If it's a simple solid window, and if you can stomach the wood price, first figure out what size frame would be good. Then use fir to mill and make the rail, styles and slanted sill. Use mortise/tenon or box-joints with a good wood glue or PL12. The outside stop is just a milled rabbet all around. I used box-joints (half-inch fingers) as they made the most sense for the equipment I have (router and RAS) and for the experience I have with a couple other frames.
Then order a 6mm pane of tempered glass ('no sharp edge') from a glass supplier, and set it into the frame using hard rubber spacers and some double-sided glazier tape if you have it, and lots of clear long-life caulking to ensure an outside weather barrier. Then set mitered stop pieces over top of that, on the indoor side of course, with a light layer of the same caulking for a condensation barrier. Drill pilot holes sideways into the miter-stops at a slight angle every foot or 18 inches or so, making sure you don't contact the glass. Hand-screw in 1-inch brass screws (small Robertson's driver) to set the stop, taking care not to split the wood or touch the glass. Maybe it's not exactly industry standard but they're going strong, solid and square after a year of severe Alberta weather.
If I did something as large as a sliding door replacement, I'd try to get double-paned units with 6mm tempered glass if possible. (Don't know if that's available as I never tried it). It will be heavy.
I generally had good experience using double-pane glass just replacing panes in pre-existing frames. Biggest PITA was getting out the factory staples, essentially destroying the old stops and pane. Order whatever glass size you need - they are all custom made. Of course always allow for a small expansion gap to the side of the frame. That's what the hard rubber spacers in two opposing corners are for. IMHO the biggest chunk of cost in a window is due to the labor involved.
If wood was a no-go for some reason, you might be able to find aluminum extrusion stock in a similar size and shape, then MIG or TIG weld the mitered joints. Maybe even steel. Problem is, there'd be a crazy amount of heat transfer through the metal in extreme weather and you'd have to set up some good insulation program. Might be fun though.
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