Gun Cleaning Procedure

[Deo101]

I'm sure this has been kicked around on her a lot but as we're sighting in and practicing I figured I'd ask...Whats your procedure? What products do you find work best?

I start with Hoppes Elite on patch, push it through, let soak for 10-15mins, run a brush a dozen times are so, then push patches tell dry. Repeat.

I just ordered a tipton rod, brush and jag set and a bore guide. I'm thinking this should make things much easier on myself and my bores.


One thing I"m always stuck on is it doesn't seem to matter how many times I repeat my process I always get a little blue on my patches. I"m starting to think it's the product I'm using or maybe I've never got the gun spotless? I'm really curious to hear how everyone else is doing it. Seems a lot like skinning a cat.....

[BernieL]

Wipe out and let soak for a bit
Brass brush a couple of times through.
Clean brass brush
Alternate dry and oiled patches till clean
Usually less than 8
Wipe all parts with oiled rag
Clean dirty crevices with tooth brush and q tip

[elkhunter11]

The Hoppes products are not too bad for removing carbon, but they are very, very slow at removing copper fouling. If you want the bore cleaned quickly, Butch's Bore Shine or Shooters Choice work well for removing carbon, and KG-12 is as good as it gets for removing copper. If you don't mind leaving a cleaner in the bore to soak for hours, or over night, Wipeout does a good job.

Use a one piece rod and bore guide with properly sized jags and cotton patches. The multi piece aluminum rods that come in those cheap cleaning kits are garbage, as are bore snakes when it comes to properly cleaning a rifled barrel.

[dogslayer403]

Wipe out is a fantastic product by far my favorite copper remover fill it leave it and patch it out. And if your short on time butches boreshine and a nylon brush followed by wet patches till clean then dry patches. With both I patch a light coat of butches gun oil followed by 2-3 dry patches.

I prefer a nylon brush so it isnt ate up by strong copper removers.

[Deo101]

Good info here. I keep hearing good things about wipeout. Might have to give it a try.

[Dick284]

Wipeout is a great product.
I still run lots of other products as well.
Butches Bore Shine
JB's Bore Brite
Ed's Red
Sweets 762
Barnes CR10
Kroil
Nylon brushes

All the potions and concoctions are pointless without the proper tools.
Bore guide
1 piece rod
Push jags
Proper sized patches.

[bluesteelcrush]

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

[Dick284]

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

9 posts in... You're doing terrific.

You are so out in left field on this.

ATF wont touch carbon, copper, or even lead fouling.
Do you even know what these types of fouling lead to if left un attended?
Do you even own firearms?

[dogslayer403]

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

Haha tell us more about how little you know

[dewalt18]

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

Wow.

Someone want to repost this in the "stupidest things you've on AO" thread?

Hmm, maybe we need to start that thread. . .

[catnthehat]

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

Detergent qualities do not have anything to do with removing copper and I doubt very much if that combination will do as good as straight kerosene for powder fouling or industrial ammonia for copper.
However, there are some big minuses involved with the last two liquids I mentioned.
Have you ever actually worn a barrel out to the point where the rifling s completely gone from the throat?

Many here have and take rifle accuracy very seriously

Cat

[elkhunter11]

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

If there was a post for new people to ignore, as far as cleaning barrels goes, then this is it.:rolleye2:

[JohninAB]

Not to derail the thread but what is a good brand for patches and where does one find them?

Some I find tend to be too small for the calibre they are advertised for.

[Dick284]

Not to derail the thread but what is a good brand for patches and where does one find them?

Some I find tend to be too small for the calibre they are advertised for.

PM, Dan OO

[dogslayer403]

Not to derail the thread but what is a good brand for patches and where does one find them?

Some I find tend to be too small for the calibre they are advertised for.

Edit misread post

[Smokinyotes]

Not to derail the thread but what is a good brand for patches and where does one find them?

Some I find tend to be too small for the calibre they are advertised for.

