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  #31  
Old 12-09-2020, 08:47 AM
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Dean2 Dean2 is offline
 
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Well you tried all the common/cheap fixes so you are down to a new actuator. If it were me I would get the factory shop manual as the manuals have all of the detailed info you need to diagnose the rest of the issue. I have downloaded that manual but at 52 MB it is to large to email.

You can find the manual here

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...5ZJWJYBYx3vJ7s

Installing the actuator yourself will probably save you 2/3s. especially if you can located a used one. I would get the part number for the actuator and start searching on Ebay, parts stores etc for a deal.

Anybody looking for service manuals for other makes etc here is the general access link

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...7LP-eZp2jMRVJU
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  #32  
Old 12-09-2020, 10:43 AM
204ruger 204ruger is offline
 
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On the wiring from the actuator if you supply a ground to the green wire and 12v power to the orange/white wire the actuator should engage and stay engaged if it does then you have wiring issues before that, if it does not stay engaged than it needs actuator and if that’s the case might be worth finding a used diff with one attached or a used actuator.
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  #33  
Old 12-09-2020, 01:19 PM
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Stinky Buffalo Stinky Buffalo is offline
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Dean2, thanks for posting those links. Much appreciated!

...have an old Honda I'm helping a friend fix.
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  #34  
Old 12-09-2020, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinky Buffalo View Post
Dean2, thanks for posting those links. Much appreciated!

...have an old Honda I'm helping a friend fix.
It really is handy and the best part is they are free. Glad it was a help. I try to find the service manual for everything I own. I is amazing how much money that has saved me over the years.
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  #35  
Old 12-09-2020, 05:55 PM
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ronkaren ronkaren is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st99 View Post
impossible, honda owners always tell me their machine is bullet proof and only need an oil change once every 10 yrs.....
that is true, automatic with foot gear shift.
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  #36  
Old 12-10-2020, 08:25 AM
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There is a company in Prince George called K&K Motors. They had a quad/snowmobile wrecking yard. Lots of parts. Might be worth a phone call. Good luck.
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  #37  
Old 01-29-2021, 04:53 PM
ditch donkey ditch donkey is offline
 
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Update- previous to this issue, June maybe, the front bearing went, took out the hub and axle. I got one used hub, 1 new Kimpex axle, and new bearings for each side from Alberta Motorsports in Sangudo.

I gave up and took it to them. My brand new axle was broken. Not assembled properly from factory by the look of it. It would turn the wheel when it was on blocks, but not with any load on it.

They said warranty is with Kimpex, but they probably won’t give any, but offered me a used factory Honda axel and charged me labour, which I thought was fair. They could have fought me saying I didn’t install it correctly. Though I’m not sure how you could do it wrong.

Anyway, back in farm use, and I’d deal with Alberta Motorsports again!
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  #38  
Old 01-29-2021, 05:03 PM
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Weak battery was the reason for shifting issue in my buddies ES 20 years ago.
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  #39  
Old 01-30-2021, 09:15 AM
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nelsonob1 nelsonob1 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinky Buffalo View Post
Dean2, thanks for posting those links. Much appreciated!

...have an old Honda I'm helping a friend fix.
X2 i am working on my Honda 98 350 to tune it up for my son and those links are great
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  #40  
Old 01-30-2021, 10:06 AM
ram crazy ram crazy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ditch donkey View Post
Hello group!

I’ve done a lot of googling, atv forums, etc. And I still haven’t found a real clear answer , so I’ll put it here.

I’ve got a 2004 Honda 450es 4x4, but the 4x4 will not stay engaged. Here’s my symptoms-

4x4 indicator light will not come on with ignition on, but comes on with engine running

All wheels turn when up on blocks

4x4 seems to work initially when driving but stops after a few seconds

4x4 indicator light is always on when engine is running, regardless of whether 4x4 is working

No noise, grinding etc.

I’ve pulled the rack and fenders off, cleaned all the wire connections.

In my heart of hearts, I think the battery voltage is too low. Voltage meter says it’s at 12.3 v, I’ve read it should be around 12.6 v.

Battery is probably 8 years old.

Can I hook up a car battery to test it? It’s still a 12v battery?
Any other thoughts?
Did you check to see what you actually have for voltage at the actuator? You may have issues before the actuator. High resistance in the wiring would cause this. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve found green wires where a wire has rubbed through or someone has probed a wire and never sealed it back up. I’ve even found wiring where the wire looks totally fine but the wire was broke inside the sheathing. Check voltages and resistances of the wiring.
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  #41  
Old 01-30-2021, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ram crazy View Post
Did you check to see what you actually have for voltage at the actuator? You may have issues before the actuator. High resistance in the wiring would cause this. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve found green wires where a wire has rubbed through or someone has probed a wire and never sealed it back up. I’ve even found wiring where the wire looks totally fine but the wire was broke inside the sheathing. Check voltages and resistances of the wiring.

He already posted what the issue was a few up from this one, defective axle.
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  #42  
Old 01-30-2021, 10:15 AM
ram crazy ram crazy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean2 View Post
He already posted what the issue was a few up from this one, defective axle.
Sorry my bad, I missed that!
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  #43  
Old 01-30-2021, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ram crazy View Post
Sorry my bad, I missed that!

No big deal, but I always like to hear what the actual fix turned out to be. Diagnosis over the internet is always tough so neat too know how close a guy came.
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  #44  
Old 01-30-2021, 01:31 PM
Buckhead Buckhead is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ditch donkey View Post
Update- previous to this issue, June maybe, the front bearing went, took out the hub and axle. I got one used hub, 1 new Kimpex axle, and new bearings for each side from Alberta Motorsports in Sangudo.

I gave up and took it to them. My brand new axle was broken. Not assembled properly from factory by the look of it. It would turn the wheel when it was on blocks, but not with any load on it.

They said warranty is with Kimpex, but they probably won’t give any, but offered me a used factory Honda axel and charged me labour, which I thought was fair. They could have fought me saying I didn’t install it correctly. Though I’m not sure how you could do it wrong.

Anyway, back in farm use, and I’d deal with Alberta Motorsports again!
Not to hijack the thread but I have repaired a few quads for myself and others - axles, bearing, hubs, ujoints. Any of the Kimpex parts that I used were of poor quality and some were so out of tolerance that they could not be installed. I won't use Kimpex parts on anything again.
I have had good success with parts from All Balls Racing and East Lake Axle.
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  #45  
Old 01-31-2021, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckhead View Post
Not to hijack the thread but I have repaired a few quads for myself and others - axles, bearing, hubs, ujoints. Any of the Kimpex parts that I used were of poor quality and some were so out of tolerance that they could not be installed. I won't use Kimpex parts on anything again.
I have had good success with parts from All Balls Racing and East Lake Axle.

Thanks for the heads up. I did not know that about Kimpex but I will definitely avoid them in the future. Have always tried to use OEM parts, they do cost a bit more but especially with Honda, they are great quality.
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