Gun powder

[Archery_nut]

Just getting into reloading for myself and am curious as to what powder everyone uses. Is there a better brand then others? Thanks

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[Dick284]

Go buy a few reloading manuals.

It's all explained within.

Different powders depending on the cartridge and bullet weight is my best answer.

Oh ya. Powder I can always get my hands on, or even buy in bulk is another criteria I like in my choices.

[bobinthesky]

Look at a few different loading manuals for the cartridge and bullet you have chosen to reload, figure out which powder looks to be consistently faster and more accurate than the others. You may also consider to what level the powder fills the case, I prefer it fills the case with the given bullet as close to 100% as possible without having to compress the load. You may also want to consider if it's a ball or extruded type, long cut or short cut because some powder charge measures work better with some types more than others. And lastly, you want to make sure the powder is easily obtainable because some brands are hard to get and some powders are not being made anymore.

Like Dick said, it's all in the manuals. The best thing some one starting out reloading can do is buy or borrow some manuals and get reading!

[Archery_nut]

I have purchased the Lyman reloading manual as well as the barns manual. I have taken a reloading course but that was some time ago and I was looking through the manuals last night and noticed the difference powereds and couldn't remember what I learned in the course. I will take a closer look as to see what power is the most consistent between the two manuals. Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

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[densa44]

Once you read and understand the manuals; make notes of what you need to buy to reload the "perfect" round you will get to the store and find that the store does not have all the components that you need. One or more will be unavailable. So my advice gleaned from sad experience, see if you can find combinations (substitutes) that are recommended in the manuals and will work for you.

Trying to find the powder that I wanted has been the biggest problem over the last 50 years.

[bobinthesky]

The Nosler manuals list what the most accurate powder charges are for each bullet/powder combination. I've had pretty good luck picking one of these combo's that shows higher velocity, I don't believe in leaving velocity on the table if the load is accurate. As always, start low and work the charges up to the specified amount watching all the time for excessive pressure. Most manuals also show what overall length to seat the bullet to and this is a good place to start until you understand more about seating depths.
They don't always work out well but like I said, I've had pretty good luck with these loads for the most part.

[Scott N]

Another tip that I can offer is to try to stick with some of the more commonly available powders. IMR and Hodgdon powders seem to be on the selves more often than Alliant powder is for example. It sucks when you work up a good load, and then have trouble finding the same powder again.

[elkhunter11]

Based on years of experience, I don't put a lot of faith in the supposed "most accurate loads" listed in the manuals,or in the COL listed in the manuals, but they will allow you to make ammunition that is usable. I look at several manuals, and choose two or three powders that produce good velocity in the manuals, and start testing with them. The most important thing for a new loader is to begin with reduced loads, and work up the powder charge while watching for pressure signs. Contrary to what some people assume, not all loads listed in all manuals , will be safe in all rifles. And if you dn't now how to recognize pressure signs, then you need to do some research before you start testing loads.

[purgatory.sv]

The lyman is a good reference.

[Archery_nut]

Great advice. Thank you.

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[bobinthesky]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

Based on years of experience, I don't put a lot of faith in the supposed "most accurate loads" listed in the manuals,or in the COL listed in the manuals, but they will allow you to make ammunition that is usable. I look at several manuals, and choose two or three powders that produce good velocity in the manuals, and start testing with them. The most important thing for a new loader is to begin with reduced loads, and work up the powder charge while watching for pressure signs. Contrary to what some people assume, not all loads listed in all manuals , will be safe in all rifles. And if you dn't now how to recognize pressure signs, then you need to do some research before you start testing loads.

Bases on my many years of experience, I actually have had pretty good luck with the "most accurate loads" listed in the manuals however I did throw in a disclaimer stating that they haven't always worked out. One has to start some where and in my opinion, this is a pretty good place to start for a beginner. Your mileage may vary.

[Digger1]

OP, what cartridge are you looking to start on?

[Twist]

Originally Posted by Scott N

Another tip that I can offer is to try to stick with some of the more commonly available powders. IMR and Hodgdon powders seem to be on the selves more often than Alliant powder is for example. It sucks when you work up a good load, and then have trouble finding the same powder again.

I had that exact problem.

It was dang near impossible to find Unique, bullseye, or blue dot a while back.

Now I have a bunch.

Vhitivouri is an underrated powder, in my opinion.

There are a great many options with it.

[bubba300]

What cartridges will you be loading for,I use alot of IMR4831 & H4831sc in my 30-06 base cases(270 win,280ai 25-06)and my 7mm Rem Mags.It may not give me the greatest speed but always good accuracy.
In the smaller cases(6.5 CM,243win) I have always had good luck with IMR4350 & H4350.Some of the larger cartridges like this also.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by bobinthesky

Bases on my many years of experience, I actually have had pretty good luck with the "most accurate loads" listed in the manuals however I did throw in a disclaimer stating that they haven't always worked out. One has to start some where and in my opinion, this is a pretty good place to start for a beginner. Your mileage may vary.

