DIY Floating Shelf install - maximum width lag bolt into 2x6 stud? **Pics Added**

[Spidey]

I picked up a 72 inch length of 2 x 14 live edge white pine (actual width is 2" and not 1.5" like a 2x4). I plan to rip one of the live edge sides even and cut them into 36" lengths for wall shelves for storage in our entry way.

I have some 8 inch lag bolts that are 1/2" in diameter. My plan is to drill pilot holes and screw them approx. 2 inches into the 2x6 studs in our entry way (exterior wall but non load bearing studs), leaving approx. 5 1/2 inches of the bolt coming out of the wall. Once set in the studs, I will grind off the hex heads, drill 1/2" x 5 1/2" pilot holes into the 2" side of the pine shelves and slide them onto the lags.

My big question is, can I sink a 1/2" wide lag bolt into a 1.5" wide stud while remaining within building code? I'm able to get dead centre on the studs. The shelves will only be holding a maximum of 20-30lbs each, but we'd prefer floating shelves. vs brackets and I'm trying to use what I already have on hand.

Thanks

[Twisted Canuck]

You should be fine, just drill a 3/8" pilot, into the stud first.

[Greatwest]

Sounds like a cool project when I get to working on my man cave in the basement I am thinking of a live edge plank counter/bar along the one wall which will be bar stool height. The only issue I see with how you plan on doing this is it could be difficult to get the shelves level. Everything has to be bang on and precise including making sure your lag bolts are put in straight and level and your holes drilled into the shelf would need to be exact and straight too. Doesn’t take much of an oops and the shelf will be noticeably un-level. Good Luck and post some pictures of the finished product once you are done.

[Spidey]

Thanks guys. Yep, I was planning on a 3/8" pilot for the studs and maybe 15/32" for the shelf so it fits snug.

I'm taking my time to make sure I'm as level as possible. My though was to hold the shelf level against lag bolts coming out of the wall and giving it a few whacks with the rubber mallet to mark the pilot holes and then take it to the drill press.

Sure, I'll try to remember to post pics when I'm done but it may be a few weeks with the speed I work

[omega50]

Any accommodation for set screws?

[Tungsten,]

I do new home ones,5/8 steel rod.I pre drill on a little angle up.Shelves look funny if they slope down.Drill your shelves 1/16 bigger.
edit my shelves come with an open back not holes.

[Spidey]

Originally Posted by omega50

Any accommodation for set screws?

I was toying with that idea but I don't think I need that level of stability for our needs (seasonal clothes, gloves, toques, scarves, etc.)

[Spidey]

Originally Posted by Tungsten,

I do new home ones,5/8 steel rod.I pre drill on a little angle up.Shelves look funny if they slope down.Drill your shelves 1/16 bigger.
edit my shelves come with an open back not holes.

Good suggestion. I can see with 1/16 bigger and a slight angle up, it might be more forgiving for final fit. Thanks for the tip!

[Tungsten,]

Originally Posted by Spidey

I was toying with that idea but I don't think I need that level of stability for our needs (seasonal clothes, gloves, toques, scarves, etc.)

After you cut the head off,cut some gouges in the bolt.The rough edges will catch the wood so it wont wobble loose every time you slam your door.

[Twisted Canuck]

Originally Posted by Spidey

Good suggestion. I can see with 1/16 bigger and a slight angle up, it might be more forgiving for final fit. Thanks for the tip!

You would definitely want to over-size the holes in your shelf. I suspect no matter how careful you are, that all the holes and rods won't line up perfect. You will want a little play, and I suspect it will tighten right up as you install shelf. You may even need a rubber mallet to put it on all the way. Post pics when you are done, sounds like a good project.

[morinj]

For future projects Ready Rod would work great, and you would be able to use pieces longer then 8” and avoid using your grinder, and possibly reduce the risk of slope, this doesn’t require access to the stud threw the wall, but that would be more sturdy, if your only mounting 30lbs I don’t think it matters, tungstens idea of angling up a little is also pretty good.

[Spidey]

Thanks to everyone for all of the advice. The first (highest) shelf took the longest, but the second one and hook bracket went much quicker. The lag bolt brackets worked well and can hold my weight so they should be good to hold baskets of clothes! I built a pilot hole jig and with Tungsten's advice, went with with a 5 degree angle raise. I used a natural semi gloss stain, and am trying to convince my wife that a game mount would look perfect over the top shelf!

I still have some minor wood filling to do around the railway spikes and joints but am happy how it turned out for less than $150 in materials and the fact that I am a woodworking amateur .

[Twisted Canuck]

That looks really good, I love the railway spike hooks. Excellent job.

And put a good game mount up, it will look so good!

[Greatwest]

Nice!! Glad your project worked out. Agree on the railway spikes nice touch.

[JohnB]

Nice work.

[Spidey]

Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck

That looks really good, I love the railway spike hooks. Excellent job.

And put a good game mount up, it will look so good!

Thanks - I'm thinking pronghorn....

[Twisted Canuck]

Originally Posted by Spidey

Thanks - I'm thinking pronghorn....

Good choice. Classy, without overwhelming the space. Your wife will love it.