Advice on sharpening an auger blade

[shanejo]

Hello,

I have been out fishing a lot lately and my auger is not nearly as effective as it was at the start of the year. I took the blades off this afternoon and am looking for some advice on how to best sharpen the blades. The blades have a bit of a curve to them so I am not sure if getting a stone would be the best bet. Should I order one of those pull through sharpeners for ice augers?

https://www.cabelas.ca/product/14082...harp-sharpener

Or should I just got at it with a file and steel to sharpen the blade?

Thanks!

[calgarychef]

Having grown up with only hand augers….

An auger is a big drill bit, once you understand the geometry of a drill you should be able to sharpen any of them..including all of your shop drills. take a look at YouTube to learn to freehand a regular drill and you should be on your way. P.S. never tap a drill on or through the ice, it can bend the blade attachment points and once the angle is wrong it won’t cut as well.

I don’t think pull through sharpeners work well on any cutting tool as they don’t address the angle of the grind and don’t work out chips and gouges.

[fisher69]

I bought the lazer strike master sharpener and it worked good on my swede bore auger blades, which are a bit rounded. Bought new blades last year but they needed a touch up this year. It worked well and it has a rest on one side that goes against the top of the blade and this angles the sharpener on the blade properly.

They state clearly though that it's only a temporary fix and the blades will need to be replaced, so I'll see how long it actually lasts, hopefully through this season as I'd rather not have to buy new blades every year

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0010G3C80/...ing=UTF8&psc=1

And here's a video showing how to use it
https://youtu.be/C3XiVfA0QXo

It can really depend on the brand and type of blades, and honestly unless you know what your doing don't try to manually sharpen it with anything else.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[EZM]

You could use a set of stones and take time and care to get the blades sharpened.

In my case, I bought a set of replacements, and when I swap them out, I send the dull set out to be sharpened. They do a quick and effective job on these for me and it's only a few bucks.

That way I always have a back up set on the ice.

[OL_JR]

Originally Posted by shanejo

Hello,

I have been out fishing a lot lately and my auger is not nearly as effective as it was at the start of the year. I took the blades off this afternoon and am looking for some advice on how to best sharpen the blades. The blades have a bit of a curve to them so I am not sure if getting a stone would be the best bet. Should I order one of those pull through sharpeners for ice augers?

https://www.cabelas.ca/product/14082...harp-sharpener

Or should I just got at it with a file and steel to sharpen the blade?

Thanks!

What specific auger do you have? That would help as there are a bunch of different designs.

[pikergolf]

Originally Posted by shanejo

Hello,

I have been out fishing a lot lately and my auger is not nearly as effective as it was at the start of the year. I took the blades off this afternoon and am looking for some advice on how to best sharpen the blades. The blades have a bit of a curve to them so I am not sure if getting a stone would be the best bet. Should I order one of those pull through sharpeners for ice augers?

https://www.cabelas.ca/product/14082...harp-sharpener

Or should I just got at it with a file and steel to sharpen the blade?

Thanks!

Where do you live Shane?

[calgarygringo]

Just take them to a professional sharp shop and get them done right. Most only charge around 12 bucks per blade and make them better than new. Do them yourself and screw them up (angles) you may mess up a days fishing. At the cost of fuel these days professional is cheap.

[graybeard]

Originally Posted by calgarygringo

Just take them to a professional sharp shop and get them done right. Most only charge around 12 bucks per blade and make them better than new. Do them yourself and screw them up (angles) you may mess up a days fishing. At the cost of fuel these days professional is cheap.

I agree 100% with you. This is one of those times that it pays to pay...

To get the blade sharp is easy. To get the correct angle is not easy.

Good luck,

[Remps17]

What I do with curved blades is use sandpaper. I glue different grits of sandpaper on a flat dowel and follow the angle of the blade. If really bad start with a 150-200. Work your way up to 600+. You will create a small burr on the backside. Lightly file it off on a stone. But what ever you do. DO NOT SHARPEN THE BACKSIDE.

Flat blades I use a stone.

If you blades are in bad shape. Send them in. This is more maintenance work. Like someone has said, pickup a backup pair and that way your out of commission.

I drilled close to 100 holes this past weekend. I will take my blades off and touch them up. Best to stay on top of them.

Good luck.

[shanejo]

Originally Posted by pikergolf

Where do you live Shane?

I am in Edmonton, I just have a basic cabelas hand auger.

Thanks for all your thoughts!

