Anchor question

[ragweed]

Question for you experienced boaters out there.
What do you recommend for an Anchor for a 1970's 15.5' fibreglass boat. I have no idea of my boat's weight but it's significant. It has made in Vancouver, and has an enclosed bow (holds the 50l fuel cell) with a deep hull.

[58thecat]

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvis...e-Right-Anchor

https://www.suncorstainless.com/site...eightguide.pdf

check this out....even when I had a bigger boat 17'5" open bow fish and ski I went with this type Traditional Danforth Style Fluke Anchor and still do in my smaller boat....there is a lot of variables as to exactly what you are requiring the anchor to do etc...

[Fishwhere]

Im assuming this is for lakes/rivers and not ocean but the "digger anchor" is black and gold and can also unlatch and swivel straight up and down when needed. Get the 15 pound model, it holds like a beast in freshwater. Think its about $150.

Hope this works

https://thefishinhole.com/index.cfm?...&mr=DIG&cs=105

[ragweed]

I should have also added....I mostly fish the southern AB reservoirs with the occasional drive further north. I'll check those out. Thanks guys.

[EZM]

The biggest factor in your anchor biting and holding properly is proper geometry for the type of mud/sand or rock bottom you are usually fishing followed by putting 6'-10' of chain immediately above the anchor to allow it to rest properly.

The other thing I learned, is 99% of the guys don't set it properly. 3 times the rope vs the depth at minimum - 5/1 is better.

If it's set up and deployed correctly a 15lb navy or danforth type is a decent "all around" anchor for most conditions here for a boat that size.

It does take a little "planning" to let out enough rope (if you are setting up wind or in current) so that when you drop and set, you can let out so you are over top the structure you want to fish.

On a clam day - this is less critical.You could get away with hovering the spot, driving a little up wind or upstream and plop and drop and if there's no wind you are usually OK.

I usually find the spot, GPS mark it, move upwind/upstream a bit, drop it, give it some slack and a good bite then feed the rope out as I "back into" the spot I want to be over and that usually works good.

[jednastka]

What really helps with geometry is a 2-3 foot length of heavy chain attached directly to the anchor, and then your anchor rope attached to that.

VIC

[ragweed]

Great info guys! Thank you very much!

[cube]

Originally Posted by ragweed

Question for you experienced boaters out there.
What do you recommend for an Anchor for a 1970's 15.5' fibreglass boat. I have no idea of my boat's weight but it's significant. It has made in Vancouver, and has an enclosed bow (holds the 50l fuel cell) with a deep hull.

The 8 lb mantus will hold your boat no problem with appropriate scope. I use it on mine and it never budges an inch. I remove the roll bar as I don't anchor over night but if you do leave it on. If you plan on anchoring in 100 km/hr winds get the 13 lb anchor.
I have chain as the first part of my rode but here one does not need it as we don't have abrasive rocks and zebra muscles. While the chain can aid in getting some anchors set it's primarily used for abrasion resistance and here in Alberta I have never found a need for it. Shield lakes etc that have sharp rocks is a totally different matter.

https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-...anchor-choice/

[Penner]

Originally Posted by jednastka

What really helps with geometry is a 2-3 foot length of heavy chain attached directly to the anchor, and then your anchor rope attached to that.

VIC

x2 the chain makes a huge differnce.