Which options would you choose for a Lund Rebel Sport 1650?

[Bobby B.]

I want to upgrade from my 14' Naden to a boat with a windshield and steering wheel. I'm thinking the Rebel 1650 is all the boat I need. However, I lack the experience and knowledge required to select meaningful options. Is anyone is willing to provide some insight of what options are worth the $$$?

I'm definitely going with the maximum HP, a 90. I'm thinking full canvass to protect the interior of my boat while it is docked. I also think a bow cover and travel cover are essential. Are they?

Bobby

[HookedOnKokanee]

Here's a tip that I learned the hard way!

We have had our boat (14' lund) since 1993, and in the last 10 years the boat went slower, and slower and slower.

After a substantial investment all things pointed at the motor, which is a mercury (1993).

How ever the compression is on spec, tuned up and carb rebuilt every year, professionally.

Even the local dealer, says, "it is time to do a power transplant", after all your motor is built in 1993.

This boat used to go 18 mph, and in the last 5 years it only goes 6.8 mph, with only two people and usual fishing equipment.

So I started shopping engines 25 hp to 30 hp, used (if you can find one) $1,800.00 or a new evinrude for about $4,000.

So here's the update, this boat has not been able to get on plane for almost 5 years .... and for those of you who know where I am going with this ... is caused by the following:

After searching on the internet ..... days and months ... by Canadian Law boats need to have "closed/open cell foam" for safety purposes. This foam is important because it allows the boat not to sink when it is swamped with water to the gunnels, that way you have something to hold on to!

However this foam over time will absorbs water for all sources. This foam has a bad habit, once water goes in water does not come out, but keeps absorbing water like a unpopable balloon!

In the worst case, when the foam has expanded so much, it starts to rot the floor.

Even if you have the boat tipped up, when not in use, with all the rain, the foam is still absorbing water. This foam becomes like a very dense black hole, is super heavy per square foot.

The professional have indicated that our boat weighs between 800 to 1000 more than it should because of the saturated foam.

With all that said, my advice to you is to have a complete cover for the boat, from stern to bow ... that way you will never have a problem.

There are two companies that specialize in these repairs. One in Alberta and one in Manitoba. My estimated for new floor (carpet) and foam is from $2,000 to $3,000.

So get the coverage and you have saved $3,000 before you have bought your new boat!

So if your boat has been slowing down every year, my quess is look at the foam and not the motor!

Hope this helps someone ..... cheers doyle ....

[skidderman]

Originally Posted by HookedOnKokanee

Here's a tip that I learned the hard way!

We have had our boat (14' lund) since 1993, and in the last 10 years the boat went slower, and slower and slower.

After a substantial investment all things pointed at the motor, which is a mercury (1993).

How ever the compression is on spec, tuned up and carb rebuilt every year, professionally.

Even the local dealer, says, "it is time to do a power transplant", after all your motor is built in 1993.

This boat used to go 18 mph, and in the last 5 years it only goes 6.8 mph, with only two people and usual fishing equipment.

So I started shopping engines 25 hp to 30 hp, used (if you can find one) $1,800.00 or a new evinrude for about $4,000.

So here's the update, this boat has not been able to get on plane for almost 5 years .... and for those of you who know where I am going with this ... is caused by the following:

After searching on the internet ..... days and months ... by Canadian Law boats need to have "closed/open cell foam" for safety purposes. This foam is important because it allows the boat not to sink when it is swamped with water to the gunnels, that way you have something to hold on to!

However this foam over time will absorbs water for all sources. This foam has a bad habit, once water goes in water does not come out, but keeps absorbing water like a unpopable balloon!

In the worst case, when the foam has expanded so much, it starts to rot the floor.

Even if you have the boat tipped up, when not in use, with all the rain, the foam is still absorbing water. This foam becomes like a very dense black hole, is super heavy per square foot.

The professional have indicated that our boat weighs between 800 to 1000 more than it should because of the saturated foam.

With all that said, my advice to you is to have a complete cover for the boat, from stern to bow ... that way you will never have a problem.

There are two companies that specialize in these repairs. One in Alberta and one in Manitoba. My estimated for new floor (carpet) and foam is from $2,000 to $3,000.

