First time broadhead tuning...Stuck...Pls help

Ghillie_frog · #1 08-20-2014, 09:18 PM

So I have been reading as much as possible about how to broad head tune from this site and others and felt I had a good understanding on what to do.
Until....... I got stuck.

My current setup: 29" draw, 65 lbs draw wt, 28in arrow length, 350gr arrow wt, 290fps arrow speed, 100gr broad head, 0.392 arrow spine.

See the picture for where I am stuck. I cannot group the arrows together any tighter than this. FP on the left and BH on the right. If I move the rest in either direction (left or right) from this spot, one of the arrow gets further from POI. My guess to a solution is to either decrease the poundage on my bow or I need a stiffer arrow spine. Thoughts?

Ghillie_frog · #2 08-20-2014, 09:22 PM

Seem to be struggling with the picture loading process. I will keep trying. Never mind got it.

Settle&release · #3 08-20-2014, 10:11 PM

My bet would be arrow spine. Try to stay away from minimum arrow spine on the charts. Original charts are made for bows that are a lot less efficient than today's modern compound bows. I know it sounds kinda redundant but a heavier arrow also has more kinetic energy anyways ( rib splitting power).

shorthair ptr. · #4 08-20-2014, 10:14 PM

Well if it was my bow and I had this problem , especially this close to hunting season. I would just adjust the sight for the BH's. I don't know how far you are shooting from to get these impacts but it isn't that bad that if you just want to stay in form using FP's shoot away knowing that you will be 3" left. Practice more shooting the BH's and know they hit where your aiming.

Mike_W · #5 08-20-2014, 10:48 PM

Ok so I am not following exactly what you are saying ... You move the rest and that makes the gap between the BH and FP larger?
It's not important where you get a group to shoot but you want your BH and FP together after that you can adjust your sights.

What's you draw length, arrow length, how many pounds are you pulling, what weight of FP and or BH, what arrow spine are you shooting?

Your solution should be (if you are shooting the correct length and spine of arrow) is to move your rest left.

Ghillie_frog · #6 08-21-2014, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike_W

Ok so I am not following exactly what you are saying ... You move the rest and that makes the gap between the BH and FP larger?
It's not important where you get a group to shoot but you want your BH and FP together after that you can adjust your sights.

What's you draw length, arrow length, how many pounds are you pulling, what weight of FP and or BH, what arrow spine are you shooting?

Your solution should be (if you are shooting the correct length and spine of arrow) is to move your rest left.

If I move the rest to the left (away from bow) my BH hits bullseye, but at the same time my FP gets another 1 inch away from the bullseye to the left. If I move the rest to the right then my FP hits bullseye and the BH moves an 1 inch further away from bullseye.

I have all that info listed in my orignal post about the setup except that I was shooting at 20yards.

winger7mm · #7 08-21-2014, 01:35 AM

If I understand correctly, you are trying to get your BH to shoot the same as your FP or vise versa. This time of the year, leave the FP at home and shoot your broad heads. The two fly different from each other. Have your bow shooting the broadheads good, dont worry about the feildpoints. Once hunting season is over switch back

brendan's dad · #8 08-21-2014, 07:14 AM

I know a few here have said "this close to the season, forget your FP and sight in with your BH." I would agree with them if your split distance was 2 to 3 inches at 20 yards, but you are almost a foot. You have some major tuning and/or shooting issues which should be addressed prior to letting an arrow fly at an animal.

I stated shooting issues not to be a D#$%, but because torqueing a bow can have the same negative effects as improper set up and under spined arrows. All will lead to poor penetration and erratic arrow flight.

Also, your group size at 20 yards suggest that there is something wrong with the bow or more practice is needed. I was taught that what ever group size you shoot during practice you can double the size for hunting. So if I shooting within an 1 -1.5 inches at 20 yards my hunting group is about 2-3 inches. This takes into account field factors like wind, position and buck fever. So right now my groups at 60 are 4-5 inches which mean this is my maximum moose distance and 45-50 yards in my maximum deer distance. From your target results, if you went hunting right now I would suggest to set your max deer distance at 20-25 yards.

Going to see a expert like Lawrence, Neil, Jimbows etc...will not only get your bow set up properly but they will also watch you shoot and adjust you where needed. Good luck and have a great season.

Alberta Bigbore · #9 08-21-2014, 07:34 AM

Did you walk back tune your field points?

Mike_W · #10 08-21-2014, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ghillie_frog

If I move the rest to the left (away from bow) my BH hits bullseye, but at the same time my FP gets another 1 inch away from the bullseye to the left. If I move the rest to the right then my FP hits bullseye and the BH moves an 1 inch further away from bullseye.

I have all that info listed in my orignal post about the setup except that I was shooting at 20yards.

