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Old 09-25-2017, 03:18 PM
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Default Rage Hypodermic Breakage Issue?

Hey Guys,

I've had 3 Rage Hypo 100gr. break on me so far this year. All 3 of them broke on the actual ferrule just up from the threaded portion of it. Has anyone else had this problem? It hasn't cost me an animal or anything like that but at $20 each it would be super to get more that 1 shot out of them.

I'm using 5mm FMJs, I'm not sure if that has any effect on this.
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Old 09-25-2017, 03:19 PM
Slicktricker Slicktricker is offline
 
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I had one break on a shoulder of an elk and the arrow splintered so bad there was carbon everywhere inside the elk I will never put one on an arrow again
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Old 09-25-2017, 03:42 PM
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Madball, for myself I treat every broadhead as a consumable, 1 shot and replace for big game...save for small game or coyotes. I have some set aside for practice and ones I use while hunting are "used once".

I don't want to risk a bent ferrule or dull blade causing a poor shot or minimal penetration. I have a drawer full of 1 shot only broadheads at home.

That being said I would be concerned about the durability of the head if they are breaking in the same place.

LC
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck View Post
Madball, for myself I treat every broadhead as a consumable, 1 shot and replace for big game...save for small game or coyotes. I have some set aside for practice and ines I use while hunting are "used once".

I don't want to risk a bent ferrule or dull blade causing a poor shot or minimal penetration. I have a drawer full of 1 shot only broadheads at home.

That being said I would be concerned about the durability of the head if they are breaking in the same place.

LC

Yeah I've been doing the same, saving them for smaller game and practice. I'm now concerned that this breakage issue will cause a bad shot in the future. I think I'll look into a different option.
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:11 PM
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If you go Mechanical I have good luck with Grim Reaper Razor Tip. If you go
Fixed blade one head that has my interest is called "Tooth of the Arrow".

A buddy uses them and swears by them, we did a test at 60 and 87 yards comparing the flight and POI with the Grim Reaper this weekend. They were almost exactly the same on wind drift and POI. Both moved 8-10" with the wind at 87 yards, roughly 20-25km winds. This was just screwing them on the arrow and shooting out of a paper tuned bow.

LC
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Old 09-25-2017, 05:55 PM
Slicktricker Slicktricker is offline
 
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I gave my razor tips away to friends I've been shooting the hades and man do they fly well can't wait to test them out
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Old 09-25-2017, 06:22 PM
slough shark slough shark is offline
 
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I generally view mechanical broadheads as something else that could go wrong. The only time I used one I didn't get a blood trail so I stopped them, fixed blade doesn't seem to matter much on point of impact so I stay the course.
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Old 09-25-2017, 06:48 PM
bucksnbears bucksnbears is offline
 
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Never had a Muzzys do that

Yep, I HATE mechanical heads
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Old 09-25-2017, 09:11 PM
fishcat78 fishcat78 is offline
 
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Default Most definitely...

Rage expanding broad heads are junk, plain and simple. Have been much happier with slick tricks or wack 'em fixed blades. Can't argue with proven killers!!!!!!
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Old 09-25-2017, 10:40 PM
calgarychef calgarychef is offline
 
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Couple things come to mind, even if I don't use mechanicals...

Are they cheap Chinese knock offs that were passed as the real thing?

Do you have poor arrow flight that might cause them to strike off kilter?

Were the shots extremely quartering? This causes some mechanicals to pinwheel during or right after opening, creates huge stresses on the parts.
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Old 09-26-2017, 07:27 AM
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I just posted this on Lefty's bad shot thread



Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck View Post
Recovered the arrow, the insert was bent to almost a 45 and the base of the broadhead snapped off...I put my finger in the entrance and yup broad head lodged into the scapula. I will try to debone with it in place and take some pictures.

Elk/Moose Shoulder blades are hard bone...especially if you hit the thick part. It was simply a poor shot but a good reminder to make sure everything is set correct and you can see before you release. Thankfully he stopped for me to make a followup.

LC
Thanks for the update Lefty. I was asking because my brother just recently had a shot on a big bull and put the arrow into the shoulder. Post shot he found the arrow and noticed the rage broadhead snapped off in the insert and the insert had pressed back into the arrow about 3/16 inch. I found it odd that the broadhead snapped of even on such a straight broadside shot.
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Old 09-26-2017, 09:00 AM
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Thanks to everyone for the replies. I have wanted to use fixed blades but I'm having issues getting the POA/POI to match (or even resemble) my field points. I've tried muzzy trocars and slick tricks and it doesn't matter what I do, at 20 yards there's a 4-5" difference between the field points and broad heads. The bow was properly paper tuned at Jim Bows.

