Another Buying a boat ?

[Couleestalker]

I am going to look at a used boat this weekend. The temperature outside are calling for right around freezing or a little below. The motor hasnt ran all winter. Should we run the motor or is there risk of wrecking the pump.

[TROLLER]

Originally Posted by Couleestalker

I am going to look at a used boat this weekend. The temperature outside are calling for right around freezing or a little below. The motor hasnt ran all winter. Should we run the motor or is there risk of wrecking the pump.

Don't think you can hurt the pump as long as it drains good afterward.

Don't even think of buying that boat without hearing the motor run. Last thing you need is to buy a boat then find out the cost of engine repair is equal to the boat purchase. If the seller does not want to run the motor then either wait for a nicer day or ask your self if he is maybe hiding something.

GOOD LUCK

[Gillfisher]

I just bought a used motor which was on a boat, I told the guy I would not be interested in the motor if I could not see it start & run & pump water. He brought the boat into his shop we started it up and ran it in forward & reverse before I agreed to buy it. You want to make sure the motor goes into forward & reverse. Might be nice to check compression if it is an outboard.

Gillfisher

[Juicy]

I'm trying to sell my river boat as well if you know of anyone else looking. It's ok to start up but you don't want to run the pump dry for very long.

[HunterDave]

Originally Posted by Couleestalker

Should we run the motor or is there risk of wrecking the pump.

A lot of the time the motor is worth as much as the boat especially when buying used. The motor is what usually cost the most to maintain so I would spend more time checking it than the boat. At a minimum here's what I do.

Check the overall condition of the boat first and pay attention to the transom. Look for any rot or larger stress cracks from the motor. Check the operation of the steering, controls, radio, electrical, etc.

If you start the motor out of water there is a very good chance that you will damage the impeller (water pump). Invest in a set of those muffs that you put over the water intake and attach a hose to. They are cheap, easy to use and handy to have.

Buy a compression test kit at Can Tire while you are getting your muffs. Find out what the compression for the motor should be and compare it to what the motor has. If one or both cylinders are below the acceptable level for the motor this would indicate that engine work is required. You can expect the compression to be a little lower on older motors but it's not a good sign if one cylinder is a lot lower than the other.

Check the condition of the oil in the lower leg by unscrewing the lower screw. Milky oil indicates a leak somewhere. Bringing a litre or two of lower leg oil might be an idea so you can fill it if required or change it if it's milky. Recheck after you you've run the motor to see if it has turned milky again. If so, it would indicate that the leak is internal and not at the screws.

Start the motor up with the muffs/water on and see how it runs. Look for a steady stream of water coming out from the water pump. Replacing an impeller is not a big deal but if it's not pumping steady it's gotta be done. Might help in negotiations.

[Swath]

Originally Posted by HunterDave

A lot of the time the motor is worth as much as the boat especially when buying used. The motor is what usually cost the most to maintain so I would spend more time checking it than the boat. At a minimum here's what I do.

Check the overall condition of the boat first and pay attention to the transom. Look for any rot or larger stress cracks from the motor. Check the operation of the steering, controls, radio, electrical, etc.

If you start the motor out of water there is a very good chance that you will damage the impeller (water pump). Invest in a set of those muffs that you put over the water intake and attach a hose to. They are cheap, easy to use and handy to have.

Buy a compression test kit at Can Tire while you are getting your muffs. Find out what the compression for the motor should be and compare it to what the motor has. If one or both cylinders are below the acceptable level for the motor this would indicate that engine work is required. You can expect the compression to be a little lower on older motors but it's not a good sign if one cylinder is a lot lower than the other.

Check the condition of the oil in the lower leg by unscrewing the lower screw. Milky oil indicates a leak somewhere. Bringing a litre or two of lower leg oil might be an idea so you can fill it if required or change it if it's milky. Recheck after you you've run the motor to see if it has turned milky again. If so, it would indicate that the leak is internal and not at the screws.

Start the motor up with the muffs/water on and see how it runs. Look for a steady stream of water coming out from the water pump. Replacing an impeller is not a big deal but if it's not pumping steady it's gotta be done. Might help in negotiations.

Does running on muffs prove that the impeller/water pump work? It is a pressurized feed so I am thinking it is not a good test for the pump. Am I right in thinking this?

[HunterDave]

Originally Posted by Swath

Does running on muffs prove that the impeller/water pump work? It is a pressurized feed so I am thinking it is not a good test for the pump. Am I right in thinking this?

I suppose that you could be right if there is a lot of pressure in the hose. The last time that I did it with muffs was out at the lake and the pressure is not very high. I didn't have a steady stream of water coming out until I started the motor. A couple of weeks ago I filled the garbage container with water to test a 15 hp outboard and that worked great. I suppose that it'd be a good option for larger motors of you positioned the container with the leg in it and then filled it with water.

[Swath]

Originally Posted by HunterDave

I suppose that you could be right if there is a lot of pressure in the hose. The last time that I did it with muffs was out at the lake and the pressure is not very high. I didn't have a steady stream of water coming out until I started the motor. A couple of weeks ago I filled the garbage container with water to test a 15 hp outboard and that worked great. I suppose that it'd be a good option for larger motors of you positioned the container with the leg in it and then filled it with water.

Yes, I think that running in a barrel would be a better indication as well.

[Cal]

Originally Posted by HunterDave

I suppose that you could be right if there is a lot of pressure in the hose. The last time that I did it with muffs was out at the lake and the pressure is not very high. I didn't have a steady stream of water coming out until I started the motor. A couple of weeks ago I filled the garbage container with water to test a 15 hp outboard and that worked great. I suppose that it'd be a good option for larger motors of you positioned the container with the leg in it and then filled it with water.

Oddly enough with the muffs I generaly dont get as steady of a stream coming out my outboard as i do with the leg submerged. Though as you say the logic would say otherwise.

[Fishhunter]

Don't put it in gear if running in a barrel or it will flood your shop!!!Ya I did that the other day.

[HunterDave]

Originally Posted by Fishhunter

Don't put it in gear if running in a barrel or it will flood your shop!!!Ya I did that the other day.

I learned another thing when I did it with my 15 hp. If you don't tighten the motor down and you give it some gas to check reverse, the lower leg will raise and slice a bit of plastic off of the container.