Gun Cleaning Procedure

Deo101 · #1 09-10-2016, 09:31 PM

I'm sure this has been kicked around on her a lot but as we're sighting in and practicing I figured I'd ask...Whats your procedure? What products do you find work best?

I start with Hoppes Elite on patch, push it through, let soak for 10-15mins, run a brush a dozen times are so, then push patches tell dry. Repeat.

I just ordered a tipton rod, brush and jag set and a bore guide. I'm thinking this should make things much easier on myself and my bores.

One thing I"m always stuck on is it doesn't seem to matter how many times I repeat my process I always get a little blue on my patches. I"m starting to think it's the product I'm using or maybe I've never got the gun spotless? I'm really curious to hear how everyone else is doing it. Seems a lot like skinning a cat.....

BernieL · #2 09-10-2016, 09:39 PM

Wipe out and let soak for a bit
Brass brush a couple of times through.
Clean brass brush
Alternate dry and oiled patches till clean
Usually less than 8
Wipe all parts with oiled rag
Clean dirty crevices with tooth brush and q tip

elkhunter11 · #3 09-10-2016, 09:54 PM

The Hoppes products are not too bad for removing carbon, but they are very, very slow at removing copper fouling. If you want the bore cleaned quickly, Butch's Bore Shine or Shooters Choice work well for removing carbon, and KG-12 is as good as it gets for removing copper. If you don't mind leaving a cleaner in the bore to soak for hours, or over night, Wipeout does a good job.

Use a one piece rod and bore guide with properly sized jags and cotton patches. The multi piece aluminum rods that come in those cheap cleaning kits are garbage, as are bore snakes when it comes to properly cleaning a rifled barrel.

dogslayer403 · #4 09-10-2016, 09:59 PM

Wipe out is a fantastic product by far my favorite copper remover fill it leave it and patch it out. And if your short on time butches boreshine and a nylon brush followed by wet patches till clean then dry patches. With both I patch a light coat of butches gun oil followed by 2-3 dry patches.

I prefer a nylon brush so it isnt ate up by strong copper removers.

Deo101 · #5 09-11-2016, 08:25 AM

Good info here. I keep hearing good things about wipeout. Might have to give it a try.

Dick284 · #6 09-11-2016, 08:34 AM

Wipeout is a great product.
I still run lots of other products as well.
Butches Bore Shine
JB's Bore Brite
Ed's Red
Sweets 762
Barnes CR10
Kroil
Nylon brushes

All the potions and concoctions are pointless without the proper tools.
Bore guide
1 piece rod
Push jags
Proper sized patches.

bluesteelcrush · #7 09-11-2016, 09:52 AM

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

Dick284 · #8 09-11-2016, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluesteelcrush

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

9 posts in... You're doing terrific.

You are so out in left field on this.

ATF wont touch carbon, copper, or even lead fouling.
Do you even know what these types of fouling lead to if left un attended?
Do you even own firearms?

dogslayer403 · #9 09-11-2016, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluesteelcrush

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

Haha tell us more about how little you know

dewalt18 · #10 09-11-2016, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluesteelcrush

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

Wow.

Someone want to repost this in the "stupidest things you've on AO" thread?

Hmm, maybe we need to start that thread. . .

catnthehat · #11 09-11-2016, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluesteelcrush

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

Detergent qualities do not have anything to do with removing copper and I doubt very much if that combination will do as good as straight kerosene for powder fouling or industrial ammonia for copper.
However, there are some big minuses involved with the last two liquids I mentioned.
Have you ever actually worn a barrel out to the point where the rifling s completely gone from the throat?

Many here have and take rifle accuracy very seriously

Cat

elkhunter11 · #12 09-11-2016, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluesteelcrush

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

If there was a post for new people to ignore, as far as cleaning barrels goes, then this is it.

JohninAB · #13 09-11-2016, 10:35 AM

Not to derail the thread but what is a good brand for patches and where does one find them?

Some I find tend to be too small for the calibre they are advertised for.

Dick284 · #14 09-11-2016, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohninAB

Not to derail the thread but what is a good brand for patches and where does one find them?

Some I find tend to be too small for the calibre they are advertised for.

PM, Dan OO

dogslayer403 · #15 09-11-2016, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohninAB

Not to derail the thread but what is a good brand for patches and where does one find them?

Some I find tend to be too small for the calibre they are advertised for.

Edit misread post

Smokinyotes · #16 09-11-2016, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohninAB

Not to derail the thread but what is a good brand for patches and where does one find them?

