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08-17-2017, 07:03 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
Posts: 1,723
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Decided to paper tune
Well paper tuning sure showed me a lot. Pretty bad I'd say. So I know to correct the vertical first. That being said do I just force my d loop down cuz it's pretty tight or do I make a new d loop?
Last edited by jungleboy; 01-01-2024 at 09:42 AM.
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08-17-2017, 07:04 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
Posts: 1,723
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The pic uploaded upside down. I'm high and right
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08-17-2017, 07:06 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Look behind you :)
Posts: 27,780
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Are you getting nock pinch?
Do you tie in your d-loop?
Have someone check at full draw if your nock has slight up/down movement.
LC
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08-17-2017, 07:12 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
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Here's what it looks like
Last edited by jungleboy; 01-01-2024 at 09:42 AM.
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08-17-2017, 07:16 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Look behind you :)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie135
Here's what it looks like
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Looks like you might be getting some nock pinch, you need to open up your d-loop a bit. If you tie a nock point inside your d-loop on the bottom it will help keep your arrow pressure on the rest.
Does your arrow sometimes feel like it's lifting up as you draw back?
I tie in both the top and the bottom on my bows. Then the d-loop stays put it won't close over time.
LC
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08-17-2017, 07:25 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
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What do you use to tie in a nocking point? Serving material?
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08-17-2017, 07:40 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Look behind you :)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie135
What do you use to tie in a nocking point? Serving material?
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18 thou serving material
LC
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08-17-2017, 08:18 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
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I redid my d loop. Kept adjusting it down but no change.
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08-17-2017, 08:21 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
Posts: 1,723
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Maybe my spine is too stiff? Shooting 340 spine, 28" @60 lbs
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08-17-2017, 08:24 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Look behind you :)
Posts: 27,780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie135
Maybe my spine is too stiff? Shooting 340 spine, 28" @60 lbs
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I have used 340spine at 60# at 28" before in my D350.
What bow are you shooting? How far away is the paper you are shooting? Is it pulled really tight?
LC
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08-17-2017, 08:34 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
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2016 Hoyt powermax, paper is pretty tight, could maybe be a bit tighter. Shooting at maybe 4-5 metres
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08-17-2017, 08:36 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
Posts: 1,723
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I did a walk back tune yesterday at 40-30-20 and it was bang on
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08-17-2017, 09:04 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Edmonton Area
Posts: 4,102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie135
Here's what it looks like
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Is this a photo of you just before you are about to shoot? If so, I would suggest your 1st issue to tackle is your draw length is about an 3/4 to an inch too long. Where the nock meets the string should be at the corner of your mouth. Too long of a draw will definitely induce torque and make paper tuning very difficult.
There are some really great threads on archery talk about draw length, form and reducing torque.
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08-17-2017, 09:14 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
Posts: 1,723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brendan's dad
Is this a photo of you just before you are about to shoot? If so, I would suggest your 1st issue to tackle is your draw length is about an 3/4 to an inch too long. Where the nock meets the string should be at the corner of your mouth. Too long of a draw will definitely induce torque and make paper tuning very difficult.
There are some really great threads on archery talk about draw length, form and reducing torque.
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No it is not right before I shoot. I took the pic just to show Lefty my d loop/nock position. Not saying my form is perfect by any means but my anchor point while shooting is pretty solid
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08-17-2017, 09:23 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie135
2016 Hoyt powermax, paper is pretty tight, could maybe be a bit tighter. Shooting at maybe 4-5 metres
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4-5 meters is too far, shoot it at 0.5-1m and 20m. You measure it coming out of the bow and at 20m after it settles.
Proof is in the pudding if you walk back tune and it's good...it's good, shoot broadheads and if the POI is good you are good.
LC
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08-17-2017, 09:30 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck
4-5 meters is too far, shoot it at 0.5-1m and 20m. You measure it coming out of the bow and at 20m after it settles.
Proof is in the pudding if you walk back tune and it's good...it's good, shoot broadheads and if the POI is good you are good.
LC
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Awesome! Thanks for your help
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08-17-2017, 10:00 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Look behind you :)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie135
Awesome! Thanks for your help
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At 4-5m you arrow is still flexing and hasn't settled yet, you want to check it coming right out of the bow, quite often the paper is close enough my target stab 27-30" almost touches it.
