Winterizing your holiday trailer - Page 2

HunterDave · #31 09-13-2011, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mountain Guy

Now..... if i can only figure out how to keep them flippin' mice out

Thanks for reminding me.............MOUSE TRAPS!!!!

rens27 · #32 09-13-2011, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HunterDave

Thanks for reminding me.............MOUSE TRAPS!!!!

Bounce in every cubby and cupboard seems to work. Also the problem with antifreeze in the hot water tank from what I was told (not sure if this is 100%accurate) is that if there is still residue when you turn your heater on the residue bubbles when heated and mixed with water. This could possibly create enough pressure to crack the tank. And decrease the amount of space for water in the tank.

If you are worried about the little bit of water trapped in the bottom of the tank. Take the trailer for a pull with the drain plug out and the excess will slosh out when you turn corners.

Double Shovel · #33 09-13-2011, 04:27 PM

I think I did the best thing I could have for winterizing my trailer this year.....I sold it. LOL

Selkirk · #34 09-14-2011, 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rens27

. . . Also the problem with antifreeze in the hot water tank from what I was told (not sure if this is 100%accurate) is that if there is still residue when you turn your heater on the residue bubbles when heated and mixed with water. This could possibly create enough pressure to crack the tank. And decrease the amount of space for water in the tank . . .

I'm not an expert on this stuff, but I would guess that the hot water tank 'pressure relief valve' would protect against that ^ potential problem.

Any thoughts?

TF

HunterDave · #35 09-14-2011, 11:44 PM

There's a shut off (bypass) valve for the water that goes into the hot water tank. Once closed nothing will go in there. Once the plug is removedfrom the tank and it's drained it stays that way. Then you put the anti-freeze through the lines.

wolfhunter · #36 09-15-2011, 12:23 AM

I think this year I will winterize my trailer on my own,there is some good advice here,but is there any special way of running the antifreeze through the lines.

HunterDave · #37 09-15-2011, 12:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolfhunter

I think this year I will winterize my trailer on my own,there is some good advice here,but is there any special way of running the antifreeze through the lines.

Unhook the line coming from the fresh water holding tank that is attached to the inlet of your water pump. When you turn on the pump it'll suck the antifreeze out of the jug and into the water lines. When the water comes out pink at the tap turn it off. Do the same with all taps, outside shower, toilet. Pour a cup of antifreeze into the drain to fill the traps and you are done.

I blow my lines out with a compressor to get the water out first before putting in the antifreeze but you don't have to............but I like overkill.

sco22 · #38 09-15-2011, 09:30 AM

Overkill is the way to go in my humble opionion. I blow mine out and then add the antifreeze. You can also buy a 2 way valve that redirects the pump from your holding tank to a small length of hose. The hose goes in the antifreeze container and voila.

I also put a small amount of antifreeze in my hot water tank. Just a squirt in the bottom to ensure any residual water is taken care of. It seems the drain is slightly above the bottom. In the spring, i just open intake valve on the tank and run water for 15 minutes or so.

I also mix about a cup full of lemon juice and a half cup of bleach in the fresh water holding tank after flushing out the antifreeze out of the lines in the spring. I just use the house pressure through the reducer and let all of my lines run wide open for 10-15 minutes. Let it sit for an hour and repeat. After that, I mix the bleach and the lemon juice in with a full tank. I run that all the way through the lines until the tank is empty. Fill the tank one more time and run it dry. After that, all my lines are clear and there is no residual taste of antifreeze or bleach. Just a light lemon scent.

Also, don't forget your outside shower - run the antifreeze to it as well.

Cheers.

Mad_Mikee · #39 09-15-2011, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccmckee

I blew out my system last year for a change. I made an adapter to hook my compressor to the water hose connection on the trailer and just turned down the pressure from the compressor to 50 psi, opened all the taps one at a time until they blew clear as well as the toilet. I also have 2 caps under the trailer that are the lowest points in the system, pulled them off until there was no water,pull the plug on the heater and let the water drain.Poured some anti freeze down the drains and good to go, takes all of about 15 minutes.

Thats exactly what I do as well. Doesnt take long.

Mountain Guy · #40 09-15-2011, 12:44 PM

Never could figure out why you blow out the lines then add antifreeze.
Once the pink comes out there can't be water left in the lines...No ?
Do one way or the other has always been my thinking.

javlin101 · #41 09-15-2011, 04:59 PM

For the last 4 years on my motorhome I do by Thanksgiving or if weather is going bad soonier

- Hot water heater has a bypass so do that & drain HT Tank.
- Water tank is setup so I can draw off a hose which I put into a 3 gallon bottle of RV antifreeze. Run the antifreeze through the lines put some in the traps. I buy a few large bottles of antifreeze and keep the hose in one. So for fall & all winter use the toilet only & you can flush as normal because the pump draws off the antifreeze bottle. The toilet does not use that much fluid if done right. In the spring I dump the tank & flush. We go up to the lake about every second weekend in winter if weather is good & have never had an issue in the 4 years.

slingshotz · #42 09-20-2011, 10:28 PM

I winterized the RV for the first time last year and everything survived except for the showerheads as I missed those. As a result the handle seams cracked a little. Other than that everything seemed to survive fine this year but it took some time to get the taste of the antifreeze out.

