Garage Help!

The Fisherman Guy · #1 12-08-2011

My garage has a problem, and I am hoping that you wouldn't mind sharing your thoughts on a solution to this problem.

My garage floor has cracked and developed a sag on all of the outside corners. The middle of the garage is the only section of floor that is still somewhat level. When I close the 16ft wide garage door, the 6 feet in the center of the door is the only portion of the door that touches the floor. On either side of center, 5 feet on each side, there is a tapered gap under the door which grows to a 3 inch gap on the farthest left and farthest right side of my garage door.

I have explored three potential solutions;

One: I could cut the garage door to fit the un-even floor, but due to the large size of the gap, I could end up with a gap at the top of the door and be no further ahead. -Let me elaborate; I am certain the corners of the garage door have sunk, the center of the garage floor has not heaved upward.

Two: There is a product that I have found which is a 1.5inch vinyl seal that attaches to the bottom of the door, which contours to the uneven floor. The problem is I will still have a gap as the seal only extends to 1.5 inches. I cannot seem to find a seal larger than 1.5 inches.

Three: I contract a concrete injection crew to come in and raise the corners of the garage at a costly expense, which may just sink again in a few years.

I am sure that others have had this similar problem, but from what I have gathered the sag has not been as severe as what I am experiencing.

What do you suggest I do? Are there any other options you can think of to solve this problem?

Thank you in advance for your help!

Map Maker · #2 12-08-2011

if it was my garage, i would scarify the concrete under the door and feather in grout so the floor is level right under the door only.

Alot of people say the concrete on concrete doesnt last but i would at least try it.

HunterDave · #3 12-08-2011

I have the same problem as you but not quite to the 3" gap extent. I might have an inch on either side that is low. I bought a new rubber seal for the bottom of the door that is "U" shaped and compresses where the floor is higher and maintains it's shape where the floor is lower. It's not a 100% seal but for what mine's like it's good enough........the blowing snow eventually fills the rest of the gap.....lol.

With a 3" gap on either side I figure that mud jacking is the best fix but if it cost too much to raise the floor then maybe you can fill the gap with layers of carpet or lengths of lumber shaped to contour the floor as well as the larger rubber seal that I mentioned.

The Fisherman Guy · #4 12-09-2011

Great suggestions guys. Thank you, I appreciate your help. Sounds like the best option is to cut wooden plugs to fit the gaps. Might not be purdy, but being the redneck on the block, the neighbors are used to it by now!

The mud jacking idea would be the route I would take, if I had assurance that it would last the test of time. Sure would be dissapointing to see it continue to sag over the years.

HunterDave · #5 12-09-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Fisherman Guy

The mud jacking idea would be the route I would take, if I had assurance that it would last the test of time. Sure would be dissapointing to see it continue to sag over the years.

I'm pretty sure that the work comes with a guarantee. It doesn't cost anything for an estimate and to ask about the guarantee.

slivers86 · #6 12-09-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Fisherman Guy

My garage has a problem, and I am hoping that you wouldn't mind sharing your thoughts on a solution to this problem.

My garage floor has cracked and developed a sag on all of the outside corners. The middle of the garage is the only section of floor that is still somewhat level. When I close the 16ft wide garage door, the 6 feet in the center of the door is the only portion of the door that touches the floor. On either side of center, 5 feet on each side, there is a tapered gap under the door which grows to a 3 inch gap on the farthest left and farthest right side of my garage door.

I have explored three potential solutions;

One: I could cut the garage door to fit the un-even floor, but due to the large size of the gap, I could end up with a gap at the top of the door and be no further ahead. -Let me elaborate; I am certain the corners of the garage door have sunk, the center of the garage floor has not heaved upward.

Two: There is a product that I have found which is a 1.5inch vinyl seal that attaches to the bottom of the door, which contours to the uneven floor. The problem is I will still have a gap as the seal only extends to 1.5 inches. I cannot seem to find a seal larger than 1.5 inches.