Sorry don't know how I missed the arrow info. From that I would guess you are under spined. Try to shoot some 340 spined arrows and see if that improves.

Also have you paper tuned the bow?
This could be worth while as it will make sure your arrow is leaving your bow proper to begin with.

Sometimes broadheads won't hit identical but at 20 yards you should be able to get them very close by tuning, after that you might need to adjust your sights but I would suggest ignoring the advice to just sight in for your field points now.

Having a broadhead on your bow is like having a set of fletching on the front of your arrow. If your bow is out of tune or your spine is incorrect or your form is suffering a broadhead just amplifies and exposes an issue.

Also to confirm you say you move your rest the broadheads will impact your point of aim but your field tips will be an inch further left then they are now?
That sounds like an improvement of a few inches.

I still think it's a spine issue .... Well spine and tuning.

If you are in Calgary go down to Jim bows and get them to check over your bow and at that time paper tune it and look over your form..... I don't know if they have a broadhead target there or not but maybe you could also try a couple 340 arrows to see if weak spine is also an issue.

Good luck
Mike

Alberta Bigbore · #11 08-21-2014, 08:07 AM

Im a perfect example of where not all broadheads impact the same.

My setup..

-Exodus 100gr.... 3 inch high.. 3 inch right at 20
Remove O ring.... tighter by an inch and a half....

- Exodus 85 gr ... bang on to 40 ( didnt try past yet with these)

-Slick trick grizz trick 100 gr.... 1.5 in up and 1.5 right

-GRIM REAPER Hybrid 100 gr... bang on with field points out to 50... after that they plane up and left.. at 80 yards they plane up and left by a foot.

-G5 Montec 100gr...... ( tried them last night) bang on with field tips even with a wind.. and at 80 yards last night.. they were hitting with my field points at 80. ((( not saying ill take an 80 yards shot on an animal people!!)))). Mike W for witness...

I found a good solid walk back tune was important... from your body being fresh and rested.. do it over and over for consistency.. then go back the next day and play with broadheads. But lawrence found my bows centershot.... checked timing. Etc etc.. and i logged every move i made so i could go back to square one.

I think im still having a weak spine issue.. and after i am done this saturday.. i might order a new set of arrows to play with .. same spine arrow cut half to one inch shorter...... or just a stiffer spined arrow and see what happens. One thing ive also learned this year.. is dont get frustrated... have fun with it.. it will all come out in the end.

Riverbc · #12 08-21-2014, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike_W

Sorry don't know how I missed the arrow info. From that I would guess you are under spined. Try to shoot some 340 spined arrows and see if that improves.

This....you are underspined. Shoot some 340's. or turn bow down to 60 lbs.

Capone11 · #13 08-21-2014, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ghillie_frog

So I have been reading as much as possible about how to broad head tune from this site and others and felt I had a good understanding on what to do.
Until....... I got stuck.

My current setup: 29" draw, 65 lbs draw wt, 28in arrow length, 350gr arrow wt, 290fps arrow speed, 100gr broad head, 0.392 arrow spine.

See the picture for where I am stuck. I cannot group the arrows together any tighter than this. FP on the left and BH on the right. If I move the rest in either direction (left or right) from this spot, one of the arrow gets further from POI. My guess to a solution is to either decrease the poundage on my bow or I need a stiffer arrow spine. Thoughts?

[IMG]http:/i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p675/Ghillie_Frog/Broadhead%20Tuning/photo_zps4444464a.jpg[/IMG]

Can't see the pic that well but if those arrows say 250 thAts a pretty light weight for 65 pounds your pulling, that could be causing your arrows to fly all over, you should be shooting at least a 300 arrow and make sure you line your broad head up with your fletching.

petew · #14 08-21-2014, 09:42 AM

Tuning with 1 arrow groups is not the way to go. Shoot 3 arrow groups and tune from the center of these groups. Shooting 1 arrow FP then 1 arrow BH you have no way of knowing if or what arrow you pulled off. This also shows you the size of a group you are capable of. If you are only capable of a 6" group with FP that is all you can expect with a BH.
Work on the groups, get them to overlap, then move the sight back to the Bullseye.

3blade · #15 08-21-2014, 04:03 PM

Paper tune, correct problems.

Walk back tune, correct problems.

Broadhead time, chances are you won't have to correct anything, but this is where different broadheads can change things. As demonstrated by ABB.

Agree probably a spine issue that should have been evident in paper tuning.

Ghillie_frog · #16 08-21-2014, 07:10 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think with it being so close to the season start, I will put away the field points and move the rest to where the BH were hitting the center (as some of you suggested). Then walk back tune with the BH to make sure there still on and call it good. Next year I will start this process earlier and likely be getting stiffer spined arrows.