Grim Reapers

[Kurt505]

Originally Posted by brendan's dad

I think it would be safer to insults someone's wife or girlfriend as opposed to bashing their favorite broadhead! Oh by the way I hate grim reapers... not sure if they open up but the picture on the package scares me!

I think you're right.

[SCHOOCH]

They have always opened for me on everything ive shot.....of course when its man made and designed a failure could of course happen, never has happened to me so im good with the reaper.

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Originally Posted by KBF

Where did Ya hit him? I'm also curious who actually shoots a $15 broadhead for practice.

Personally regardless of price...[mine are 18.00 a piece]...I believe everyone that screws a broadhead on an arrow intended to hunt with them should shot them...not just one but even three...

shooting three radomly screwed on an arrow can tell you a lot...sometimes if bow is border tuned one may have to index head blades to vanes...or even in between pending on sweet spot...

if all three impact a foot high and a foot right you have issues...if only one impacts a foot high and a foot right and two are in X...inspect and correct, know why that particualr head did that...if all three impact in the X ...you da man go hunting and best of luck...

I will even go as far as calling a bow hunter unethical if they screw on broadheads friday night and go hunting saturday morning...

If a head even worked last year ...it doesnt mean it will work last year...

Blades for most heads only run around 20.00 for three heads...if used for practice assure tip is sharp or not blunted or rounded...fine sandpaper can restore that to new...

Some can be hand re-sharpened...personally I leave the three practice heads for just that...


On any Mechanicals...I refer to Murphys Law..."Anything mechanical if used will eventually fail"
lol
JMHO

Neil

[residentguide]

I hate all expandable broad heads but have used in the past and grim reapers do open as they are suppose to. The thing I don't like about exspandables is they close when working them selves out if it is not a pass threw and they are not as good IMO when a quartering shot it taken.

[residentguide]

Originally Posted by L.O.S.T.Arrow

Personally regardless of price...[mine are 18.00 a piece]...I believe everyone that screws a broadhead on an arrow intended to hunt with them should shot them...not just one but even three...

shooting three radomly screwed on an arrow can tell you a lot...sometimes if bow is border tuned one may have to index head blades to vanes...or even in between pending on sweet spot...

if all three impact a foot high and a foot right you have issues...if only one impacts a foot high and a foot right and two are in X...inspect and correct, know why that particualr head did that...if all three impact in the X ...you da man go hunting and best of luck...

I will even go as far as calling a bow hunter unethical if they screw on broadheads friday night and go hunting saturday morning...

If a head even worked last year ...it doesnt mean it will work last year...

Blades for most heads only run around 20.00 for three heads...if used for practice assure tip is sharp or not blunted or rounded...fine sandpaper can restore that to new...

Some can be hand re-sharpened...personally I leave the three practice heads for just that...


On any Mechanicals...I refer to Murphys Law..."Anything mechanical if used will eventually fail"
lol
JMHO

Neil

exactly. Could not have said it any better.

[NIKON]

Tried them. Not happy with the performance. 2 arrows didnt open.
Switching to Montecs.

[jcrayford]

Originally Posted by C Taylor

I shot a blue wildebeest that only one blade opened. I won't shoot them again. Px2 or carbon steel, in a properly tuned bow fly just like field points an I will never have to wonder if the blades will open. If one out of a thousand don't open that's one too many for me.

So based on this ^ nothing mechanical should ever be used in archery tackle? No more compounds then?

I'm not trying to be argumentative, but in all the shots I've taken with my mechs (yes, GR are one of the BH designs in my quiver) I've only had 2 not pass through and both were my fault with a bad shot placement. However! With both shots the animals were recovered and the blades opened on entry (and would've been open on exit as well).

I've taken the time to really fine tune my bow to shoot fixed, but because of the possibility of a bad shot happening because of 1) adrenaline pumping and not completing my form follow through or 2) wind planing or 3) deflection from an open, wider BH design or 4) any other factors, I choose to have more confidence in a setup that will allow some degree of forgiveness for my part. This is why I made the switch to mechs long ago and have had great luck with the designs that I shoot.

Mechs aren't for everyone. That is the truth, plain and simple. However claiming that one BH design just simply doesn't work is a little arrogant. If the BH design doesn't work, I would like to think that the brand would die off due to lack of customer support. But because GR are widely stocked on shelves in almost every outdoor store I've been into, I would have to say that they do indeed work as intended.

Originally Posted by J.B.

Never had a problem with grims opening. Taken over a dozen head of game and they have done absolutely everything I could want from a broadhead. I always test all my heads to make sure they open easily before putting them on a hunting arrow. If the order of the small ring and spring that sit inside the collar is mixed up, it wont open - have to watch out for that when replacing blades. If using a dull broadhead for practice it may sieze up after a couple dozen shots on target - replace all components when putting new blades on. New broadheads - never had an issue with opening.

^This *could* solve a lot of issues and I've even noticed that when I put mine back together that this is the case. Change things up in a design and for sure it won't work as intended....

I have negative feelings towards other BH brands & bow brands but I try to keep those feelings bottled up inside as what I negatively think about brand X, shouldn't sway someone from trying brand X.