So get the coverage and you have saved $3,000 before you have bought your new boat!

So if your boat has been slowing down every year, my quess is look at the foam and not the motor!

Hope this helps someone ..... cheers doyle ....

You are correct. Foam absorbs water big time. It's a pain to remove as well.

[curtis_rak]

I agree with the mooring cover and I would also add;
-gravel guard for the trailer/hull
-a rain/bimini top if it doesn't already have one

Good for you on deciding on max HP. The first boat i bought I didn't do this and I regretted it.

[cube]

Originally Posted by Bobby B.

I want to upgrade from my 14' Naden to a boat with a windshield and steering wheel. I'm thinking the Rebel 1650 is all the boat I need. However, I lack the experience and knowledge required to select meaningful options. Is anyone is willing to provide some insight of what options are worth the $$$?

I'm definitely going with the maximum HP, a 90. I'm thinking full canvass to protect the interior of my boat while it is docked. I also think a bow cover and travel cover are essential. Are they?

Bobby

If I were making a choice I would get the bow cover and travel/moorage cover. I have full canvass as well but only put it up 2 - 3 times a year which might not be worth it for you.

After that if you don't already have a sonar system that would be my next purchase. If your getting a new one get one with mapping and gps.

Then a trolling motor of some kind gas or electric. The motor from your 14 footer will probably do here. If your getting a new gas, 4 hp will be lots (I would not go over 6 hp if you want to use it for walleye fishing) . If your getting electric get at least 80 lb thrust 24 volt.

There are other things like rod holders, rod storage racks that are not that expensive and can always make great birthday and Christmas gifts too.

Then a rock guard, if you plan on gravel roads especially.

Good Luck

[Jamie Black R/T]

Id take a serious look at the Impact 1775 at that price point. A little more for a lot more boat.

A few options you wont find on the rebel are the center rod locker. Front and rear live wells and the chine width to make it a stable platform for a few people.

[EZM]

I have never used my mooring cover. It's either the snap down travel cover, or the full canopy. Having the bow cover is a good idea as mentioned for keeping water out.

Lund moved to closed cell, yet permeable foam, at a higher expense a few years ago and it is the only boat that I am aware that uses that - so it wouldn't be as bad now in terms of retaining water over any extended period of time.

I would definitely get the pro-track bases. You can add rod holders, additional cleats, ram mounts, etc... and move them anywhere on your boat without drilling a single hole.

I would also suggest a 80lb Minnkota bow mount (24v) electric trolling motor. I use the auto anchor quite a bit when jigging lakers or walleyes. Set the electronic anchor, with a touch of the button, and if they are not there, pulse motor over another 20 feet, set it again with one touch and keep moving and anchoring without putting your rod down. No more anchor yanking !!!

It is, obviously, also a great way to slow troll as well.

On board Charger is a very nice to have. If you go with a 24v get you will need a 3 bank conditioning charger (don't buy a cheap one) .... all of Lund's chargers are conditioning chargers and won't hurt your cranking battery.

Get a spare tire for the trailer, load / side rails and a swing tongue.

I'd also consider upgraded seats to a pro ride with air ride pedestals - they are just so much nicer when it's choppy out there or for sitting extended periods of time (if your budget allows for it).

Another couple items .... I would do 100% for sure ....

1) When you get it home, and before you install your sonars - run a dedicated separate electrical line to a dedicated fuse block under the dash, power on/off from your master power, and hook all your sonars and stuff up to the block with the fuses in there. I would not run all of my electronics to the factory panel. Keeps all the power clean, safe and easy to diagnose and change fuses. > 50% of the problems people have with interference, poor signals, weird problems is due to the power supply.

2) Attach a transom board (transducer board )to your transom to install your transducers. Do not screw into your hull directly to mount your hardware. The transom board is attached with 2 stainless self tapping screws, bedded in waterproof sealant and is the last 2 holes you will ever have to drill into your boat. You attach your transducer(s) to the poly block with shorter screws that are less thajn the thickness of the poly board - so feel free to move or adjust them instead of drilling holes in your boat time after time after time.