Since I was new to this, I put the antifreeze into the water tank and ran the pump to get it all through the pipes. Afterwards someone told me I should have done a hot water tank bypass. I couldn't find any instructions on how to do this nor any great directions on the internet. I realize that all the trailers would probably be different but the concept should be the same.

What should I be looking for? Is there a tap handle somewhere attached to the hot water line? Is the bypass standard on newer trailers (mine is a 2009)? Is the bypass usually outside, underneath or inside the trailer?

HunterDave · #43 09-20-2011, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slingshotz

What should I be looking for? Is there a tap handle somewhere attached to the hot water line? Is the bypass standard on newer trailers (mine is a 2009)? Is the bypass usually outside, underneath or inside the trailer?

On the inside of your trailer on the back of your hot water tank you'll have two lines into the tank......an in and an out. If you follow those two lines it should come to a "H" in the lines. There you will find a valve (or two, I can't remember) that stops the water from going through the line to fill the tank. If you turn it off the water will have to go through the middle part of the "H" so the water does a "U" turn before the tank.

Anyway, first, you should be turning your water off and draining your hot water tank and leaving the plug out. Turn the water back on and if water starts coming out of the tank after it's been drained then the line is still open. Play with your valves at the back of your hot water tank until it stops. The water should then be traveling through the "U" and bypassing the tank.

Whatever way your valve is turned is the direction that the water is traveling. If it's parallel to the line then the water is flowing through it. If it is horizontal to the line then the water is blocked there or re-routed through the line just before the valve.

Clear as mud eh?

Willowtrail · #44 09-20-2011, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slingshotz

I winterized the RV for the first time last year and everything survived except for the showerheads as I missed those. As a result the handle seams cracked a little. Other than that everything seemed to survive fine this year but it took some time to get the taste of the antifreeze out.

Since I was new to this, I put the antifreeze into the water tank and ran the pump to get it all through the pipes. Afterwards someone told me I should have done a hot water tank bypass. I couldn't find any instructions on how to do this nor any great directions on the internet. I realize that all the trailers would probably be different but the concept should be the same.

What should I be looking for? Is there a tap handle somewhere attached to the hot water line? Is the bypass standard on newer trailers (mine is a 2009)? Is the bypass usually outside, underneath or inside the trailer?

Check out my link in post 28. I used it when I did mine and it's got some decent pictures to help you out.

HunterDave · #45 09-20-2011, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willowtrail

Check out my link in post 28. I used it when I did mine and it's got some decent pictures to help you out.

I didn't read the link but one picture shows the "H" behind the tank very well. There are two valves along the lines going to the tank.....one going in and one coming out. You can see that they are horizontal to the lines indicating that they are blocking the flow of water.

You may not have the fancy brass fitting that the hose was attached to going into the water pump. If not, you can disconnect the line at the water tank and stick that into the anti-freeze. Just make sure that you have a hose clamp to reattach it to the water tank afterwards.

slingshotz · #46 09-21-2011, 10:09 AM

Thanks for the help everyone, things do make a bit more sense now. I'll have to dig around inside the RV to see where the access is to the tank, I've only ever accessed it from the outside.

Mountain Guy · #47 09-21-2011, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HunterDave

I didn't read the link but one picture shows the "H" behind the tank very well. There are two valves along the lines going to the tank.....one going in and one coming out. You can see that they are horizontal to the lines indicating that they are blocking the flow of water.

You may not have the fancy brass fitting that the hose was attached to going into the water pump. If not, you can disconnect the line at the water tank and stick that into the anti-freeze. Just make sure that you have a hose clamp to reattach it to the water tank afterwards.

There may be only one valve. On the cold water inlet on the bottom. The top may have a check valve in the fitting and not require an external valve.

Mountain Guy · #48 09-21-2011, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slingshotz

Thanks for the help everyone, things do make a bit more sense now. I'll have to dig around inside the RV to see where the access is to the tank, I've only ever accessed it from the outside.

How old of an RV?
Older models may not have bypasses. I would think that all new trailers come with them now.

DarkAisling · #49 09-25-2011, 12:35 PM

Just got mine mostly done.

My one lingering question is if I should put the drain plug back in the hot water tank? It isn't in right now, and the manual tells me nothing. I can see pros and cons to leaving it out and putting it back in.