I try and by "plenty o patches from Drayton valley". I recently tried G96 nitro solvent and g96 gun treatment. seemed to work pretty well.

[gitrdun]

I have a wide variety of bore cleaners. Wipeout, Patchout, CR10, Montana Extreme, Butche's #9, JB bore bright and use each depending on requirements and/or time allowance. No matter which, I always follow up with a patch soaked in G96, then a dry patch. I reserve ATF for transmissions and motor oil for internal combustion engines.

[gopher]

Got to wonder what makes Ed's Red.



Red?

[BigRedJeep]

I love my wipeout. Shoot spray wake up and 4-8 patches later my gun is clean and oiled.


Sent from my photon beam particle emitter

[theglove213]

https://nfa.ca/resource-items/eds-red-homebrew-bore-solvent

I don't mind Ed's Red... seems to work okay for the most part but nothing too special or amazing. I'm more of a Wipeout guy with some Sweets if need be. Also the Tipton Ultra Jags are nice, no false blue on the patches after

[Bergerboy]

Got to wonder what makes Ed's Red.



Red?

Dextron 2

[gopher]

Dextron 2

I would never let that home brew crap anywhere near my firearms.


Recipie reads more like paint thiner and paint remover with atf for the red!

[puppyhood1]

Going up to Calgary in the next week who up there sells Wipe Out? thanks

[Salavee]

I love my wipeout. Shoot spray wake up and 4-8 patches later my gun is clean and oiled.


Sent from my photon beam particle emitter



x3

[Salavee]

Dextron 2

mainly ATF and a bit of acetone

[Huntsman]

I use Sweets 762 (in a well ventilated room) for all copper fouling removal.
Sometimes I'll use Accubore or Hoppes Bench Rest 9 (but like mentioned it takes a lot to remove copper fouling) and finished off with CLP.
All my cleaning rods are the Tipton carbon type.

[nekred]

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

Ok how many PSI gets produced in an engine chamber and what temperatures does the cylinder reach in one cycle?

[bluesteelcrush]

Ok how many PSI gets produced in an engine chamber and what temperatures does the cylinder reach in one cycle?

Gas or diesel? Lol

Seriously, everything that says "gun" or "tactical" on it sells for considerably more to do exactly the same thing. Gun folk are a marketer's dream lol

[elkchaser]

Alright before you all start to beating me down for my way ,yes I am sure there are better ways but this has worked fine for me !

Deep cleaning after 40-60 round,s or end of hunting storage

Wipeout ,brass brush 10 - 15 strokes then patches until clean . Repeat then a patch of light gun oil x2 clean the bolt and receiver with a nylon brush lightly oil store .


Quick clean
( while hunting wet dirty or snow )
I keep a bore snake in a ziplock soaked with Wd-40 ,
Pass it through 2or 3 times , lightly spray the rifle ,chamber ,bolt and wipe off the excess with paper towels or a cotton cloth . This is mostly to just disperse moisture and stop any rust .

Also a hint I flush all my rifle bolts with WD -40 when thay are new just to remove the access grease from the factory . Nothing worse than a new rifle in the cold because the grease is to thick and the fire ing pin isn't strikeing hard enough to fire the primer .:angry3: just my 2 cents

[Deo101]

Ok how many PSI gets produced in an engine chamber and what temperatures does the cylinder reach in one cycle?

Where are you going with this? Genuinely curious? Not sure why we're comparing engine's to guns in the first place....

[bluesteelcrush]

Where are you going with this? Genuinely curious? Not sure why we're comparing engine's to guns in the first place....

Because if 0w20 can protect an engine it should be able to protect a gun. Imagine every revolution, every combustion event in the engine is a round through the chamber now X that by 7500+ kms' worth, pretty safe to assume that motor oil can satisfactorily keep a firearm in good running order.