Three: I contract a concrete injection crew to come in and raise the corners of the garage at a costly expense, which may just sink again in a few years.

I am sure that others have had this similar problem, but from what I have gathered the sag has not been as severe as what I am experiencing.

What do you suggest I do? Are there any other options you can think of to solve this problem?

Thank you in advance for your help!

How old is the garage? was it built by the builder or contracter?

could this be a problem with the fill around the garage and not so much of a structural problem?

TreeGuy · #7 12-09-2011

TFG, my garage door is the same way. We measured and cut shims from a 2x4 and screwed them into the bottom of the door. A quick bit of paint and it's good as old. Approximately 90% of material costs were in beer.

2boys1man · #8 12-09-2011

if the floor sunk what happened to the overall structure. is the building attached to a house. 3 inches is alot. i need more info as to a cheap i dont care fix to a ya i care about my man cave or persuing your builder for an all out warranty job

Reeves1 · #9 12-09-2011

Depending on how much you want to spend, maybe have a new pad built to one of the 4 sides & move the building onto it.

The original pad was built wrong.

bisonhunter · #10 12-09-2011

I went and got a piece of rubber flooring base and screwed it to the door. it follows the contour of the floor perfectly, and now i have now snow at all coming in under the door. It was super cheap, but doesn't address the real issue of course. I'll fix it properly when the thaw comes.

ccmckee · #11 12-09-2011

You could try calling Grant @ Concrete Specialists 403-257-3723 and have him pump grout underneath to raise it back up. I've used them a couple of times here at work for sidewalks and concrete steps that have sunk.

Grizzly Adams · #12 12-09-2011

I'd be looking to lynch the guys that built it.

Something very seriously wrong here that is going to be difficult and expensive to fix.

Grizz

roger · #13 12-09-2011

i dont think mudjackers will be a solution...
since the mud has to generate an upward force greater than the weight of the slab being adjusted, it would be more than likely breech the earthen backfill .
My worksite required an adjustment in a sidewalk section and this was what the jackers said, maybe things have changed since (like everything does).

id be leaning towards Reeves solution if at all possible,
either way good luck

Whipper Billy · #14 12-09-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2boys1man

if the floor sunk what happened to the overall structure. is the building attached to a house. 3 inches is alot. i need more info

How old is the garage? Have the corners finished sinking? Have all 4 corners sunk equally? You could measure this and also confirm the floor isn't moving as well.

I wouldn't spend any significant money until I had a good idea what caused the problem (design, construction, water, soil).

I like the door addition solutions for the short term.

The Fisherman Guy · #15 12-09-2011

Great suggestions guys, thanks for your input.

I bought the house 3 years ago. My neighborhood was built in the early 70's, and on my street, none of the houses came with garages at the time. Over the years folks have built garages, with varying degrees of quality.

My garage is a heated detached double. From the limited knowledge I have about construction, the problem lies in the soil beneath the concrete pad. This is why I am hesitant to even try mud jacking; However HunterDave is correct, it wouldn't hurt to get an estimate from an expert on the subject and learn about their guarantee.

Moving the garage, pouring a new pad and moving the garage back to the new pad would be close to the cost of a new build. I don't plan on being in the house for another 5 years, so I am looking for an effective solution which will not create a tremendous build.

Thank you for your suggestions and PM's folks. I knew our collective experience and knowledge would lead me to the most cost effective solution!

wwbirds · #16 12-09-2011

Think settling of the underlying gravel and dirt caused the concrete to drop. I ended up buying a rubber base for door that is probably 2.5 to 3 inches deep from Overhead Doors so it compresses in middle where it is not needed and fills the space on the ends where there used to be a gap. Think it was a $25. fix and you know how cheap I am!!
Rob

HunterDave · #17 12-09-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by TreeGuy

TFG, my garage door is the same way. We measured and cut shims from a 2x4 and screwed them into the bottom of the door. A quick bit of paint and it's good as old. Approximately 90% of material costs were in beer.

