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Old 03-07-2016, 07:31 PM
Thunderr Thunderr is offline
 
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Default Building a Garage/Shop

I'm looking at building a new shop on my acreage and I'm looking for your suggestions regarding some do's and don'ts. Thinking of a 40'x50' I believe I can go as high as 28.75' as per Rocky View County building code. Any suggestions as to which company to get a quote from or to stay away from greatly appreciated as well. Any guesses to cost?? I know there are many variables. Concrete floor, insulated, heated, shower and toilet....the list goes on.
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Old 03-07-2016, 07:45 PM
coastalhunter coastalhunter is offline
 
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Location: Peace River, BC
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All I can say is don't skimp on your slab. People try to save on concrete, then bring their friends excavator in and crack something.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:11 PM
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KBF KBF is offline
 
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I've seen great things from integrity Post Structures out of Okotoks. Seem like good people to deal with. They have some great building concepts and quite cost efficient.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:16 PM
Smokinyotes Smokinyotes is offline
 
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Mine is on a 20"x8" grade beam with a 5-1/2' frost wall. Shop is 40 x 60 and it's not big enough. I would go with 14' overhead doors, mine are 12' high and they are too low. To do it right, totally finished inside and out you are probably looking at well over 100g. Make sure you slope the floor and put drains in. Saw cut your floor so you don't get cracks. I like radiant tube heaters, quick dependable heat.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:58 PM
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roger roger is offline
 
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Lots of ideas when it's some ones else's money.
couple things I like is to add a lean-to on the eaves it steals some of the monster heights of 16' walls and creates economical unheated storage areas for Steel, tires whatever. Plus it adds substantal sidewall strength to the design.
I see more benefit in boiler /slab heat vs infrared. Infrared has definetely benefitial but limits space close to the ceiling. Or putting vehicles on a hoist can get close to heat. Also a concrete apron or drive up pad that is glycol heated.
A large trough drain /intercepter to a holding tank.
I'd put the roll up doors at the gabled ends and at opposite corners. Oversize the electrical. Not sure what your doing though. Shops are awesome yours will be too.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:07 PM
NCC NCC is offline
 
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Location: Leslieville
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I built one slab on grade shop and have had 2 pole building type shops, one by Integrity and one by Goodon. The two pole sheds have been good but the 4 and 6' spacing on the trusses scare me. If the costs are close, I would stick build on a slab or grade beam.

The biggest mistake I see on shops is not building up the site a foot or two above grade so that the water runs away from it. I would surface mount the electrical so that additional circuits can be added. I also put in 20 amp circuits as my chop saw trips a 15 amp breaker. Minimum 14' high doors. I went with one 20' wide door instead of two smaller ones. I sometimes wish I had went with a 12' wide and a 16' wide. Put the doors on the gable ends so that snow doesn't come off the roof and pile up in front of the doors.

I've had a radiant heater and under floor. I prefer underfloor heat.

I would slope the floor and put a floor drain in. 3 or 4" sewer pipe ran under the slab and out the side above the ground costs less than $100 and makes it easy to keep the floor clean and dry.
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Old 03-08-2016, 06:19 AM
Thunderr Thunderr is offline
 
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Thanks guys, some great ideas that I never thought of.
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  #8  
Old 03-08-2016, 10:36 AM
sarahfaye sarahfaye is online now
 
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Default Walk in cooler

I used ICF blocks for the first 4 feet of walls in my shop. Still kicking myself for not making a walk in cooler out of ICF at the same time. Would be many times better than the 3 " factory panels on the cooler now.
The T5HD light fixtures at Home depot have been amazing light in my, and 3 buddies shops since. 4 tube. 8 fixtures total in a 50x50. More than enough light.
Lean to on both sides if you can do it.
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  #9  
Old 03-08-2016, 07:03 PM
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roger roger is offline
 
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Tuftex PVC Liner Panel

Search this product for use a inside finish. It's quite pricey but it goes up quick, use vynil siding trim peices, somewhat impact resistant and obviously washable. It is sometimes used in barns and such. I did my two xar garage it reflects huge amounts of light. Comes in custom cut lengths. Check it iut
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  #10  
Old 03-08-2016, 08:22 PM
Kyle Watson Kyle Watson is offline
 
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Default Rule of 10

Just remember the rule of 10 what ever you build or can afford to build its will be 10ft to narrow and 10ft to short, so build as big as you possibly can I have never heard any body say I wish this shop was smaller and same goes for the height go as tall as possible.
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  #11  
Old 03-08-2016, 08:57 PM
Purple Farmer Purple Farmer is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderr View Post
I'm looking at building a new shop on my acreage and I'm looking for your suggestions regarding some do's and don'ts. Thinking of a 40'x50' I believe I can go as high as 28.75' as per Rocky View County building code. Any suggestions as to which company to get a quote from or to stay away from greatly appreciated as well. Any guesses to cost?? I know there are many variables. Concrete floor, insulated, heated, shower and toilet....the list goes on.
Build as big as you can even if you can't finish it right away. what will you be using the shop for?

Based on you wanting 40x50 I would recommend going 80 x 60, you run out of space really fast! In floor heat is a must, but, you can't beat a wood stove and a beer, do both if you can.

A cheaper pole shed could cost as little s 12 bucks a square foot, a nice finished stick frame shop with a few goodies and heated slab can run 60-80 bucks a square foot.

Good luck, exciting time.
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