But the labels on motor oil don't say "Super-Hunter-Hi-Power-Lightning-Tactical-Extreme-Buckmaster-Rifleking" with a catchy logo like a silhouette of a hunter with a trophy moose on the ground or a pic of a guy holding up his rifle screaming WOLVERINES! lol so that right there eliminates all possibility that it may do the trick just fine at a fraction of the price, right?

[elkhunter11]

Because if 0w20 can protect an engine it should be able to protect a gun. Imagine every revolution, every combustion event in the engine is a round through the chamber now X that by 7500+ kms' worth, pretty safe to assume that motor oil can satisfactorily keep a firearm in good running order.

But the labels on motor oil don't say "Super-Hunter-Hi-Power-Lightning-Tactical-Extreme-Buckmaster-Rifleking" with a catchy logo like a silhouette of a hunter with a trophy moose on the ground or a pic of a guy holding up his rifle screaming WOLVERINES! lol so that right there eliminates all possibility that it may do the trick just fine at a fraction of the price, right?

If 0w-20 or ATF dissolved copper, would you put them in your engine or transmission?

[Dick284]

Because if 0w20 can protect an engine it should be able to protect a gun. Imagine every revolution, every combustion event in the engine is a round through the chamber now X that by 7500+ kms' worth, pretty safe to assume that motor oil can satisfactorily keep a firearm in good running order.

But the labels on motor oil don't say "Super-Hunter-Hi-Power-Lightning-Tactical-Extreme-Buckmaster-Rifleking" with a catchy logo like a silhouette of a hunter with a trophy moose on the ground or a pic of a guy holding up his rifle screaming WOLVERINES! lol so that right there eliminates all possibility that it may do the trick just fine at a fraction of the price, right?

We aren't talking protection, we are talking cleaning. You know stuff like copper fouling(jacketed bullets), lead fouling(cast bullets), carbon fouling(by product of burning powder), powder fouling(left overs from powder), and even plastic fouling(shotgun wads).

If you fail to look after fouling, you're beloved 0w30 ain't worth much in the end.

[Deo101]

Because if 0w20 can protect an engine it should be able to protect a gun. Imagine every revolution, every combustion event in the engine is a round through the chamber now X that by 7500+ kms' worth, pretty safe to assume that motor oil can satisfactorily keep a firearm in good running order.

But the labels on motor oil don't say "Super-Hunter-Hi-Power-Lightning-Tactical-Extreme-Buckmaster-Rifleking" with a catchy logo like a silhouette of a hunter with a trophy moose on the ground or a pic of a guy holding up his rifle screaming WOLVERINES! lol so that right there eliminates all possibility that it may do the trick just fine at a fraction of the price, right?

Ok I buy the oil argument. Wet and slippery right??? Not so much the ATF thing. A solvent capable of dissolving copper is a long ways from a detergent.

[Jordan Smith]

For several years I've used only a couple of products- DBC and WO. Apply DBC to the bore, cure with a half dozen shots bore sighting and zeroing scope, leave a shot of WO in the bore overnight, push a patch through in the morning, shoot what is typically hundreds of rounds until groups open up, clean bore with Wipeout, shoot until groups open up, rinse, wash, repeat.

I've got dozens of bottles of gun cleaning products and and a bunch of brushes that are sitting on my shelves. They have been collecting dust for quite some time now.

[bluesteelcrush]

If 0w-20 or ATF dissolved copper, would you put them in your engine or transmission?

Manual or automatic?

Do you understand that you need nitric acid to acually dissolve copper? Pretty sure you don't want nitric acid anywhere near your guns, also pretty sure that when cleaning a firearm you're not so much "dissolving" copper as much as dis-lodging it from the steel and wiping it away. In which case a good brush and ATF would do just fine.

[elkhunter11]

Manual or automatic?

Do you understand that you need nitric acid to acually dissolve copper? Pretty sure you don't want nitric acid anywhere near your guns, also pretty sure that when cleaning a firearm you're not so much "dissolving" copper as much as dis-lodging it from the steel and wiping it away. In which case a good brush and ATF would do just fine.