J.

[Mike_W]

I am shooting grim reaper razor tips 100 grain 1-3/8" cutting diameter.
I have yet to shoot an animal with them however what I have seen it practice I have no comcerns, proper setup install and testing is nessasary as per the instructions that they come with but my money is on the few fails are due to improper install and the shooter not bothering with the instructions.

[remmy300]

No complaints here on GR's

I'd say these guys would attest to how well they work... well if they could.

[KBF]

Originally Posted by L.O.S.T.Arrow

Personally regardless of price...[mine are 18.00 a piece]...I believe everyone that screws a broadhead on an arrow intended to hunt with them should shot them...not just one but even three...

shooting three radomly screwed on an arrow can tell you a lot...sometimes if bow is border tuned one may have to index head blades to vanes...or even in between pending on sweet spot...

if all three impact a foot high and a foot right you have issues...if only one impacts a foot high and a foot right and two are in X...inspect and correct, know why that particualr head did that...if all three impact in the X ...you da man go hunting and best of luck...

I will even go as far as calling a bow hunter unethical if they screw on broadheads friday night and go hunting saturday morning...

If a head even worked last year ...it doesnt mean it will work last year...

Blades for most heads only run around 20.00 for three heads...if used for practice assure tip is sharp or not blunted or rounded...fine sandpaper can restore that to new...

Some can be hand re-sharpened...personally I leave the three practice heads for just that...


On any Mechanicals...I refer to Murphys Law..."Anything mechanical if used will eventually fail"
lol
JMHO

Neil

I guess I just pictured in my mind somebody out on the rang practicing with only the broad head. Yes I take a few shots from time to time with one to be sure all is good. I agree Neil, things do change from year to year.

[astepanuk]

Here is the Doe I took this yr 51 Yards complete pass through.

Nothing beets the Reaper

[JohnB]

Grim worked on this guy. I do like the Spitfire's better as I had one blade on one of the Grim's that didn't want to stay closed.

[*BigSexyHunter*]

Anybody here shoot a swhacker??

[Lerrooy]

Got my doe this year with my grim reapers. 32 yard shot. Complete pass through, and broke one rib on the way out.

Going to the range all the time to practice with them, they open all the time. Just take em apart, keep em clean, and properly put back together as others have said

[Alberta Bigbore]

Ive told myself that i wont use a reaper head more than once. 1 per kill.... used heads go to
Practice in the rhinoblock , woodland buck, and coyote calling this winter.

[astepanuk]

Sure tell sign the reaper opened is the paint will be scrapped off the little cup I had my doubts once then realized the little black cup had a mark showing yhr blade had opened fully and found my dead buck a few short steps away love the reaper.

[MagnumMan]

Reapers have never failed me, but they have all been recovered in the closed position even though both sides of the hide have the perfect full open slice. When they hit the ground the blades swing back to the closed state. its easy to try..open one up and drop it on a rubber mat or the grass they will swing shut.

[Alberta Bigbore]

Originally Posted by MagnumMan

Reapers have never failed me, but they have all been recovered in the closed position even though both sides of the hide have the perfect full open slice. When they hit the ground the blades swing back to the closed state. its easy to try..open one up and drop it on a rubber mat or the grass they will swing shut.

The one of two that flew through my moose... hit the ground and cut the dirt... pulling out of dirt they couldnt close.... blade channels full of dirt lol

[Pudelpointer]

First, let me say that I am not a fan of mechanical broadheads.

However, many people love them and are successful with them, and the designs available today are light years ahead of the first mechanicals from 25 years ago.

I do not understand why you would "target practice" with a mechanical head that is supposed to shoot the same as field points? I fully understand that you need to test them on your arrows, which is why they make practice heads.

You aren't shooting wood shafts that may have spine variations that cause differences between arrows, you are shooting <.002 variance carbon. Any arrow that has messed up vanes should be observable from repeated shooting with field points. Shoot that practice head on each arrow, then screw on your hunting tips and go hunting.

Even the strongest mechanicals are going to be damaged by shooting them even one time into a target block, never mind repeated practice! No wonder some of you have heads that don't open.

[jcrayford]

Originally Posted by Pudelpointer

First, let me say that I am not a fan of mechanical broadheads.

However, many people love them and are successful with them, and the designs available today are light years ahead of the first mechanicals from 25 years ago.

I do not understand why you would "target practice" with a mechanical head that is supposed to shoot the same as field points? I fully understand that you need to test them on your arrows, which is why they make practice heads.

You aren't shooting wood shafts that may have spine variations that cause differences between arrows, you are shooting <.002 variance carbon. Any arrow that has messed up vanes should be observable from repeated shooting with field points. Shoot that practice head on each arrow, then screw on your hunting tips and go hunting.

Even the strongest mechanicals are going to be damaged by shooting them even one time into a target block, never mind repeated practice! No wonder some of you have heads that don't open.

^Pudel, when I first briefly read over your comments, my hackles stood up.... But then re-reading it calmed me down some....