LC
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08-17-2017, 10:03 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck
At 4-5m you arrow is still flexing and hasn't settled yet, you want to check it coming right out of the bow, quite often the paper is close enough my target stab 27-30" almost touches it.
LC
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I'll try closer tomorrow.
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08-17-2017, 11:26 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Strathcona County
Posts: 2,170
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I've found walk back and broadhead poi to be most accurate with my set up. Paper tune would probably be more for getting things close after setting up the equipment but I think it would be a step backward doing paper tune after walk back.
I'm no pro though and don't charge for any bow services
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08-18-2017, 07:03 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 20
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paper tune
I had a Mathews that I could not paper tune. I shoot right hand and the tear was tail left. The proshop noticed a little cam lean and put 2 twists in the right yoke and that fixed it.
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08-18-2017, 07:36 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
Posts: 1,723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garry G
I had a Mathews that I could not paper tune. I shoot right hand and the tear was tail left. The proshop noticed a little cam lean and put 2 twists in the right yoke and that fixed it.
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I was thinking maybe that too. I'll be going to Poachers Corner in Glendon tomorrow to get some help.
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08-18-2017, 08:16 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Look behind you :)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie135
I was thinking maybe that too. I'll be going to Poachers Corner in Glendon tomorrow to get some help.
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Cam lean is absolutely instrumental to work on while paper tuning. Part of the reason I like the binary cam system Bowtech has, it's the most "tunable" system.
LC
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08-18-2017, 11:01 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Edmonton Area
Posts: 4,102
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I have tuned a couple Chargers (identical to the Powermax) and the yoke adjustments are easy and critical to a proper tune.
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08-18-2017, 05:20 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
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So to me it looks like my cam is slightly leaning left. This tells me I need to take some twists out of the left yoke and add some to the right? Can I do this without a press? I watched a video of a guy using his hand to squeeze the down cable so he could insert a screwdriver in the cam to stop it going back to its rest position and he adjusted his yokes. I'm not sure if this is good idea or bad.
Last edited by jungleboy; 01-01-2024 at 09:42 AM.
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08-18-2017, 05:23 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
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Another pic
Last edited by jungleboy; 01-01-2024 at 09:42 AM.
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08-18-2017, 05:24 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
Posts: 1,723
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And the first pic right side up.
Last edited by jungleboy; 01-01-2024 at 09:42 AM.
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08-18-2017, 06:28 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Look behind you :)
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Don't mess with the strings or cables without a press. Not sure with Hoyt but with Bowtech there is always pre-lean. Let the paper tune tell you what to do.
LC
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08-18-2017, 06:36 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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Well I've got an appt tomorrow with a local shop. Hopefully have it sorted out there.
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08-18-2017, 06:46 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Edmonton Area
Posts: 4,102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie135
So to me it looks like my cam is slightly leaning left. This tells me I need to take some twists out of the left yoke and add some to the right? Can I do this without a press? I watched a video of a guy using his hand to squeeze the down cable so he could insert a screwdriver in the cam to stop it going back to its rest position and he adjusted his yokes. I'm not sure if this is good idea or bad.
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I would not use the screw driver method. Also, use your paper tuning results to adjust yokes as most bow will have some cam lean at rest. If your arrow is tearing right, then add twist to the right yoke and remove same amount from the left. Adding and removing equal amounts will keep the cam timing in sync.
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08-19-2017, 05:06 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cold Lake
Posts: 1,723
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I'm pretty sure my Hoyt is untunable. Either that or I suck at it. Probably the second one. So I went to a shop in Glendon to get help paper tuning. At the end I had bullet holes like I should. Problem is, is that I was maxed out left adjust on my rest and maxed out left on my sight. So happy with the bullet holes, I went to the range and was about 18" left of target at 20 yards with no more adjust on the sight to compensate. So I brought the bow back to where it was when I started and I'm hitting target but arrows sticking out in all directions. Maybe it's my rest. I don't know. I'm thinking of buying a new rest or driving the 3 hours to the city to see if Jimbows can help.
I'm at a loss on what to do, and two weeks til my elk trip.
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