I prefer to avoid using a brush in my barrels any more than necessary. Yet if I run a swab dipped in KG-12 over the copper streaks in the bore, they disappear without having to use force to remove them.

[Dick284]

Manual or automatic?

Do you understand that you need nitric acid to acually dissolve copper? Pretty sure you don't want nitric acid anywhere near your guns, also pretty sure that when cleaning a firearm you're not so much "dissolving" copper as much as dis-lodging it from the steel and wiping it away. In which case a good brush and ATF would do just fine.

Umm no!

Try again, you're doing terrific.

[bluesteelcrush]

Umm no!

Try again, you're doing terrific.

Enlighten me then rather than just calling me out, oh almighty wise one

Boy, KG 12, water based copper dissolver tested on howitzers!!!

Marketing I tell ya...

[Dick284]

Enlighten me then rather than just calling me out, oh almighty wise one

Boy, KG 12, water based copper dissolver tested on howitzers!!!

Marketing I tell ya...

Ammonia eats copper, it's been used since about 1908, or there abouts.

Not Nitic acid!


But let's not let some good old research elude your wide open mind.



You're still doing terrific.

[catnthehat]

Most of the commercial copper removers are ammonia based and caution you about leaving them in the bore too long or using brass brushes because they WILL disolve them, copper , and danged near any other metal .
That is why Wipeout is so popular these days .
ATF will not remove copper .
Cat

[Salavee]

As of about a year ago I use nothing but WO and patches on all my guns. After the final dry patch I put the gun away. I don't finish with a lubed patch if I'm using the gun frequently. For longer storage I run a lightly oiled patch through a couple of times. So far no issues at all.

[bluesteelcrush]

Ammonia eats copper, it's been used since about 1908, or there abouts.

Not Nitic acid!


But let's not let some good old research elude your wide open mind.



You're still doing terrific.

, and all these years I though ammonia was marketed as window cleaner but was actually made a household item as part of a secret government plan to flood our streets with crack cocaine... darn, my bad.

But nitric acid does in fact dissolve copper.

I am terrific BTW but you were a bit slow to realize that. Thank you for the compliment.

[Rockyman41]

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

You are clearly not a mechanic.

[bluesteelcrush]

You are clearly not a mechanic.

Nope. But more importantly I'm not sea bass with a beard either lol, getting reeled in by fear driven tactical-this extreme-that "tested by the military" marketing.

[catnthehat]

Nope. But more importantly I'm not sea bass with a beard either lol, getting reeled in by fear driven tactical-this extreme-that "tested by the military" marketing.

Not sure who you pointed this insult at but please be aware that many members
here are not of the tactical type ( not that that matters )but have been involved in top level rifle and shotgun competitions for many years .
Clean with whatever you want however you want to but if you insist on this type of confrontational posting things will escalate and it will not end well .
Cat

[Rockyman41]

Nope. But more importantly I'm not sea bass with a beard either lol, getting reeled in by fear driven tactical-this extreme-that "tested by the military" marketing.

Neither am I. But if you think engine oil or atf is a good cleaner for engines or guns you are mistaken. Generally speaking we use solvents, not oil to clean carbon buildup in motors.

As far as atf, if it was effective remover of carbon or copper it would be pretty detrimental to a transmission. Clutches are made of a high carbon material and solenoids are full of copper.

[Rockyman41]

Not sure who you pointed this insult at but please be aware that many members
here are not of the tactical type ( not that that matters )but have been involved in top level rifle and shotgun competitions for many years .
Clean with whatever you want however you want to but if you insist on this type of confrontational posting things will escalate and it will not end well .
Cat

Sorry cat, didn't see your post before posting above.

[Chip07]

How about using a bore snake rather than rod and patch's? Been using it this year after every couple outtings and seems to be doing a nice job. Curious what ever one else thinks of these?

[Dick284]

How about using a bore snake rather than rod and patch's? Been using it this year after every couple outtings and seems to be doing a nice job. Curious what ever one else thinks of these?