Chances are good you will want to adjust your transducer so it gives you a proper reading, away form interference, etc... to give you a clean and consistent signal.

Seal the board around the screw holes and another bead around the perimeter to prevent any chance of leak. Apply a blob on the inside of the boat where the heads penetrate the hull for added security.

Any time to ever change your transducer (upgrade your unit, transducer goes bad, gets crashed etc...) you just re-drill into the polymer block and not through the entire hull.

[huntsfurfish]

Good advice EZM.

[Bobby B.]

Originally Posted by Jamie Black R/T

Id take a serious look at the Impact 1775 at that price point. A little more for a lot more boat.

A few options you wont find on the rebel are the center rod locker. Front and rear live wells and the chine width to make it a stable platform for a few people.

Dieter is pricing me on the Impact as well. IIRC, he said there's a 7G difference over the Rebel. The 1750 Rebel has a center rod locker. I can see the benefit of the large center rod locker whatever the model of boat.

Bobby

[Bobby B.]

EZM, I was hoping you'd chime in. Thanks for the info.

Bobby

[Jamie Black R/T]

Originally Posted by Bobby B.

Dieter is pricing me on the Impact as well. IIRC, he said there's a 7G difference over the Rebel. The 1750 Rebel has a center rod locker. I can see the benefit of the large center rod locker whatever the model of boat.

Bobby

The rod locker is an awesome feature. Leaves the side lockers for gear.

The rear livewell i mentioned isnt a deal breaker for most i would imagine. Its real nice when fishing tournaments though.

The chine width makes a BIG difference IMO. Ive fished a couple big guys out of a narrow rebel and the stability is unmatched on the wider hulls.

Sorry didnt mean to derail. I was going to come back with some ideas for rigging like you asked for but see EZM pretty much nailed it so no need

[TROLLER]

Don't even consider a trolling motor that is 4 or 5 hp. Had a 5 on my 16 and any wind you will not be able to control it.

9.9 minimum is the best and will also get you back to the dock if your big motor runs into some problems.

Had a full travel cover for years but now just put on a bow. My boat is always garaged so rain is never a big issue. If you are storing outside make sure the cover fits tight and the poles are in so the rain will fall off.

[EZM]

One other item ...... get a boarding ladder, even if you are not doing water sports. Getting back into the boat in an emergency (or just to take a quick dip) is much easier with the ladder.

Post some pics when you get your boat .... it should be awesome.

Here is a few pictures of a couple of the items I suggested ....

a) The transom boards to mount you transducers ( I have the SI lower and to the center of the hull on the less turbulent side of the prop) and the other (standard transducer) opposite and mounted higher.

b) The rod holders on the sliding Lund pro tracks .... I have since mounted scotty's to the pro track bases - both work with them.

[Bobby B.]

The reason why is was going for the Rebel 1650 is a friend recommended I don't go with too large a boat if I intend on doing any fishing own my own. Does this make sense?

Bobby

[huntsfurfish]

Originally Posted by Bobby B.

The reason why is was going for the Rebel 1650 is a friend recommended I don't go with too large a boat if I intend on doing any fishing own my own. Does this make sense?

Bobby

I know more than a few guys that launch 18-21 foot boats by them selves. 2 people always easier though.

[PerchBuster]

I too have many of the suggested items on this board and they are all great to have especially rock guard, rod holders, on board charging system, side/down imaging sonar, GPS, Digger anchor, heavy duty travel cover, but don't forget to equip with a Transom Saver to support your 90 Outboard during travel. I highly recommend having one. Self inflating life jackets are awesome. I also have Splashguards on the Stern for back trolling which is great. My next upgrades will be Minn Kota bow mount with I-pilot, I-link and a couple drift socks. Good luck, they are all must haves really in my book and you can't go wrong with any of them.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by huntsfurfish

I know more than a few guys that launch 18-21 foot boats by them selves. 2 people always easier though.

Launching is easy ..... I tie the rope from the bow to the tie down in the bed of my truck. Let the boat slide right off, get out untie the rope and walk it around to the dock or shore and tie her up as you go park the trailer.