I'm confident its lack of experience thats causing the issue, but I've tried nock tuning, I've tried to match a blade to the cock vane as some have suggested, I've micro adjusted the **** out of my arrow rest and nothing brings the broad heads in with the field points. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears but I very much want to avoid having to adjust my rest between field point use and broadhead use each time because I shoot my bow every day and I hunt with it pretty much every weekend and a day or 2 during the week on the way to work.
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Old 09-26-2017, 09:03 AM
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I can't say for the slick tricks but I couldn't get the muzzys to fly out of my bow either. I shoot strikers now and they fly excellent and have the same POI as my field tips.
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Old 09-26-2017, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calgarychef View Post
Couple things come to mind, even if I don't use mechanicals...

Are they cheap Chinese knock offs that were passed as the real thing?

Do you have poor arrow flight that might cause them to strike off kilter?

Were the shots extremely quartering? This causes some mechanicals to pinwheel during or right after opening, creates huge stresses on the parts.
No they were bought at either Jim Bows or Cabelas. Arrow flight is spot on, none of the shots were quartering much at all.
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Old 09-26-2017, 09:58 AM
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I have always had slick tricks fly to same poi and the grim reaper hades as well
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Old 09-26-2017, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madball View Post
Thanks to everyone for the replies. I have wanted to use fixed blades but I'm having issues getting the POA/POI to match (or even resemble) my field points. I've tried muzzy trocars and slick tricks and it doesn't matter what I do, at 20 yards there's a 4-5" difference between the field points and broad heads. The bow was properly paper tuned at Jim Bows.

I'm confident its lack of experience thats causing the issue, but I've tried nock tuning, I've tried to match a blade to the cock vane as some have suggested, I've micro adjusted the **** out of my arrow rest and nothing brings the broad heads in with the field points. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears but I very much want to avoid having to adjust my rest between field point use and broadhead use each time because I shoot my bow every day and I hunt with it pretty much every weekend and a day or 2 during the week on the way to work.
hand torque can be much more noticeable when shooting with fixed blades I find.
Right now im shooting a hybrid reaper and find them to be excellent. hopefully can report soon about effect on elk or moose.
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  #17  
Old 09-26-2017, 03:13 PM
ks.snow ks.snow is offline
 
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Highly reccomend taking a look at the bloodsport gravedigger broadheads. I use the cut on contact version and they fly true to my field points. They are a hybrid and I find it to be the best of both worlds. Even if the mechanical blades dont deploy there is still a large cutting diameter easily able to kill an animal. There isnt any practice heads, but I just take a pack and tigethen up the tension screw all the way so the mechanicals dont expand. You can get them at wholesale right now. Edmonton North had a few last time I checked.
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madball View Post
Thanks to everyone for the replies. I have wanted to use fixed blades but I'm having issues getting the POA/POI to match (or even resemble) my field points. I've tried muzzy trocars and slick tricks and it doesn't matter what I do, at 20 yards there's a 4-5" difference between the field points and broad heads. The bow was properly paper tuned at Jim Bows.

I'm confident its lack of experience thats causing the issue, but I've tried nock tuning, I've tried to match a blade to the cock vane as some have suggested, I've micro adjusted the **** out of my arrow rest and nothing brings the broad heads in with the field points. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears but I very much want to avoid having to adjust my rest between field point use and broadhead use each time because I shoot my bow every day and I hunt with it pretty much every weekend and a day or 2 during the week on the way to work.
What bow are you shooting?
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madball View Post
Thanks to everyone for the replies. I have wanted to use fixed blades but I'm having issues getting the POA/POI to match (or even resemble) my field points. I've tried muzzy trocars and slick tricks and it doesn't matter what I do, at 20 yards there's a 4-5" difference between the field points and broad heads. The bow was properly paper tuned at Jim Bows.

I'm confident its lack of experience thats causing the issue, but I've tried nock tuning, I've tried to match a blade to the cock vane as some have suggested, I've micro adjusted the **** out of my arrow rest and nothing brings the broad heads in with the field points. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears but I very much want to avoid having to adjust my rest between field point use and broadhead use each time because I shoot my bow every day and I hunt with it pretty much every weekend and a day or 2 during the week on the way to work.
I've had great luck with strikers, trocars and slick tricks, as far as hitting poi. Slick tricks are my go-to hunting head.

Thoughts: 1) are you spin testing your broad head/arrow combos prior to shooting? Given what you've done I would assume so, but it's always worth asking. They have to spin perfect.

2) when was the bow tuned/has the string stretched? Might be worth going back to jimbows and having them re-spec tune it, just to be sure/as a starting point.

3) Are you shooting the appropriate spined arrow? Sometimes a borderline weak spine can paper tune well but have poor broadhead flight. See this with guys who are obsessed with arrow speed, light arrows, it never works out well. Try going up on both spine and gpi.

4-5 inches at 20 yards shows a serious problem that needs to be corrected. Screwing on mechanicals is not the answer, in fact that's exactly how we hear about lost animals. FYI If I was a betting man, my money would be on #3 as the problem/solution.
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Old 09-27-2017, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3blade View Post
I've had great luck with strikers, trocars and slick tricks, as far as hitting poi. Slick tricks are my go-to hunting head.