Your just smearing the crap around.
Just like wiping your butt with a hoola hoop.

How do you know you are removing any fouling if you can't see any color?

Like this:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b28/Dick284/DSCF1383.jpg (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/Dick284/media/DSCF1383.jpg.html)

Boresnake's are ok in the field if you wanna get some crud you picked up in your barrel. That's about all.

They aren't a really good cleaning system.

[elkhunter11]

How about using a bore snake rather than rod and patch's? Been using it this year after every couple outtings and seems to be doing a nice job. Curious what ever one else thinks of these?

Bore snakes drag the same crap through the bore with each pass, they don't remove powder fouling that well, and they are pretty much useless for removing copper fouling.

Someone once posted that using a boresnake to clean a rifle barrel, was like using a hula hoop to wipe your behind. :)

[Dick284]

Someone once posted that using a boresnake to clean a rifle barrel, was like using a hula hoop to wipe your behind. :)


That would have been me!

[Pathfinder76]

Someone once posted that using a boresnake to clean a rifle barrel, was like using a hula hoop to wipe your behind. :)

I wouldn't know. I haven't tried either. :sHa_sarcasticlol:

[Pathfinder76]

http://echolsrifles.blogspot.ca/2015/06/snake-bit.html

[bb356]

That would have been me!

:sHa_shakeshout:

[Salavee]

I use a Boresnake with a cut patch wrapped around well worn/dissolved copper bristles as a follow-up after using WipeOut. Works OK for me in this instance. As a primary fouling remover using other copper removing products they just don't cut it.

[260 Rem]

I prefer one-piece coated rods with a one caliber undersized jag so I can use an oversized cotton patch to envelop the jag.
* 3 wet patches (Sweets 7.62) to remove major crud and start softening copper
* wait a few minutes and the make about 10 passes with a caliber sized nylon brush
* more 7.62 wet patches until patches show clean
* dry patch
* 2 wet patches soaked with rubbing alcohol
* dry patch
* 2 patches with oil
Make sure the rod/jag fit is flush to eliminate any possibility of a "nick" occurring at the crown or when entering the bore. The risk of the latter is greatly reduced with the use of a good quality bore guide.
I also wipe the backside of the recoil lugs with lithium grease.

[Slicktricker]

I only use bore snake in the field for if I needed to clean barrel that's all

[Smokinyotes]

What are you guys using to clean the chamber. I have been using make up remover pads wrapped around a short cleaning rod.

[260 Rem]

What are you guys using to clean the chamber. I have been using make up remover pads wrapped around a short cleaning rod.

I use (shotgun) bore mops....wash them out with soap/water to keep them clean

[Bergerboy]

What are you guys using to clean the chamber. I have been using make up remover pads wrapped around a short cleaning rod.

I use a Tipton Action/Chamber Tool Cleaning Set. It comes with a bunch of swabs that look like tampons ejected from the insertion devices with the strings cut off. Works quite well. Got it at a gun show but I think WSS sells them too.

[Smokinyotes]

I use a Tipton Action/Chamber Tool Cleaning Set. It comes with a bunch of swabs that look like tampons ejected from the insertion devices with the strings cut off. Works quite well. Got it at a gun show but I think WSS sells them too.

I have picked these up and looked them and always end up passing. May have to try one.

[Kurt505]

What are you guys using to clean the chamber. I have been using make up remover pads wrapped around a short cleaning rod.

Tampax

[dogslayer403]

What are you guys using to clean the chamber. I have been using make up remover pads wrapped around a short cleaning rod.

I just use a pistol rod and a mopping jag with a large patch can clean the chamber and also turn it in lug recces
I did try one of the tipton tampon kits the other day as mentioned above and liked it I will be picking one up
On another note in my bore cleaning procedure i always run a patch or two without my bore guide in to catch any liquid in the chamber that could have be right where the guide starts in the chamber

[260 Rem]

I run the first of my wet alcohol patches through the bore guide in place and the second after it has been removed for the same reason.

