts knife, like it so far time will tell. I could definitely see wanting the Cruwear in a fixed blade.

[fishnguy]

Originally Posted by Ken3134

I just got one of these Spyderco Paramilitary 2's about a week ago, tan micarta with CPM Cruwear steel, havent used it much yet. My first knife with Cruwear steel, it is scary sharp like the Crotts knife, like it so far time will tell. I could definitely see wanting the Cruwear in a fixed blade.

From the other thread:

Originally Posted by fishnguy

I currently ”carry” this one:

Cruware is an excellent steel: it’s tough and decent edge retention, at least on par with or superior to D2 (edit: that’d be Dozier’s D2). Don’t see how a guy can go wrong with that.

[senderomag]

I received my clintc knife today. No complaints. It is on par or better than my other customs made by Hatt, Schriener, and Cote

[badbrass]

Originally Posted by senderomag

I received my clintc knife today. No complaints. It is on par or better than my other customs made by Hatt, Schriener, and Cote

Pictures please!

[badbrass]

Originally Posted by 270hunter

WOW! That is a beautiful knife sir!

Thanks! I have pictures of when he put it through his forge, and put through the process of making it a knife.

[senderomag]

Originally Posted by badbrass

Pictures please!

My Clintc knife is at the bottom of page 21.

[spurly]

My Clint C knife

[fishnguy]

Neat process pics, badbrass!

Originally Posted by spurly

My Clint C knife

What kind of steel? Looks almost like bushcraft more than a hunting knife. Cool, nonetheless!

[leeelmer]

My father-inlaw gifted me a full set of large Japanese water stones.
His business is professional sharpening, of knifes, sheers, scissors. Mostly for hair dressers and such, has a bunch of very nice machines.
But these japanese water stones, once a guy gets on to using them, produce a edge that is incredible.
Though for the average guy the cost of the water stones is most likely worth several very high end knifes.
He also made me a few strops with leather on one side and linen on the other for the final polish of the edge.
I have sharpened a few of my hunting knives with them, and the difference compared to a wicked edge, or any other system is night and day

[Coiloil37]

Originally Posted by leeelmer

My father-inlaw gifted me a full set of large Japanese water stones.
His business is professional sharpening, of knifes, sheers, scissors. Mostly for hair dressers and such, has a bunch of very nice machines.
But these japanese water stones, once a guy gets on to using them, produce a edge that is incredible.
Though for the average guy the cost of the water stones is most likely worth several very high end knifes.
He also made me a few strops with leather on one side and linen on the other for the final polish of the edge.
I have sharpened a few of my hunting knives with them, and the difference compared to a wicked edge, or any other system is night and day

Congrats on the stones.

As for the rest of what you said, it depends on the steel your sharpening. The abrasives in your water stones are softer then several of the carbides in modern super steels but specifically vanadium carbides. So while water stones work exceptionally well for honing a carbon steel straight razor and are more then capable of sharpening “normal” blade steels they’re not a good choice for most modern steels.

I owned a set of naniwa super stones a decade ago from 400 through to 8k. They were good for certain tasks and if I shaved with a straight razor or only owned steels that they could sharpen I would probably still own them.
If you produced a better edge with them then a different system it’s a consequence of your technique and the composition of the steel your sharpening. They are no better at sharpening then any other stone and for some steels they’re inferior.

A quick article of water stones against vanadium carbides. He was testing to see if the carbides would tear out. He chose to deburr with a water stone after he came off the diamond. The visual is here to see how the carbides were cut with diamond and how the matrix around the carbides was abraded by the water stone without the carbides being cut. That isn’t the same as saying that was a preferred method of deburring an apex. There are many good ways to remove the foil burr after coming off a diamond stone. He just wanted to leave the carbides standing proud and see if they would tear out.


https://scienceofsharp.com/2019/11/0...es-in-maxamet/


Should also point out. Cutting carbides is important in all steel as “sharp” requires an apex around 1/10 of a micron across. A PM steel like maxamet has carbides in the 1-2 micron size but D2 has carbides around 20 microns. After you’ve looked at those photos in the article, imagine if the carbides were 10-20X larger and weren’t being cut on the stone.

[Pathfinder76]

Time for a bump.

I received notification yesterday that the knives I have coming are all ready. The top two from Dan Crotts and the bottom one from a local maker and member of this forum. Both will get used this spring by myself and my bear hunting pard (a taxidermist). Hopefully three bears lose their hide to these.