Some I find tend to be too small for the calibre they are advertised for.

I try and by "plenty o patches from Drayton valley". I recently tried G96 nitro solvent and g96 gun treatment. seemed to work pretty well.

gitrdun · #17 09-11-2016, 02:48 PM

I have a wide variety of bore cleaners. Wipeout, Patchout, CR10, Montana Extreme, Butche's #9, JB bore bright and use each depending on requirements and/or time allowance. No matter which, I always follow up with a patch soaked in G96, then a dry patch. I reserve ATF for transmissions and motor oil for internal combustion engines.

gopher · #18 09-11-2016, 03:10 PM

Got to wonder what makes Ed's Red.

Red?

BigRedJeep · #19 09-11-2016, 05:19 PM

I love my wipeout. Shoot spray wake up and 4-8 patches later my gun is clean and oiled.

Sent from my photon beam particle emitter

theglove213 · #20 09-11-2016, 07:06 PM

https://nfa.ca/resource-items/eds-re...w-bore-solvent

I don't mind Ed's Red... seems to work okay for the most part but nothing too special or amazing. I'm more of a Wipeout guy with some Sweets if need be. Also the Tipton Ultra Jags are nice, no false blue on the patches after

Bergerboy · #21 09-11-2016, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gopher

Got to wonder what makes Ed's Red.

Red?

Dextron 2

gopher · #22 09-11-2016, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bergerboy

Dextron 2

I would never let that home brew crap anywhere near my firearms.

Recipie reads more like paint thiner and paint remover with atf for the red!

puppyhood1 · #23 09-26-2016, 11:34 AM

Going up to Calgary in the next week who up there sells Wipe Out? thanks

Salavee · #24 09-26-2016, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigRedJeep

I love my wipeout. Shoot spray wake up and 4-8 patches later my gun is clean and oiled.

Sent from my photon beam particle emitter

x3

Salavee · #25 09-26-2016, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bergerboy

Dextron 2

mainly ATF and a bit of acetone

Huntsman · #26 09-26-2016, 01:58 PM

I use Sweets 762 (in a well ventilated room) for all copper fouling removal.
Sometimes I'll use Accubore or Hoppes Bench Rest 9 (but like mentioned it takes a lot to remove copper fouling) and finished off with CLP.
All my cleaning rods are the Tipton carbon type.

nekred · #27 09-26-2016, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluesteelcrush

Seriously, I don't buy into the hype of these super cleaner products and lubes that each claim to be superior to the next. All you need are good bore and regular brushes, cotton patches, rags and ATF and some 0w20. ATF has excellent detergent properties and let's face it what goes on inside an engine is much more intense and prolonged than what happens inside a firearm so there's no need to buy into the marketing hype of some snake oil with a catchy logo.

Flame away. It's your money lol

Ok how many PSI gets produced in an engine chamber and what temperatures does the cylinder reach in one cycle?

bluesteelcrush · #28 09-26-2016, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nekred

Ok how many PSI gets produced in an engine chamber and what temperatures does the cylinder reach in one cycle?

Gas or diesel? Lol

Seriously, everything that says "gun" or "tactical" on it sells for considerably more to do exactly the same thing. Gun folk are a marketer's dream lol

elkchaser · #29 09-26-2016, 03:59 PM

Alright before you all start to beating me down for my way ,yes I am sure there are better ways but this has worked fine for me !

Deep cleaning after 40-60 round,s or end of hunting storage

Wipeout ,brass brush 10 - 15 strokes then patches until clean . Repeat then a patch of light gun oil x2 clean the bolt and receiver with a nylon brush lightly oil store .

Quick clean
( while hunting wet dirty or snow )
I keep a bore snake in a ziplock soaked with Wd-40 ,
Pass it through 2or 3 times , lightly spray the rifle ,chamber ,bolt and wipe off the excess with paper towels or a cotton cloth . This is mostly to just disperse moisture and stop any rust .

Also a hint I flush all my rifle bolts with WD -40 when thay are new just to remove the access grease from the factory . Nothing worse than a new rifle in the cold because the grease is to thick and the fire ing pin isn't strikeing hard enough to fire the primer .

just my 2 cents

Deo101 · #30 09-26-2016, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nekred

Ok how many PSI gets produced in an engine chamber and what temperatures does the cylinder reach in one cycle?

Where are you going with this? Genuinely curious? Not sure why we're comparing engine's to guns in the first place....