Loading a bigger boat, on the other hand, can be tricky when you are climbing over and down the bow and trying to step onto a wet trailer with short legs and a fat butt. The boat is untied - so you don't have time to feel sorry for yourself or nurse your wounds while you pick yourself up out of the water, untangle your feet from the trailer as the boat drifts away ....... lol.

Lucky I'm agile like a panther and this would never happen to me.

[PerchBuster]

Loading a bigger boat, on the other hand, can be tricky when you are climbing over and down the bow and trying to step onto a wet trailer with short legs and a fat butt. The boat is untied - so you don't have time to feel sorry for yourself or nurse your wounds while you pick yourself up out of the water, untangle your feet from the trailer as the boat drifts away ....... lol.

Lucky I'm agile like a panther and this would never happen to me.[/QUOTE] too funny ...must have seen it in a movie lol Good one!

[ontario gunner]

Originally Posted by Jamie Black R/T

Id take a serious look at the Impact 1775 at that price point. A little more for a lot more boat.

Couldn't agree more.. I bought mine at a boat show in ontario 2 years ago. I went there intending to buy a rebel 1650 with a 60 4 stroke on it,, right next to it was an impact 1775 with a 115 opti on it,,, price difference was $1700,, was a no brainer!

I launch that impact by myself 70% of the time,, no issues it's manageable.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by PerchBuster

Loading a bigger boat, on the other hand, can be tricky when you are climbing over and down the bow and trying to step onto a wet trailer with short legs and a fat butt. The boat is untied - so you don't have time to feel sorry for yourself or nurse your wounds while you pick yourself up out of the water, untangle your feet from the trailer as the boat drifts away ....... lol.

Lucky I'm agile like a panther and this would never happen to me.

too funny ...must have seen it in a movie lol Good one![/QUOTE]

Wet, Bleeding and Embarrassed .... caught the boat though .....only had to go in chest deep that time .... lol

My Lund Tyee's bow sits a lot higher than my last boat ....... should have thought of that distance in relation to the length of my legs ......

I'm pretty sure the sandals didn't help either.

The audience loved it ....... I was cool as a cucumber pulling the boat in, winding her up, and getting in my truck like nothing happened, all cool ...... trying to act natural.

On my way out gave the ladies the wink and gun .......

[huntsfurfish]

Bobby B
If you put an Ulterra(minn Kota) bow mount motor with ipilot or ipilot link on the boat unloading would be simple.

Maybe someone can repost the link for him.

[bobalong]

You have already had some great suggestions, I just have a couple more. I would add a small magnetic tool holder, a small item, but handy and keeps tools off the floor and allows easy and quick access.

If you like trolling with your rods in the holders I would also look at the Folbe rod holders. You can hook set right out of the holder. Scotty makes a great product and I use some of their product but I find their quick release brackets (the Orca) a bit stiffer than the Folbe. Although the Folbe company suggests you use two hands to release the rod, with a bit of practice it is very easy to release them with just one hand.

Tool Holder on the left


When I have the top up, I use a rod extension

[Bobby B.]

Thanks everyone for all the helpful suggestions.

If the price difference between the Rebel 1650 and the Impact 1775 is only $1700, I'll step up to the Impact for sure.

Time for another visit to Barry Jay's. Looking at boats gets me pumped and I start to imagine being out on the lakes catching fish.

Bobby

[Winch101]

Every time I look at a rebel I buy something else .

Before you commit ...get a firm price in Alberta on the

1650 rebel .....then call Kevin's marine in Sask and get a price

On A 1675 Impact . . I'm not saying buy it in Sask but 7 G is a lot

That's Alberta pricing .....were still living the dream here .


Better yet ......

Kevins website today ........rebel xl sport 90 -4strk.

Impact 1675 ....sport 90 4strk ........$1700 difference

No brainer ...
Cost me $ 250 for gas from Cal to go pick up at Kevins That included lunch and breakfast Guaranteed rigged right .

[Sea Hawk]

the transducer boards are a great idea.Just remember that you will be drilling holes in a brand new boat. I myself refuse to drill any holes below the waterline, therefore my transducer boards are longer and extend up the transom and are mounted above the waterline.I had these on my old boat which I sold or I would post a photo.

