rings and bases

leftiesarebetter · #1 11-19-2010, 10:46 PM

This is probably a pretty stupid question. But I have never owned a gun but am looking at buy a LH savage 30-06. My question is the barrel is drilled and taped for bases but how do you know what style of bases(1 or 2) peices to get and what rings to get? I have tried looking myself but there are so many options to consider. I have seen RH 1 peice but not for left handed so does that mean that no 1 peice will work with a LH. Hope you guys can shed some light on this for me.

thanks

elkhunter11 · #2 11-19-2010, 10:52 PM

Try Leupold 55711 base for LH savage long action.

leftiesarebetter · #3 11-19-2010, 11:13 PM

will this type also work for the savage 116?

elkhunter11 · #4 11-20-2010, 05:39 AM

Supposedly it also fits the 116.

Quote:

Product Features

* Designed To Receive Standard Rings
* Savage 110 - 116 Round Receiver (LH LA)
* 0
* Standard
* 1-Piece Base

Jerry D · #5 11-20-2010, 03:43 PM

You can get 2 pieces bases as well. These are interchangeable between a LH and RH for a Savage.

Personally I like weaver style bases with Burris signature Zee rings. I find this setup easy to install myself and haven't had any problems with it yet.

leftiesarebetter · #6 11-21-2010, 01:44 AM

this might be another stupid question but do all rings fit into all bases. Like would a leupold base fit burris rings?

imhere · #7 11-21-2010, 05:21 AM

If your not optilocking a sako then its talley all the way

#8 11-21-2010, 10:44 AM

A one piece ring/base combination is excellent at elimination of variables that could impact your ultimate accuracy. Problem is, a one piece ring/base combo could limit your scope options or put the scope in a less then desireable position. 6061 alum is what tally uses I believe which is ample.

I never recommend the leupold/redfield bases with one turn in ring and one windage ring as they are problematic.

A one piece rail (monted properly) like TPS is an excellent choice as you have multiple ring positions and you can add accessories like ACDs etc. Two piece bases always take the form of the receiver and if the receiver is out (normally they are) you will need to do more lapping unless you use a Burris Spherical bushing ring (which could have problems as well).

A quality one piece base will have an integral recoil stop machined into the base or an adjustable stop to take the recoil forces and allow the rings holding the base to not be exposed to shear during recoil.

Weaver style bases are very strong as well.

elkhunter11 · #9 11-21-2010, 10:53 AM

Quote:

I never recommend the leupold/redfield bases with one turn in ring and one windage ring as they are problematic.

Some people don't like them,but I have used them for over 20 years, and have not had a single problem.Even when used on my 300RUM and 338x8mmremmag rifles,they held zero,and gave no problems at all.In cases where I have seen issues that other people had with these mounts,the problem was not properly torquing the screws.I much prefer the Leupold bases over Redfield though,as I have seen soft screws with the Redfield bases.

#10 11-21-2010, 12:54 PM

The amount of effort required to properly align the windage adjustable leupold or Redfield bases is far more then they are worth. Although, if you have an old mauser that someone drilled with a hand drill and no jig you will likely find them very suitable in an effort to correct gross windage errors. Modern production guns are better but again not perfect.

elkhunter11 · #11 11-21-2010, 01:04 PM

Quote:

The amount of effort required to properly align the windage adjustable leupold or Redfield bases is far more then they are worth.

I guess that I was just lucky,but I spent very little effort in setting up any of those dozen or so one piece bases with windage screws.

#12 11-21-2010, 03:29 PM

Like everything in life, it all depends how critical you want to be.

leftiesarebetter · #13 11-21-2010, 04:35 PM

when you guys say weaver style bases do you actually mean the weaver brand? Or is that a style that of base that is made by other companies? Being a fairly new shooter would you recommend a 1 peice or 2 peice base? also is a rail the same as a base?

elkhunter11 · #14 11-21-2010, 04:49 PM

A rail is a type of base.The truth is,if you use good mounts and rings,and mount them properly,it doesn't matter if they are one piece or two piece.