[sparkster]

Is there any sort of ongoing maintenance tricks that keep the the sharp edge always instead of lettings them get dull over time and then getting them professionally sharpened.

I talked to this amazing arborist take down a massive huge tree with a little stihl chainsaw piece by piece. Being a chainsaw guy myself, i asked him how he did the hole tree without changing his blade once. He told me he has not taken a chain off his saws for years and keeps them razor sharp by giving them a quick file, sharpen during or after every job. I was amazed

Is there any sort of device we can follow the same principle. After each day, run a quick stone or sharpener over the blade? Interested in peoples thoughts. Because, I hate dull blades!

[kevinhits]

As mentioned before, get them professionally done. I have 2 sets and switch them half way through the season. Once done for the winter, take both sets to Foothills sharpening in Okotoks and ready for next ice fishing season. Both sets cost to sharpen around $20. I spend more than that on gas before i get out of Calgary for one trip..LOL

Getting the wrong angle and your trip is ruined...

[Penner]

Do NOT sharpen them yourself. Leading Edge Sharpening based out of Mornville. She has drop boxes in Edmonton for drop off & pick-up. Only person I found whom was able to sharpen curved auger blades.

[fish99]

the blades can be razor sharp , but if the leading edge is a little bit dull they will not cut good or at all if a manual auger is used.

[Bushleague]

Originally Posted by graybeard

I agree 100% with you. This is one of those times that it pays to pay...

To get the blade sharp is easy. To get the correct angle is not easy.

Good luck,

So long as you do the sharpening before the blade gets dull enough to lose its angles, retaining the factory angles is easy. I have an 8" Jiffy blade that I've done a minor touch up on probably once a season for over 15 years, just last year I got a new blade on sale... the new one cuts no faster than the old one. I have a Mora hand auger that I've had the same blades on since I was in high school, over 25 years later it still cuts great. Once again, its important to do your sharpening while the blades are still relatively sharp, and the job is relatively idiot proof.

The big thing is to figure out which angle is the most important, and to make sure to take the bulk of your metal off the other side. On a regular hand auger type blade you want to take the metal off of the upward facing edge (whilst retaining the original angle) and then just lightly take the burr off on the bottom, do not mess up that bottom angle on a hand auger. On a Jiffy style ripper blade its the opposite.

In neither situation, will any commercial product do you a whole lot of good. I just use a fine file and a sharpening stone with good success.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by Remps17

What I do with curved blades is use sandpaper. I glue different grits of sandpaper on a flat dowel and follow the angle of the blade. If really bad start with a 150-200. Work your way up to 600+. You will create a small burr on the backside. Lightly file it off on a stone. But what ever you do. DO NOT SHARPEN THE BACKSIDE.

Flat blades I use a stone.

If you blades are in bad shape. Send them in. This is more maintenance work. Like someone has said, pickup a backup pair and that way your out of commission.

I drilled close to 100 holes this past weekend. I will take my blades off and touch them up. Best to stay on top of them.

Good luck.

This ^^^^^^^^. Spot on advice.

Between these two they covered it perfect.

Originally Posted by Bushleague

So long as you do the sharpening before the blade gets dull enough to lose its angles, retaining the factory angles is easy. I have an 8" Jiffy blade that I've done a minor touch up on probably once a season for over 15 years, just last year I got a new blade on sale... the new one cuts no faster than the old one. I have a Mora hand auger that I've had the same blades on since I was in high school, over 25 years later it still cuts great. Once again, its important to do your sharpening while the blades are still relatively sharp, and the job is relatively idiot proof.

The big thing is to figure out which angle is the most important, and to make sure to take the bulk of your metal off the other side. On a regular hand auger type blade you want to take the metal off of the upward facing edge (whilst retaining the original angle) and then just lightly take the burr off on the bottom, do not mess up that bottom angle on a hand auger. On a Jiffy style ripper blade its the opposite.

In neither situation, will any commercial product do you a whole lot of good. I just use a fine file and a sharpening stone with good success.

[kevinhits]

Take the above advice and get a professional to do it. I have 2 sets and switch them mid winter ice season. Once ice is done, I take them to Foothills sharpening in Okotoks. Costs around $12 a set and they are done properly. As mentioned before, your blades can be sharp as hell, but if the angle is off just a little, the blades are useless.

Pick them up at my convenience and both sets are ready for next ice season.