[tranq78]

What are you guys using to clean the chamber. I have been using make up remover pads wrapped around a short cleaning rod.

Get a plastic slotted tip for shotgun & thread a large patch on either side of it and/or over the top of the slot. Attach slot to your cleaning rod.

Cheaper than one of those Tipton kit thingies & works as well.

[graybeard]

It seems that we have nailed down the process and cleaner(s) for barrel cleaning; good info.

My situation:
It is not uncommon to acquire a very old rifle and the bolt was stuck, not frozen but very, very dirty. It appeared the now deceased owner used motor oil on/in the action and over the past 5-10 years he never used it or cycled it.

I opened the action, but with some effort, as it was VERY sticky. Looking close at the action, the motor oil stain is very apparent and you can smell the old oil.

I do not have a ultrasonic machine so what do I soak it in to remove the old sticky lubricant?
How long do I soak it?

Thanks

[catnthehat]

It seems that we have nailed down the process and cleaner(s) for barrel cleaning; good info.

My situation:
It is not uncommon to acquire a very old rifle and the bolt was stuck, not frozen but very, very dirty. It appeared the now deceased owner used motor oil on/in the action and over the past 5-10 years he never used it or cycled it.

I opened the action, but with some effort, as it was VERY sticky. Looking close at the action, the motor oil stain is very apparent and you can smell the old oil.

I do not have a ultrasonic machine so what do I soak it in to remove the old sticky lubricant?
How long do I soak it?

Thanks

Kroil oil or The spray in your motor type engine cleaners work great for that!
Cat

[bluesteelcrush]

I cannot wrap my head around how much of a hyped up scientific big deal people make about cleaning a firearm.

[260 Rem]

I cannot wrap my head around how much of a hyped up scientific big deal people make about cleaning a firearm.
Not such a mystery really, owners care for (or not) their property based on their personal standards and in many cases that is a reflection of their performance expectations.

[bluesteelcrush]

Not such a mystery really, owners care for (or not) their property based on their personal standards and in many cases that is a reflection of their performance expectations.

"A reflection of their performance expectations" is a slippery slope to judgement... gear/maintenance does help but certainly does not make the athlete. Frigg like it seems to me, either you can shoot straight or you can't, I've heard of people blaming 1 degree MOA or whatever that is and like a 1" difference in groups at X yards, on cleaning products, gimme a break already.

[marxman]

I cannot wrap my head around how much of a hyped up scientific big deal people make about cleaning a firearm.

people who dont give it much thought dont know the results they get, how it could affect their shooting or their gun or if its clean or not.

[260 Rem]

"A reflection of their performance expectations" is a slippery slope to judgement... gear/maintenance does help but certainly does not make the athlete. Frigg like it seems to me, either you can shoot straight or you can't, I've heard of people blaming 1 degree MOA or whatever that is and like a 1" difference in groups at X yards, on cleaning products, gimme a break already.
I've never heard any claims of a particular cleaning product affecting group size ... but, if a product is not removing copper, accuracy/consistency will eventually suffer ... that is a fact.

[elkhunter11]

people who dont give it much thought dont know the results they get, how it could affect their shooting or their gun or if its clean or not.

I've never heard any claims of a particular cleaning product affecting group size ... but, if a product is not removing copper, accuracy/consistency will eventually suffer ... that is a fact.


Exactly! As for the people that scoff at how fouling can effect accuracy, and that choose to ignore proper cleaning of the bore, ignorance is bliss.:)

[Don_Parsons]

Rifles are much like many things each of us own, some like too take care of their stuff and keep it clean and ready to go.

Nothing wrong with a clean rifle, suppose the odd person might not need too depending on limited use of their gun.

I clean mine once in a while threw the year
Pal Don

[YYC338]

I cannot wrap my head around how much of a hyped up scientific big deal people make about cleaning a firearm.

Then don't