#15 11-21-2010, 04:50 PM

Sorry- yes when I say a rail I generally refer to a one piece weaver - picatinny style cross slot base which extends front to rear on a receiver. If well made it will be straight to help ensure when the rings are mounted to it that they are in alignment - centerlines of each ring match.

The 2 piece Weaver bases are relatively decent - the Aluminum ones are extruded. Mounted with the aid of an alignment fixture (and bedding compound like Devcon Expoxy) to hold them you will have better alignment then if you just screw them to a receiver.

Weaver makes alum and steel (grand slam) bases. The Steel being tougher. I prefer these weaver products over the turn in front base - windage screw rear base.

I like Nightforce or TPS one piece rails (bases). They are likely made by TPS strangely enough. Richard Near also makes good simple bases (and very high quality custom bases) but at premium. From my experience with the different one piece bases on the market, TPS is very hard to beat. There are other good bases out there as well that I haven't mentioned.

#16 11-21-2010, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

A rail is a type of base.The truth is,if you use good mounts and rings,and mount them properly,it doesn't matter if they are one piece or two piece.

Mounting them properly is key, how problematic they are and how long it takes to mount them properly are my concern. A screw in base without a shear block works but compared to a base with a integral shear stop, it is not the same league. One reason I like custom receivers with integral bases (rails) like BAT or Surgeon is you eliminate a variable. Penalty is you have more weight and are stuck with a rail (omoa, 10, 15, or 20moa etc..).

Without bedding or trying to remachine a base you simply follow the receiver. Due to machining/polishing (better these days) and warpage due to heat treatment you cannot maintain good alignment. Lapping and reaming requirements in these cases be excessive.

I should mention pending availabilty you might have to use a system like a turn in front base and a windage rear, but I hate using them..... I.E. my Browning 45-70 single shot. On a bolt action the weavers don't look too bad, but on a single shot...or european gun ....sometimes they look out of place.

leftiesarebetter · #17 11-21-2010, 05:45 PM

are rails better than one peice base? I think I like the idea of a 1 peice base as being a new shooter I don't want complicated. I am really liking the burris zee rings can you suggest a good rail to go with this ring. I don't want to break the bank but at the same time I don't want garbage that will cause me grief during next years season. I know you've said tps rails where can you get this rail from?

leftiesarebetter · #18 11-21-2010, 05:54 PM

I've heard of MOA for scopes but how does this come in to play with a mount? also by turn in front do you mean like a dove tail?

BallCoeff.435 · #19 11-21-2010, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Precisionshooter

[...] A screw in base without a shear block works but compared to a base with a integral shear stop, it is not the same league. One reason I like custom receivers with integral bases (rails) like BAT or Surgeon is you eliminate a variable. Penalty is you have more weight and are stuck with a rail (omoa, 10, 15, or 20moa etc..).[...]

Granted, a custom receiver with machined-in rail would be the most solid mount. However, I understood that a shear-stop type rail serves mostly to stiffen the top of an otherwise 'open' receiver.

With a 'round-top' factory or custom action, the material is already there; no need to stiffen the action. Not to mention there would be no place to put the rail's shear lugs anyway. Once a round-top rail is screwed in with locktite, how much more solid could it be, compared to a rail with shear-stop lugs in a more open action?

#20 11-22-2010, 07:08 AM

Burris zee rings or signature zee rings will work with the picatinny or weaver style rail. No problems.

On receiver with a hunting type action where the 12 o'clock position is machined away (to save weight and to allow a large feeding/extraction port). This enables a rail to machined with a small shear lug (or in Farrells case a "g force" screw to be adjusted) to contact behind the front receiver ring. The shear lug doesn't help stiffness.

On a receiver with a small target port the receiver bridged or continuous with no interruption between the front and rear rings. Consequently you cannot use a base with a shear lug unless the action can accommodate one. Typically "pinning" is used to take the shear load on these receivers. No shear pin, then you are relying on friction between the base the top of the receiver.

Hope that makes things clear.

The turn in style ring/base usually consists of the ring having a key on the bottom of the ring. To install the ring you position the ring 90 degrees from its final position, insert the key in the base key hole and then rotate 90 degrees in either direction.