Leaders for pike/ walleye fishing.

[kouleerunner]

Originally Posted by SamSteele

I use the Alberto knot. It’s strong and slim enough to come through the guides without issue if your leader is a tad long.

x2

[Freedom55]

Thanx. That's a new one on me. I like to learn new tricks and that one looks easy to tie in the waves.

Free

[OL_JR]

Might try the Alberto one as well seems easy to tie and slim.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by trophyhunter

x2 with Seaguar leader material, I use #80 and the walleye don’t seem to shy away too much. Not finesse fishing by any means but keeps me from losing expensive gear. Heard of guys even tying their own Lindy rigs with fluorocarbon.


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I buy components and tie up lindy's and blade / bouncers rigs all the time using fluoro leaders. I like the idea of catching fish on something I made and also don't loose every rig every time a pike comes to play.

Usually stick to lighter 20lb - which is good for that occasional dink sized pike (with sharp teeth) that interrupts your walleye fishing.

The small ones have the sharpest teeth and do the most acrobatic thrashing which are hard on leaders.

[pikergolf]

Originally Posted by emallard

What knot do you recommend for connecting the fluorocarbon leader to the braid mainline?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjzUb5QRKuk

[OL_JR]

Originally Posted by pikergolf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjzUb5QRKuk

Thanks for sharing that, not looking so bad at all wow. The methods I have seen earlier just don't look very boat friendly but that is very doable.

[Bushleague]

Originally Posted by EZM

I buy components and tie up lindy's and blade / bouncers rigs all the time using fluoro leaders. I like the idea of catching fish on something I made and also don't loose every rig every time a pike comes to play.

Usually stick to lighter 20lb - which is good for that occasional dink sized pike (with sharp teeth) that interrupts your walleye fishing.

The small ones have the sharpest teeth and do the most acrobatic thrashing which are hard on leaders.

True this, IMO the worst case scenario is when a pike of any size misses the lure but gets the leader or line through his teeth. Then, instead of setting the hook, you simply saw the leader through the fishes mouth.

I've had two cut offs using flouro leaders. Both happened with surprizingly minimal tension, either on the hookset or immediately after, and were cut a long ways up the leader, far from the business end. While its fun to think that a truly huge fish with freakishly sharp teeth just robbed you, I've come to believe it was simply a fish that missed the bait and swam off with the leader between his jaws. Possibly with a steel leader one might have pulled enough leader through and got hooked up rather than getting cut off.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by Bushleague

True this, IMO the worst case scenario is when a pike of any size misses the lure but gets the leader or line through his teeth. Then, instead of setting the hook, you simply saw the leader through the fishes mouth.

I've had two cut offs using flouro leaders. Both happened with surprizingly minimal tension, either on the hookset or immediately after, and were cut a long ways up the leader, far from the business end. While its fun to think that a truly huge fish with freakishly sharp teeth just robbed you, I've come to believe it was simply a fish that missed the bait and swam off with the leader between his jaws. Possibly with a steel leader one might have pulled enough leader through and got hooked up rather than getting cut off.

I've had one small, maybe 15-16" pike bite through a fluorocarbon leader, but it was a very light leader, like maybe 20lb.

I have never had a bite through using fluorocarbon leader material to make leaders on anything 40, 60 or 80lbs.

In fact, my favorite pike casting rod still wears the same 80lb fluorocarbon leader I made up 12-13 years ago. (it's a bit of a game at this point to see how long it will last). I bet I've caught thousands of pike on it. It's rough and nicked up, but on no danger of failing yet.

I will NEVER use steel leaders FOR ANY freshwater fishing here EVER again.

[jungleboy]

I have just started using flouro leaders the last few yrs. I have a large roll of P line 50lb and 80lb that I use. It’s not leader material but I have never had a bite off using it.

[catnthehat]

I have used 40# Mason leader material for 30 years for fly rodding for pike ,it turns over my heavier flies really well, and stands up to big well.
Last year I started using the newer lines for walleye , but never had a chance to get into any big pike, hopefully going to change that this spring .
Cat

[Rvsask]

I also just make my own fluorcarbon leaders for when I intend to fish walleye with the possibility of getting a bunch of pike in the mix. I use 40lb leader material. If fishing pike exclusively I like titanium leaders.