[brewster29]

Flat hand auger blades like a Mora can easily be sharpened perfectly with a guided hone system such as the Lansky. Don’t mess with the bottom edge, set up your hone to match the blade angle of the top edge. A medium stone will take out small imperfections and leave the edge plenty sharp.

I have sharpened Jiffy ripper blades with a fine file, taking care to match the angle. The steel was a lot softer than I expected.

[Dean2]

I get sending them to a shop because u don't want to be bothered, but I really don't get the idea they can do a job you can't. They don't have any specialised equipment unique to sharpening. If they can do it so can u if you are willing to learn how. Took me a few tries to get it dead on but once you figure it out it is literally a 10 minute job. If you are worried about getting out on the ice and not being able to cut just carry a spare new set. I always had 2 sets for my sugar just in case I hit something like sand in the ice, a shallow hump or the like that dulled off my auger mounted set.

[Jims83cj5]

Here is my advise, foothills sharpening okotoks

[Cigarguy]

I do a lot and love sharpening. I will sharpen almost anything and have about 20 different Japanese whetstones and about 10 diamond stones. Sharpening is one of those thing that once you know and get it you just know and get it. Muscle memory and practice is big.

Today I am comfortable sharpening most anything. I love sharpening Japanese knives and about once every few months I go around to all my friends and neighbours asking for blades to sharpen. They love that.

When I first got into sharpening I went out and bought about $600 worth of stones and sharpening tools. My first 2 years was pathetic. My chopsticks were sharper. Then after a lot of practice, something clicked and I'm still improving every year. It takes time and you have pay the apprenticeship price.

As for the OP, for the cost, recommend getting it professionally done. Yes it's just a blade and nothing special about it but get it wrong and you'll be frustrated on the ice. At home with let's say a cheap kitchen knife, you can test right away blade sharpness.

[Cigarguy]

Originally Posted by Jims83cj5

Here is my advise, foothills sharpening okotoks

Good advice. I recommend those guys too. I take in all my saw blades for them to sharpen and they do a great job. Also good to support and buy local.

[Bushleague]

Originally Posted by Cigarguy

Good advice. I recommend those guys too. I take in all my saw blades for them to sharpen and they do a great job. Also good to support and buy local.

Yeah I always test mine before it matters, generally just spud down a couple inches on any handly nearby slough... do NOT hit the bottom though, by the time you see dirt in the ice chips your blades are generally damaged way beyond the scope of DIY repairs.

[Moosetalker]

Good to hear about Leading Edge Sharpening service.

I have a Husquavarna 10" with the curved Lazer blades made by Mora in Sweden.
This year my spare set meant to go to a sharpen service got misplaced so had to go online and purchase new set Just in case.
Fast forward they arrived today $108.00 US dollars later Only supplier was on EBay.

A word to the wise Use a Shovel to clear snow down to Ice. All it takes to wreck a set of blades is drilling once thru a spot where someone had parked and sand and gravel stuck in wheel well dropped on the ice.

[Penner]

Originally Posted by Moosetalker

Good to hear about Leading Edge Sharpening service.

I have a Husquavarna 10" with the curved Lazer blades made by Mora in Sweden.
This year my spare set meant to go to a sharpen service got misplaced so had to go online and purchase new set Just in case.
Fast forward they arrived today $108.00 US dollars later Only supplier was on EBay.

A word to the wise Use a Shovel to clear snow down to Ice. All it takes to wreck a set of blades is drilling once thru a spot where someone had parked and sand and gravel stuck in wheel well dropped on the ice.

I have and a buddy of mine we both have the Husky in a Mora 10”. Leading Edge sharpened the blades up and they work great. Hope you bought the spare blades with serrated edge as those work way better than the smooth edge blades.

I have found replacement blades in town. Fishing Hole had them a few years back. They were about $80 CDN.

[OL_JR]

I didn't see it mentioned and if I missed it my apologies but another good thing to keep an eye on is the centering point if your auger happens to incorporate one. I've been fooled into thinking I need new blades when the point was the culprit.

[Moosetalker]

I have and a buddy of mine we both have the Husky in a Mora 10”. Leading Edge sharpened the blades up and they work great. Hope you bought the spare blades with serrated edge as those work way better than the smooth edge blades.

I have found replacement blades in town. Fishing Hole had them a few years back. They were about $80 CDN.
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I wish they did have stock FH Boss said they are having difficulty re stocking due to shipping issues. Sold their last ones early Dec.

I paid $75.00 US for the blades the was $32.00 for non optional insured shipping delivery fees.
And yes the ones I got are the serrated edge.