Also, has anyone had a pump bypass installed? Was it costly? It wasn't easy for me get the antifreeze into the freshwater tank. I'm not that strong, and trying to manage a funnel and the huge antifreeze jug was a pain. It would be much easier with the bypass that would just suck the antifreeze out of the bottle.

artie · #50 09-25-2011, 02:25 PM

I just spent a couple of days working on mine. The plumbers will probably laugh but I took out a shower and moved a sink. They do not make the older plastic lines anymore. But they do make an adapter that joins the old plastic lines to the new type of plastic lines. What you do is insert the adapter and squeeze a pinch clamp to seal them. You wouldn't think it but the adapter has to go in a specfic way. I put in everyone backwards and when I turned the water on I had water everywhere. Still trying to dry out the insulation in the floor. One end of the adapter is designed for the new pipe and the other end of the adaptor is designed for the old pipe. As a guy at another store told me go to the orange store they will rent you the crimping tool. I went to the orange store and at rental they bent over backwards to figure out what I had done wrong. A fellow from plumbing came down and took one look at the plumbing I had brought with me and knew my mistake. go figure. Adapter in the other way now no leaks.

DarkAisling · #51 09-25-2011, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mountain Guy

How old of an RV?
Older models may not have bypasses. I would think that all new trailers come with them now.

Our hot water tank is below our oven. To access the hot water tank bypass I had to take off the panel under the oven.

lucky_magic_stick · #52 09-25-2011, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarkAisling

Just got mine mostly done.

My one lingering question is if I should put the drain plug back in the hot water tank? It isn't in right now, and the manual tells me nothing. I can see pros and cons to leaving it out and putting it back in.

Also, has anyone had a pump bypass installed? Was it costly? It wasn't easy for me get the antifreeze into the freshwater tank. I'm not that strong, and trying to manage a funnel and the huge antifreeze jug was a pain. It would be much easier with the bypass that would just suck the antifreeze out of the bottle.

Shelly next time drain the fresh water tank locate the waterpump should be near the tank and disconect the hose at the tank then put the hose in the 4 liter jug and go form there. I use 2 jugs for my trailer hope this helps.I'd put the plug back in if your sure the hot water tank is fully drained. Cheers Andy

DarkAisling · #53 09-25-2011, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lucky_magic_stick

Shelly next time drain the fresh water tank locate the waterpump should be near the tank and disconect the hose at the tank then put the hose in the 4 liter jug and go form there. I use 2 jugs for my trailer hope this helps.I'd put the plug back in if your sure the hot water tank is fully drained. Cheers Andy

Thanks, Andy.

I just had a look, and I can't get at it. Our trailer is almost totally enclosed underneath, and the only thing I have access to is one end of the hose for draining the fresh water tank. The pump and tank are tucked away. The drain hose won't help me next time, will it?

nick0danger · #54 09-25-2011, 03:27 PM

Pump has to accessible how would you replace it when it fails?

lucky_magic_stick · #55 09-25-2011, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarkAisling

Thanks, Andy.

I just had a look, and I can't get at it. Our trailer is almost totally enclosed underneath, and the only thing I have access to is one end of the hose for draining the fresh water tank. The pump and tank are tucked away. The drain hose won't help me next time, will it?

The pump and the water tank should be an easy access from the inside of the trailer in a cupboard or under a bench or bed it should be near were the fill and drain are is the place to start. Cheers Andy

DarkAisling · #56 09-25-2011, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lucky_magic_stick

The pump and the water tank should be an easy access from the inside of the trailer in a cupboard or under a bench or bed it should be near were the fill and drain are is the place to start. Cheers Andy

The pump is accessible by removing the top of the fold-out sofa, or by removing the panels underneath the trailer.

Maybe I'm lazy, but that seems like it might be more trouble than it is worth.

Edit:

Here it is. I have long thin arms, and while I can touch it, I can't quite reach it well enough to work with it without removing the sofa.

bagwan · #57 09-25-2011, 04:35 PM

You can buy an adapter plug that screws onto the inlet side of the pump. Attach a piece of garden hose to this fitting to go in your two gallon anti freeze jug. Adapter is plastic. All you have to do is take the hose off coming from the tank. No anti freeze gets back to the tank. Also you can buy the hot water by-pass kits for older trailers.

Spidey · #58 09-26-2011, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarkAisling

Just got mine mostly done.

My one lingering question is if I should put the drain plug back in the hot water tank? It isn't in right now, and the manual tells me nothing. I can see pros and cons to leaving it out and putting it back in.

If you are referring to the main drain plug (by the heater unit) I believe they advise against it if you plan on putting antifreeze in your hot water tank as there is some sort of anode on the drain plug that can get corroded by the antifreeze. If the HW tank is completely empty though, you should be fine.

For those that like to put antifreeze in their HW tanks, you can buy a basic drain plug to install for the winter while you store the one with the anode elsewhere.

JB_AOL · #59 09-26-2011, 01:07 PM

Just leave the plug out & don't put any antifreeze in the water heater.

tara_13 · #60 09-26-2011, 04:19 PM

We havent done ours yet, Just squeezed in one this past weekend... We did offer my friend to winterize her unit, again... but she didnt want to BOTHER us, so she took it to an RV dealer. Last month. To this day, she still hasnt told me how much she paid to winterize... I asked her before she took it, how much they were charging her ? she didnt know. hhmm...

Do RV dealers charge a flat fee for that work ??