[Coiloil37]

Originally Posted by emallard

What knot do you recommend for connecting the fluorocarbon leader to the braid mainline?

The PR bobbin, 100% knot strength. Here’s 50lb braid tied to 30lb mono. This will slip through the guides without knowing it was there.







That 30lb mono has to contend with 40-50 lb tuna and 50 lb Spanish mackerel so knot strength means everything.

[Osky]

I run 65 lb stealth braid on my deep rigging rods we use for lakers, so I take a 14" or so piece of it and tie a snap on one end and barrel swivel on the other for a leader. My clients use these in waters with walleyes and pike. Very flexible.
I make the same set up out of 100lb stealth when targeting big pike. I've only had one in maybe 15 years cut the line.
It helps with this type of leader or a hit on straight mono by a toothy fish to back the drag down and play them good and tired.... at the boat be sure and keep them down in the water until netted. Don't let them free shake their head if you can help it.
On bigger freshwater pike whatever leader must be 12 inch or so. If the drag is tight the fish make sharper turns and rolls and if the leader is shorter the line will get cut by the gill plate area.
Osky

[EZM]

I do the same thing. Most of my rods have braid that terminates to a quality barrel swivel/snap. They ride in the rod locker like that until ready for use.

When I get to the where I want to fish, I pull the rod out, pick the appropriate leader, snap it on a go fishing in 20 seconds. I keep my leaders in plastic Tupperware, in small labeled bags with tensile weight, length, swivel rating so it's easy to pick what I want.

Not only leaders, but also leads for running a dipsy to flasher, then to a lure, so in some cases instead of having a swivel/snap on one end, and a barrel swivel on the other (the common set up) - Some have swivel snaps on both sides ( example - bad is labeled 60lb, 12", snap/snap).

Makes set up so much faster and easier.

I'm not sure how many variations I have ..... but length and lbs test aside there's snap/snap, snap/swivel and swivel only.

I use the swivel only usually 20lb and long - like 30" so I can attach it to the rod and tie a jig directly to the end.

I usually use a snap for crank baits.

[AK47]

Originally Posted by emallard

What knot do you recommend for connecting the fluorocarbon leader to the braid mainline?

I just use swivel.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by AK47

I just use swivel.

I think a swivel is a necessity on some lures to prevent line twist. Some spoons roll, and you can imagine what would happen to your line (and connection) after dragging it through 5-6 miles of trolling.

Pretty much the only time I don't use a swivel snap or barrel swivel is when connecting a fine clear leader to a hook, jig or some sort of lure where presentation and stealth is important.

When I trolling those 8" to 11" big musky plugs (like you see in the picture closest to the left on that photo) a swivel snap is hardly a distraction.

(Those tackle trays are the Pro-latch XXL big ones roughly 9"x 17" and 3" deep - deceptive on the picture there).

[Bushleague]

Originally Posted by EZM

I think a swivel is a necessity on some lures to prevent line twist. Some spoons roll, and you can imagine what would happen to your line (and connection) after dragging it through 5-6 miles of trolling.

Pretty much the only time I don't use a swivel snap or barrel swivel is when connecting a fine clear leader to a hook, jig or some sort of lure where presentation and stealth is important.

When I trolling those 8" to 11" big musky plugs (like you see in the picture closest to the left on that photo) a swivel snap is hardly a distraction.

(Those tackle trays are the Pro-latch XXL big ones roughly 9"x 17" and 3" deep - deceptive on the picture there).


]

On an unrelated note, if you wish, you can tune a spoon to not roll by experimenting with hook and trailer combinations. To much drag will kill the action, but careful experimentation can turn out some very deadly pike lures that wont twist your line.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by Bushleague

On an unrelated note, if you wish, you can tune a spoon to not roll by experimenting with hook and trailer combinations. To much drag will kill the action, but careful experimentation can turn out some very deadly pike lures that wont twist your line.

Yes, for sure - also speed plays a role often times if she flips over the top too.

Same is true of crankbaits and their "wiggle" - I have some where I've removed hook or replaced them, etc...

Always have wolverine rings, ring pliers and hooks in the boat.