[Bobby B.]

What's everyone's thoughts on the optional aft flip up seats? Seems like a good idea.

Bobby

[EZM]

Originally Posted by Sea Hawk

the transducer boards are a great idea.Just remember that you will be drilling holes in a brand new boat. I myself refuse to drill any holes below the waterline, therefore my transducer boards are longer and extend up the transom and are mounted above the waterline.I had these on my old boat which I sold or I would post a photo.

Very good advice ..... if you can avoid any holes, and don't mind using a larger piece of transom board - I would do it.

The other often overlooked minor detail (and one I'm surprised many people drilling holes in your boat don't know) is using the right material for the screw to prevent premature corrosion due to a galvanic reaction.

You can't just go drilling holes into your aluminum boat, particularly below the waterline, without considering the long term consequences.

My screws had a low reactive nickel coating (not 100% sure exactly what it was) but the screws themselves were non corrosive (stainless I assume underneath maybe). The screws were about $2 a piece, but it will take 200 years before they corrode due to the galvanic reaction.

The guys also applied a insulative paste, when affixing the screws.

I spent an extra $15 bucks to make sure it was done right. I'm glad I did.

Most guy don't, and most guys drilling into your boat, have no idea. The good news is most guys won't have any major issues - but after 8-10 years a little leak slowly gets bigger and bigger over time.

Prevent the issue by doing it right ......

95% of the boats out there are just drilled, screwed with any old screw and caulked and have no issues until years down the road ........ but 5% is too high of a risk for me when $15 is the solution on my $50K boat.

[ontario gunner]

Originally Posted by Winch101

Every time I look at a rebel I buy something else .

Before you commit ...get a firm price in Alberta on the

1650 rebel .....then call Kevin's marine in Sask and get a price

On A 1675 Impact . . I'm not saying buy it in Sask but 7 G is a lot

That's Alberta pricing .....were still living the dream here .


Better yet ......

Kevins website today ........rebel xl sport 90 -4strk.

Impact 1675 ....sport 90 4strk ........$1700 difference

No brainer ...
Cost me $ 250 for gas from Cal to go pick up at Kevins That included lunch and breakfast Guaranteed rigged right .

Wow I haven't really looked at pricing since I bought my boat,, I'm floored! When I bought mine 2 years ago this weekend. 1650 rebels were 15500, I got my 1775 impact for 17200+ tax. I had to outfit it at that price,, which ran another 3 grand...

You might want to go on kijiji ontario and do a search for lunds.. It's show time there, deals are there to be had. Have it shipped across country or go pick it up... Tell them you will only pay alberta sales tax... It will still save you money and get you more bang for your buck!

[ROA]

Here's my take. If you are going to be worried about things like the 2 holes for a transducer why buy a light duty riveted boat with glue between the seams and a bunch of live well fittings through the hull? Seriously with my Lund the only thing that didn't leak was the transducer mounting screws. I had rivets, bulk heads, seams and hoses leak. Don't even think about pulling it up on a rocky shore or bumping the dock with the side it will dent up so easy you will be amazed. To thin and to soft of a grade of aluminum. Lund? Never again. They are light duty and not built to take the abuse of years of fishing, and this goes for pretty much all the other popular "consumer" level brands as well. Nothing but heavy gauge welded for me now days.

As for the 1650 Rebel specifically, the windshield is to far back, this gives to much room up front not enough behind. Also with the 60 it doesn't plane out worth a **** with 3 guys due to everyone sitting way to far back.

Probably lots of Lund fans on here, I was too until I owned one for quite a few years.

[Robmcleod82]

I run the scotty Orca rod holders on my boat and really like them, the folbes are great as well (never used them but know lots of guys that swear by them) I have the transom seats for my boat as I thought I would want them but after a few trips out I never ended up installing them because they would be in the way so much of the time. Im running a Kingfisher Falcon 1825. Ive had it one season but Im still in the process of rigging it up, the next major upgrades are Raymarine A78 finder, a couple tool/lure caddys, and a set of rock guards and loading poles for the trailer. Make sure you get the full cover and I would get a full roof with sides if its an option, its nice to get out of the sun when its 30 plus out.