The question I have for you is based on your comment above that I've highlighted^^^^ I'm only assuming that you shoot fixed, but do you not verify your POI with the fixed? While a practice head is (in theory) a very good indication of where a BH would impact, a real BH will show actual impact/flight characteristics. So, do you not sacrifice one of your BH's to be sure?

The practice head that is included with my GR is not the same exact shape/design of the hunting head. This is why I shoot an actual hunting head and verify where they fly. I shoot Grim Reaper RazorCuts. The practice head is built like a Grim Reaper Razortip. There are small differences between the practice and hunting head - enough that I sacrifice a hunting head to be sure.

Maybe I'm just too a-retentive to let it slide? LOL.

J.

[AbAngler]

I went from fixed to Grim this year. 15 yards, right under me, around 285fps. Exit wasn't a large hole, but his heart had a nice slice through it, so I would think it opened. I was slightly concerned at first though, having read this thread. I knew I had hit, but he didn't really react to it until he dropped. Just kept slowly walking. I will use them again.

[Mike_W]

Just look at the design how couldn't they open?

[Prdtrgttr]

Originally Posted by Mike_W

Just look at the design how couldn't they open?

Precisely! I have been using the Wasp Jak Hammers for years, which is virtually the same design. They always open. They hit hard hard and leave devastating holes. These fold over heads, I use the 1 3/4' Jaks, are deadly.
One other feature that's nice about this style of broadhead, is the razor sharp edge is not exposed.

[Pudelpointer]

Originally Posted by jcrayford

^Pudel, when I first briefly read over your comments, my hackles stood up.... But then re-reading it calmed me down some....

The question I have for you is based on your comment above that I've highlighted^^^^ I'm only assuming that you shoot fixed, but do you not verify your POI with the fixed? While a practice head is (in theory) a very good indication of where a BH would impact, a real BH will show actual impact/flight characteristics. So, do you not sacrifice one of your BH's to be sure?

The practice head that is included with my GR is not the same exact shape/design of the hunting head. This is why I shoot an actual hunting head and verify where they fly. I shoot Grim Reaper RazorCuts. The practice head is built like a Grim Reaper Razortip. There are small differences between the practice and hunting head - enough that I sacrifice a hunting head to be sure.

Maybe I'm just too a-retentive to let it slide? LOL.

J.

Yes, I only shoot fixed blade heads. Broad heads only get used one time on game, then get retired to practice. I run 3 standard broadheads for practice, and switch to 3 never shot heads for hunting.

When I shot trad for hunting, I used Magnus or Zwickey delta style heads. These I shot at targets, and hand sharpened religiously before hunting.



Honestly, I would rather newer bow hunters (and some who should damn well know better) use mechanicals that they have only shot the practice head into a target, than for them to shoot them repeatedly into a target, give them a touch with their thumb, put them back in their quiver and go hunting.

Every time I hear a bow hunter talking about tracking an animal for more than 250 yards, I assume a) it wasn't hit in the lungs, or b) they were not using a surgically razor sharp broadhead.

[High_N_Wide]

I tried Grim Reapers, my experience was they shot o.k. and I agree they should open. Where I had an issue was shooting them into my block to confirm arrow flight. Some of the blades were bent after only one shot. This to me was a concern so I never tried them again or used them in the field.

Not to derail the thread but I have been shooting Ulmer Edge and they fly as good as anything I have shot, open easily and lock open. Took my antelope at 66 yds this year. Frontal shot through the heart and out the back quarter and through the leg. You couldn't ask for better performance.

Just my thoughts.

HnW

[Lefty-Canuck]

My guess is they got bent when you pulled them from your target.

LC

[H380]

No complaints here winger, my mule bucks lung and liver looked like they went thru a blender . They open good for me .

[Bonescreek]

Ive, been watching this post for a while, the last few days.

Its all about fixed or mech heads OR shot placement.

50 x 50. by the average reply.

I shot a buck at 25 yards with fixed, 63lbs. 28".

The buck was fast walking nose to the ground at 25 yards level.
I took the shot, leading on him as if to swing on duck with a shotgun.
From right to left I moved the bow, when focused the 20 yard pin behind
his shoulder I squeaded the trigger and held for follow through and not to
drop the bow.

So i stopped the swing and held the bow. (follow through as per target).
The buck kept moving.
I hit both lungs just at the diaphapme, some stomach intestine fluid and some
blood on the arrow shaft.

15' after the inpact 4x6" bright red blood with lots of bubbles.
35' and another 5"x7" patch of bright red blood with bubbles.
All totaled 225' of blood trail then dead stop at a cedar tree across the
logging road that he ran.

Left right ahead ?

No more blood, nothing.

[Bonescreek]

I found my arrow the next day. right where I aimed.
Pass through.
Buried 1/3 in the bank streight in no angle, no delfection from
branches etc.

I hit where I aimed but was too far back.
I stopped my lead, when I hit the trigger.

In hind sight I should have stopped the buck with a bleat call.
or something like that.

It's all hind sight now.
Hind sight sucks.

[Bonescreek]

Guess if anything I can say is..

Fixed or Mech. Yes shot placement is the of the top most
importance.

So as you can see by my reply above I am no Fred Bear by any
means.

I'm just an average bow hunter like you and like me.

And that's all I mean to be.