I like that idea. I could do that work myself and I wouldn't have to share any beer.

chuck0039 · #18 12-09-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by wwbirds

Think settling of the underlying gravel and dirt caused the concrete to drop. I ended up buying a rubber base for door that is probably 2.5 to 3 inches deep from Overhead Doors so it compresses in middle where it is not needed and fills the space on the ends where there used to be a gap. Think it was a $25. fix and you know how cheap I am!!
Rob

If they used gravel. I have seen a lot of pads poured over a sand bed. Gravel once compacted I don't believe will wash away like sand will. Terrible choice using sand unless you can contain it. If in fact they did use sand under you pad.

Whiskey Wish · #19 12-09-2011

Something like some rubber baler belts would be a quick cheap fix. It is available in 6, 7, 8 and 10 inches wide by whatever length you care to buy. It has been a while since I have bought any new but it used to be on the order of $4 to $6 per foot new. If you know any farmers they might have some used belting around which would be closer to "best" price....free!
Check with any Ag dealers like John Deere, Case-IH or an aftermarket supplier like Fyfe Parts.
Regards,
Dave.

walking buffalo · #20 12-09-2011

I've seen the garage.

Get your valuables out of there, plug in an old extension cord, put the neighbor's dog inside the garage, and burn it all down.

Fluffy must have got trapped inside and shorted a wire.

Two problems solved at once!

With 30+ years of settling and water erosion the problem is not surprising. Water is likely the main culprit here. To lessen further damage make sure ALL of the downspouts take the water well away from the garage sides. Run all of the downspouts off the west side.

When clearing snow, get it all out of the little patio area between the house and garage and along the walkway. Don't pile it up against the house or garage.

The Fisherman Guy · #21 12-09-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by walking buffalo

Get your valuables out of there, plug in an old extension cord, put the neighbor's dog inside the garage, and burn it down.

Most multifaceted solution yet!! Thanks Walking Buffalo; once I reported both neighbors for dog barking complaints, the block has been surprisingly quiet!

Toasted poodle would cheer me up, just a little

Jiffy10 · #22 12-09-2011

Take off the original existing seal.

close the door. Put a sheet of cardboard behind the door
on the concrete floor . With a marker.... trace the bottom of the
door where it meets the cardboard. This will tell you the gap you
need to fill.
You need to cut a filler strip for each side according to the
cardboard traced by the marker. You can use a simple 2x4 cut
with a jigsaw or even a skill saw if its relativley flat . Go to
Barcol doors and purchase the bottom plastic peice that the
rubber strip slides into. ( or you can use the old one )
I suggest a new strip and new rubber seal that is xtra thick.

This should be a low budget job. Its not wise to lift the concrete
as it will put everything out of square . Sounds like th door frame is
square now so dont mess with it.

In simple terms... your door will still be square and you've made the
bottom of the door fit the floor.

simple eh !!!!!!

Albertadiver · #23 12-11-2011

I like walking buffalo's suggestion!

How long has this gap existed? If it's new, I'd be worried. If it has been like this for some time this tells me that the footings are likely not deep enough and they've probably settled over time with frost movement. (especially if it's just a thickened slab edge)

As long as you're not seeing huge movement from year to year, I would say the easiest and cheapest fix is to hire me and Treeguy to build some shims. It may be a whole weekend project btw.

CaberTosser · #24 12-11-2011

An easier solution than TreeGuys shim solution is to prep and clean your concrete to allow you to pour a high berm of Hilti 2-part masonry epoxy along where the door closes and then lower the door to custom form the epoxy shim. Make sure not to raise the door for at least 30 minutes

wwbirds · #25 12-11-2011

I think you are trying to trick him into gluing his garage door closed with fast drying epoxy!

Albertadiver · #26 12-11-2011

Ok - caber can join treeguy and I on the weekend project.

CaberTosser · #27 12-11-2011

WWBirds: Who me?

nahhhhhhh...... I'd never do such a thing .... ... ..