As I posted, those loads will produce usable ammunition, which is all that many beginning loaders are looking for. In fact many loaders never get past making usable ammunition , and perhaps trying to save a bit of cash at the same time. For those of us that are after much more than usable ammunition, we seldom rely on the COL listed in a manual, or on which load is listed as being supposedly more accurate , in a manual. What I do advise against doing, is starting with the supposedly "most accurate load" if it is not a lower end load. Unfortunately some people will start with a max or close to max load, because it is listed as the "most accurate" load. I have had people tell me that they don't bother wasting time and components working up loads, because no manual would list a load that isn't safe in all rifles.

[DiabeticKripple]

I’ve also learned to cross reference data between manuals and powder manuals.

I worked up a load with Barnes data, and shot it only to find I wasn’t close to max as Hodgdon lists the same bullet and powder 5gr higher than Barnes.

[bobinthesky]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

As I posted, those loads will produce usable ammunition, which is all that many beginning loaders are looking for. In fact many loaders never get past making usable ammunition , and perhaps trying to save a bit of cash at the same time. For those of us that are after much more than usable ammunition, we seldom rely on the COL listed in a manual, or on which load is listed as being supposedly more accurate , in a manual. What I do advise against doing, is starting with the supposedly "most accurate load" if it is not a lower end load. Unfortunately some people will start with a max or close to max load, because it is listed as the "most accurate" load. I have had people tell me that they don't bother wasting time and components working up loads, because no manual would list a load that isn't safe in all rifles.

Save your eye roll for some one else Elk. I also mentioned to start with a lower load and work up.
I'm not saying that you can't do better than the "accuracy load" listed in the manuals, especially when you have lots of experience as you have. I just think that a beginner should start with a load that might give them a high probability of success. I think we're saying the same thing only in a different way.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by DiabeticKripple

I’ve also learned to cross reference data between manuals and powder manuals.

I worked up a load with Barnes data, and shot it only to find I wasn’t close to max as Hodgdon lists the same bullet and powder 5gr higher than Barnes.

And although 5 grains is a lot, depending on the lot of powder, the cases, the primers, and the differences in chamber and barrel dimensions, it is easy to understand why there are variations in loads from manual to manual.
My first Barnes manual lists the max load as much as
5 gr less than my newest Barnes manual. I worked up loads for my rifle that were 3 gr more than the first manual, but I won't use the new data using the exact same components in my rifle, because it is too hot for my rifle.

[DiabeticKripple]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

And although 5 grains is a lot, depending on the lot of powder, the cases, the primers, and the differences in chamber and barrel dimensions, it is easy to understand why there are variations in loads from manual to manual.
My first Barnes manual lists the max load as much as
5 gr less than my newest Barnes manual. I worked up loads for my rifle that were 3 gr more than the first manual, but I won't use the new data using the exact same components in my rifle, because it is too hot for my rifle.

Yes load development is still needed, but I would have saved a good chunk of money had I checked multiple sources to get a ballpark to start in. Lesson learned.

[Archery_nut]

I'm looking to start with my 7mm-08

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[Archery_nut]

Also I am looking for more accuracy and consistency they velocity

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[Dick284]

Originally Posted by Archery_nut

I'm looking to start with my 7mm-08

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139gr and lower use something like Varget, 4064, 4895
140gr. and higher it's hard to not look at 4350.

[Xbolt7mm]

Originally Posted by Archery_nut

Just getting into reloading for myself and am curious as to what powder everyone uses. Is there a better brand then others? Thanks

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Were do you live

[Archery_nut]

Originally Posted by Xbolt7mm

Were do you live

Edmonton

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[Xbolt7mm]

Originally Posted by Archery_nut

Edmonton

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Sorry then, im in calgary, maybe one of the edmonton boys ca invite you over for tutorial

[Dr. Phil A]

Your gun is going to tell you where its sweet spot is. It is call harmonic balance and each rifle is different. I have watched my rifles go from a pie plate size pattern down to a clover leaf then start to open up again as I laddered a recipe from min to max.
What I learned from laddering a recipe is that I got to shoot more to start with but as I got to know my guns is that I could start at a different point in order to save lead and powder.

The powder companies tie into the reloading data center but it is limited to three powders.

You can email some of the companies and they will send you the reloading sheet on your gun if you are using a specific bullet.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by Dr. Phil A

Your gun is going to tell you where its sweet spot is. It is call harmonic balance and each rifle is different. I have watched my rifles go from a pie plate size pattern down to a clover leaf then start to open up again as I laddered a recipe from min to max.
What I learned from laddering a recipe is that I got to shoot more to start with but as I got to know my guns is that I could start at a different point in order to save lead and powder.

The powder companies tie into the reloading data center but it is limited to three powders.

You can email some of the companies and they will send you the reloading sheet on your gun if you are using a specific bullet.

If a load is so sensitive to changes in the powder charge that the accuracy goes from clover leaf to pie plate, I abandon the load. I look for hunting loads where I can vary the powder charge , with a minimal effect on accuracy.

[Dr. Phil A]

Re read
Started out open then tightened up as the loads got hotter then passed the sweet spot. Never got as big as the opeking loads. If I abandoned the load I could not knock off a kinder surprise egg at a 100 yards free hand with my 243.
There have been some loads dropped as they didn't respond as expected.

[fellwings]

Best powders in my opinion are the Extreme series by Hogdon. Specifically Varget and H4350 will yield the smallest SD's

[amosfella]

I tend to look at the slowest powder available in the manual first. I like compressed or 100% loads. They provide greater consistency imho.