Thoughts: 1) are you spin testing your broad head/arrow combos prior to shooting? Given what you've done I would assume so, but it's always worth asking. They have to spin perfect.

2) when was the bow tuned/has the string stretched? Might be worth going back to jimbows and having them re-spec tune it, just to be sure/as a starting point.

3) Are you shooting the appropriate spined arrow? Sometimes a borderline weak spine can paper tune well but have poor broadhead flight. See this with guys who are obsessed with arrow speed, light arrows, it never works out well. Try going up on both spine and gpi.

4-5 inches at 20 yards shows a serious problem that needs to be corrected. Screwing on mechanicals is not the answer, in fact that's exactly how we hear about lost animals. FYI If I was a betting man, my money would be on #3 as the problem/solution.
1- I bought a spin tester and everything seems to be ok on the arrows I have in my quiver
2- I may just do that today on the way home
3- I'm shooting at 65# and a 28.5" draw length. My arrows are 340 spine and 11.3 GPI



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Originally Posted by brendan's dad View Post
What bow are you shooting?
A Hoyt Nitrum 34
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Old 09-27-2017, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madball View Post
Hey Guys,

I've had 3 Rage Hypo 100gr. break on me so far this year. All 3 of them broke on the actual ferrule just up from the threaded portion of it. Has anyone else had this problem? It hasn't cost me an animal or anything like that but at $20 each it would be super to get more that 1 shot out of them.

I'm using 5mm FMJs, I'm not sure if that has any effect on this.
Breaking at that point is almost certainly caused by the head not being tight .
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Old 09-27-2017, 11:22 AM
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If it is a Hoyt, paper tuning will rarely produce good fixed broad head flight. You need to yoke tune while bare shaft tuning or yoke tune while broad head tuning. You will need a press to yoke tune that bow.
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Old 09-27-2017, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madball View Post
1- I bought a spin tester and everything seems to be ok on the arrows I have in my quiver
2- I may just do that today on the way home
3- I'm shooting at 65# and a 28.5" draw length. My arrows are 340 spine and 11.3 GPI

A Hoyt Nitrum 34
That's why I don't gamble...seems like you have it covered. I don't see anything wrong, so you might need to talk to someone who specializes in Hoyt as brendans dad suggests. Best of luck
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Old 09-27-2017, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3blade View Post
That's why I don't gamble...seems like you have it covered. I don't see anything wrong, so you might need to talk to someone who specializes in Hoyt as brendans dad suggests. Best of luck
I'm going to take it over to Jim Bows today on the way home and have them look it over.
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Old 09-28-2017, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucksnbears View Post
Never had a Muzzys do that

Yep, I HATE mechanical heads
I have just switched over to muzzys , I will also never be shooting mechanical again
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Old 09-28-2017, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madball View Post
Thanks to everyone for the replies. I have wanted to use fixed blades but I'm having issues getting the POA/POI to match (or even resemble) my field points. I've tried muzzy trocars and slick tricks and it doesn't matter what I do, at 20 yards there's a 4-5" difference between the field points and broad heads. The bow was properly paper tuned at Jim Bows.

I'm confident its lack of experience thats causing the issue, but I've tried nock tuning, I've tried to match a blade to the cock vane as some have suggested, I've micro adjusted the **** out of my arrow rest and nothing brings the broad heads in with the field points. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears but I very much want to avoid having to adjust my rest between field point use and broadhead use each time because I shoot my bow every day and I hunt with it pretty much every weekend and a day or 2 during the week on the way to work.
this is how you fix your issue with any broadhead... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lQQnc1axz9U
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Old 09-29-2017, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carson13 View Post
this is how you fix your issue with any broadhead... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lQQnc1axz9U
I've nock tuned and rest adjusted and all that. Carson at Jimbows actually cleared up a lot for me. I honestly didn't realize that most people will practice with broadheads throughout hunting season. I've been trying to find a solution that would allow me to practice with field tips and hunt with broadheads without having to adjust anything back and forth but that doesn't look like its a possibility.
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Old 09-29-2017, 10:35 AM
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Default Expandables

No breakage, but I've switched off Rages back to fixed for a few reasons:
-Penetration on elk. The expandables just don't seem to work well on elk ribs or even the very thin edge of the scapula. Bunch of issues with mine and friends. I know they do go through deer ribs well, but mostly bad results on elk unless somehow they slip exactly through the ribs. And you're done if they even touch the scapula...
-Always having to close the blades. I stalk or ambush hunt mostly, and they often catch on branches or whatever while on the string and open up. Nothing more frustrating than drawing and noticing one or more pieces is flapping sideways...
-If one opens up even a tad and you launch it without noticing then they fly very oddly...

Elk done for the season with a nice cow. Mmm, tastes great! Solid shots to everyone.
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  #29  
Old 09-30-2017, 09:34 PM
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Mine are usually warped after hitting animal - but I also treat as consumables.
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Old 10-01-2017, 07:30 AM
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Have loved mine. No breakage issues at all.
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