[ragweed]

Originally Posted by mlee

My walleye rods all get 15lb braid and 12lb fluoro leaders....the pike stuff is case by case. I use everything from steel to titanium to fluoro usually 80lb.
That said I've caught plenty of big 15+lb pike on my walleye setups and been lucky.
Ice fishing I run 20lb fluoro leaders on everything unless going after really picky walleye then I'll go down to 10lb. Direct tie double uni line to line and single uni at the lure. Again I've hauled up lots of big pike and Lakers like this and no issues.

Hey MLee. I'm setting up a new rod this year and was wondering if you use 15lb braid as your main line for your pike setups as well? I'm looking to get away from the steel leaders and get into using more of a flouro leader system.

[mlee]

Originally Posted by ragweed

Hey MLee. I'm setting up a new rod this year and was wondering if you use 15lb braid as your main line for your pike setups as well? I'm looking to get away from the steel leaders and get into using more of a flouro leader system.

Pike casting rods get 30lb braid.....trolling rods get 40lb. 30 is even overkill probably but I'm usually targeting bigger pike with expensive lures that I'm not a fan of losing lol....for most every day fishing on most lakes 15 or 20lb is fine for average pike.

[scel]

I have run the absolute range on this one and had many heated discussions on this topic. There is only one thing that I have decided. I have no use for braided steel leaders. They are very visible, easily kink, and catch fewer fish.

When it comes to the TiNi vs Fluoro debate---I sit squarely on the fence. Each has its use.

The other consistent observation that I have made is the faster the bait is moving, the less important the leader choice.

I tend to only fish for pike from May until mid-July, and 75% with flies. After my last heated debate with EZM, I thoroughly gave fluoro leaders a chance (despite the fact they suck to cast on a fly rod) , I can find no functional difference in catch rate between 30# TiNi leader and 40# fluoro leader. In fact, my homemade leaders even fail at the same rate. The TiNi will fail at the clasp while the fluoro will knick.

A 60# fluoro leader is robust, but I feel it is more visible than 30# TiNi. Again, I cannot find a case where once is clearly better than the other, with one clear exception. TiNi leaders are stupid silly sharp and when tying and making leaders, it is possible to get a few cuts and knicks.

For surface flies, I always use a short piece of TiNi leader. Underwater, fluoro is hard to see, but on the surface it acts as sparkle lens.

When fishing for walleye, I prefer to use 15# fluoro leader material. After a pike by-catch, the leader is always retied. If pike and walleye are likely to be caught, then 25# fluoro leader is best. I will not always retie 25# but not checking is a good way to lose a $10 crankbait. That being said, I still catch many walleye with TiNi leaders while fishing for pike.

Proof is in the pudding: https://photos.app.goo.gl/WzuEt7AmqQfjKJ2E7
You can see the 40# line but is really hard to see the TiNi wire (you can see the clasp and fly though)

[ragweed]

Cool. Thanks for the info.

[Lowrance Fishburn]

30 lb flouro leader for pike, 12 lb flouro leader for eyes. Some will say 30lb isnt enough for pike, well it is, and its more sensitive as well. You will also catch more eyes fishing for pike with lighter leader. Sure if a pike inhales your lure it might cut the line - big deal. Shouldn't be inhaling your lures too often or you're probably doing something wrong. Catching a 20lb pike fishing on 12 lb test leader for walleye is also a blast.

[jednastka]

I know that I am "way out there" according to most anglers, but I do the following. I fish 17 lb mono, with a snap swivel tied on, only. I fish larger spoons baits, up to 12" long, with a swivel attached to them. I never use a leader. The larger bait size means smaller fish can't swallow them (but they sure still hit it!), and it seems the larger fish are much more wary, and also do not swallow the bait generally. I check the line for 36" above the swivel after each fish or big hit, and re-tie if there is a nick. On a 7-day fishing trip, I may lose one or two lures, period.


I also tend to fish floating baits, like the Rapala Magnum or the Rapala Shad Rap.



True story: Lost a large (8") red&white shad rap to a big fish on Ranger's Bay in Lac Des Isles. 15 minutes later it popped to the surface once the big lady had worked it free, and I recovered it.