Do we have a boat trailer expert?

BBC0 · #1 08-09-2009, 01:10 PM

I purchased a 14' Lund Rebel in the spring. It came with a EZ-loader trailer. I have trouble loading and unloading the boat. For the boat to float off the trailer, it has to be so far into the water that the back end of the vehicle is submerged and the exhaust pipe too.
This trailer has 13" wheeels and leaf springs. Then the boat is on it, it is chest high, much higher than others I have seen. The axle sits beneath the leaf springs, help in place by 'U' bolts. I could lower the whole thing a bit by purchasing smaller wheels and tires but I hate to as these are in like new condition.
I am wondering if I can mount the axle above the springs, and still use the 'U' bolts to secure it in place? Any ideas?

Walleyes · #2 08-09-2009, 01:20 PM

I am by no means an expert but here are a couple ideas.

Yes you can move the axle above the springs a lot of trailers come this way. But,, this may require some adaptation. Most axles have a flat plate welded onto them where the leaf springs sit. So you may have to get this modified check into this. As well is there any room to lower the rollers or rails. Some trailers are set up quite high look at the boat when it is sitting on the trailer if you have some room to lower most have adjustment holes to lower or raise the boat.

Good luck..

BBC0 · #3 08-09-2009, 01:50 PM

Thanks for the response. Everything on this trailer is set as low as possible. I fugure that I am not the first person to have had this problem. The guy I bought it from has a real high 4X4 and was prepared to back up into waist deep water. I just think that there has to be a better way.
There is a plate welded to the bottom of the axle as you mentioned, but I think that I can just rotate the axle to bring it to the top. There are no brake lines or other things preventing that, as far as I can see. Just ondering now if the 'u' bolts will take the weightwhich will now be hanging on them?

Mistagin · #4 08-09-2009, 02:17 PM

I've got a 14.5 Princecraft on an Eazy-Loader trailer. My trailer has the axle mounted above the springs,and with the hull support bunks in the 2nd lowest position it is no problem launching at all. Gotta remember that if you lower everything too much the skeg on the motor might be too close to the ground (I found that out the hard way

, that's why my bunks are in the 2nd lowest position). Gotta have a bit of clearance room there for bumpy roads and lousy ramps!!!
Is your trailer sitting level? If the hitch is too low the rear of the trailer is elevated thus making launching more difficult.

Here's a launching tip I've often used on shallow ramps, but don't do it if you're not experienced! Line up on the ramp, making sure the ramp is long enough so the trailor wheels don't drop off the end, make sure the boat is untied, unhooked from the winch - BUT - tie a length of rope to the trailer and bow eye on the boat!!! Back up down the ramp and apply brakes when the boat is about to float free and preferably before your vehicles' back wheels get wet! The sudden stop will propel the boat off the trailer, then you can pull up the ramp far enough to retrieve and untie the rope from the trailer and pull the boat where you want it. Then go park your vehicle. Getting the boat back on is a bit harder - ya need boots; something else I learned from experience

. Also, practice the technique several times to get comfortable doing it.

And one more thing, make sure the hull plug is in. One time a friend launched like that without it and got talking with some guys over in the parking area and when he got back to the boat it was ummmm, well, pretty wet inside

big zeke · #5 08-09-2009, 02:23 PM

Most axles have what is called camber or crown...this means that they are bent (albeit slight) upwards towards the center of the axle. The "bend" helps increase the weight carrying capacity of the axle. If you try to flip the axle over the "bend" will be pointing downwards...this is a really big deal in axle design. The only one's I've ever seen that are not crowned are the very light duty trailers that they sell at Home Depot & Canadian Tire.

If you want to do a flipover you need to get a set of spring saddles (those flat parts that the spring rests on) welded to the opposite side of the axle. Then you can just bolt the springs to the saddles with the original U bolts. The hardware for shackles is fairly specific to this service so I'd suggest getting any stuff (nuts, washers etc.) from a spring shop (like Standens, McCoys etc).

You might be able to lower your overall height by getting a set of "shorter" trailer tires...depending on the rim size you might be able to find one. Make sure the weight rating of the tires is a fair bit more than the trailer weight rating...you don't want the tires to be the weakest link.

Zeke

BBC0 · #6 08-09-2009, 02:26 PM

Good advice! Thanks.
Is it OK to tow with the motor pivoted up a bit? I have a 30 hp Suzuki and I don't know if it is designed for this.

dodger · #7 08-09-2009, 04:13 PM

I have the 14' Alumacraft with a 30 hp on it. I rarely use a boat launch, I just back it into a couple of feet of water and manually push it off. The back end of the boat is barely touching the water. Winching it in is a little tougher with no help from the water but I put on a 3000lb winch to make it easier.
Dodger.

JohninAB · #8 08-09-2009, 04:23 PM

Yes tow with the motor tilted up a bit. Get yourself a transom saver and install it. They are not that expensive. $40 bucks will get you a good transom saver.

And as stated before, axles have a crown in them which must be in the upwards position. Princess auto sells the saddles and they are only around $5 a piece. Get a couple, have them welded to the axle and remount your axle, just ensure you have enough clearance between your tires and fenders when you flip the axle.

hockey1099 · #9 08-11-2009, 07:16 PM

What kind of vehicle are you using to tow the boat?

BBC0 · #10 08-11-2009, 08:28 PM

I use my sons new Toyoto 4X4 forget the model but they all have white roofs. It's taller than a jeep, but the trailer sits about level.

BBC0 · #11 08-11-2009, 08:30 PM

I think I will move the axle above the springs. Then I can adjust everything up a little to get the right clearances. Right now everything is set as low as possible.
Thanks for all the tips.

floppychicken · #12 08-11-2009, 11:33 PM

Could you not just use a Hitch Extender ? Sure, you'll reduce towing capacity by about 50%, but even that would EASILY tow that boat 'fully loaded' with the new TOYOTA.

They're only about 50 to 100 bucks (6" to 18").

Cheers,

/FC....

Jayball · #13 08-12-2009, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mistagin

I've got a 14.5 Princecraft on an Eazy-Loader trailer. My trailer has the axle mounted above the springs,and with the hull support bunks in the 2nd lowest position it is no problem launching at all. Gotta remember that if you lower everything too much the skeg on the motor might be too close to the ground (I found that out the hard way

, that's why my bunks are in the 2nd lowest position). Gotta have a bit of clearance room there for bumpy roads and lousy ramps!!!
Is your trailer sitting level? If the hitch is too low the rear of the trailer is elevated thus making launching more difficult.

Here's a launching tip I've often used on shallow ramps, but don't do it if you're not experienced! Line up on the ramp, making sure the ramp is long enough so the trailor wheels don't drop off the end, make sure the boat is untied, unhooked from the winch - BUT - tie a length of rope to the trailer and bow eye on the boat!!! Back up down the ramp and apply brakes when the boat is about to float free and preferably before your vehicles' back wheels get wet! The sudden stop will propel the boat off the trailer, then you can pull up the ramp far enough to retrieve and untie the rope from the trailer and pull the boat where you want it. Then go park your vehicle. Getting the boat back on is a bit harder - ya need boots; something else I learned from experience

. Also, practice the technique several times to get comfortable doing it.

And one more thing, make sure the hull plug is in. One time a friend launched like that without it and got talking with some guys over in the parking area and when he got back to the boat it was ummmm, well, pretty wet inside

This works... I have done this many times. And yes the first time... i left the plug out the first time. I remember taking my time parking the truck... walking back to the boat... firing her up and taking off slowly to get out of the no wake zone. about 5 min later i wondered why the back end of the boat was so low! i looked in the back and found almost a foot of water almost 3/4 of the way up the transom.

i put the hammer down... all the water got sucked out... put the plug in... and i never forgot that that little sucker again.

Rick. · #14 08-14-2009, 12:42 AM

One more piece of advice. Call Standen springs and ask them the torque specification for those U bolts. I did it once and didn't torque them and a year later one of my springs shifted enough to catch my tire and what a mess. Ripped the tire completely off the rim and I never did find that half of the leaf. I bought a new spring and hardware a Standens and the torque spec. they gave me was much higher than I had thought. Rick.

DLP · #15 08-14-2009, 04:58 AM

I often load an 18ft crestliner in some shallow water launchs with an SUV. I may be ingnorant but I don't worry about the water until it's running in the doors. Just my 2 cents but I wouldn't worry about your exhaust running under water.
later

freejoe · #16 08-14-2009, 10:03 AM

I think if you move the axel above the springs you will be putting it back to origional position, sounds to me they were flipped before you owned it for a lift to accomidate the high truck that pulled it