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02-10-2022, 08:42 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Crowsnest Pass
Posts: 2,408
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Sheath
Thanks
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02-10-2022, 08:45 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Near Edmonton
Posts: 15,182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken3134
Canadian Outdoor Equipment
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Have you got a picture of yours in the sheath, since they only seem to have one. I ordered both a vertical and horizontal carry LH Kyadex with the knife and we shall see how I like them, never owned a Kyadex sheath before. I have had Horse_man for here on AO make me a few leather things, including sheaths. I will likely order a custom one from him once the new knife shows up because I too really like the look of leather versus hard black plastic. I would likely have one built with the top flap, like a Russel boat knife has. Once he has a pattern he should easily be able to build them for others that are interested.
Bottom sheath
Last edited by Dean2; 02-10-2022 at 08:54 AM.
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03-12-2022, 04:16 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: My House
Posts: 13,486
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Very nice
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03-17-2022, 11:35 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oz
Posts: 2,133
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03-18-2022, 12:06 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 3,822
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^ Good stuff, mate!
Hope you don’t mind, I was going to take my knife out and snap a pic of the edge to show the grind, not the angle, but since you already did, I just want to “enlarge” one a bit and say that this is what the proper working edge should look like, not the shiny polished stuff that many thrive for (I used to do the same, looking for that “mirror” thing, which is a waste of time and counterproductive):
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03-18-2022, 07:34 AM
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Rocky Mtn House,AB
Posts: 2,237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishnguy
^ Good stuff, mate!
Hope you don’t mind, I was going to take my knife out and snap a pic of the edge to show the grind, not the angle, but since you already did, I just want to “enlarge” one a bit and say that this is what the proper working edge should look like, not the shiny polished stuff that many thrive for (I used to do the same, looking for that “mirror” thing, which is a waste of time and counterproductive):
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I agree. Thanx for sharing...
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03-18-2022, 08:27 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 15,938
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This guy seems to have a different prospective.
https://youtu.be/4ZezMl9-SB8
__________________
“I love it when clients bring Berger bullets. It means I get to kill the bear.”
-Billy Molls
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03-18-2022, 01:26 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 3,822
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^ From the second link in my post above, the one with lots of links:
So a 400 grit stone was chosen to use a finish which is more optimized for slicing without going crazy with something very coarse like 120 grit which is somewhat unlikely to be used by most knife owners. Unlike when slicing, with push cutting, a higher polish is superior because of the higher potential sharpness and the reduced resistance when pushing the knife through the material.
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03-30-2022, 03:23 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: My House
Posts: 13,486
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Clint, would that style of knife lend itself to being pinned like this?
Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
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03-30-2022, 03:56 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 6
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Man, steel preference is a huge can of worms and everyone has a different opinion based on experience and certainly other sources on the net. Likely, as with everything, we are far more educated on knife steel properties and edge geometry than any other time in history. But it still boils down to personal preference. I believe most “average” folks really wouldn’t notice a difference between using a high quality blade made from most the “good” steels. As pointed out in this thread, there are lots of factors involved in performance including edge geometry and heat treating a steel to gain all it’s advantages. A knife with poor edge geometry or one not heat treated properly will not perform, no matter the steel type.
If you don’t mind occasionally swiping an edge on a rod or stone to touch an edge up after a hard job like disassembling an elk, I would go with a high quality high carbon blade like W-2 or a “basic” stainless like AEB-L or CPM154. if you want to do multiple critters and not do any edge maintenance, S90V.
And in between are a huge pile of other great steels that also serve equally as well. I personally really like CPM3V for most applications and have used it a lot - holds a great edge and supremely tough. I have read great things about the “new” Magnacut - bought some but have not tried it yet, internet sources indicate it may be the perfect balance for most every type of blade, but again, no personal experience on my part, yet. Clint
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03-30-2022, 04:26 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: My House
Posts: 13,486
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Thanks, Clint.
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03-31-2022, 08:04 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 102
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One custom maker had a YouTube vid if him chopping a 2x4 , cutting carboard , then cutting on deer antler. A few strops and he shaved with it.
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04-01-2022, 05:36 AM
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Rocky Mtn House,AB
Posts: 2,237
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Hi Clint.
First of all, I had the opportunity of seeing many knives that you have fabricated, and frankly, they are awesome!
Started this gig about 3 years ago as a "hobby", and so far, have mostly used 1084 Carbon steel. I know it is not the "best" overall steel out there.
I have a couple of questions for you:
Do you forge your blades, or purchase bars?
If you purchase bars, where do you get them in Canada?
How is the heat treat on CPM3V compared to 1084?
PS: Sorry if I have strayed a little on this very informative thread, but I noticed many did, and I'm glad they did.
...and I don't mind at all!...
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04-09-2022, 03:26 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintc
Man, steel preference is a huge can of worms and everyone has a different opinion based on experience and certainly other sources on the net. Likely, as with everything, we are far more educated on knife steel properties and edge geometry than any other time in history. But it still boils down to personal preference. I believe most “average” folks really wouldn’t notice a difference between using a high quality blade made from most the “good” steels. As pointed out in this thread, there are lots of factors involved in performance including edge geometry and heat treating a steel to gain all it’s advantages. A knife with poor edge geometry or one not heat treated properly will not perform, no matter the steel type.
If you don’t mind occasionally swiping an edge on a rod or stone to touch an edge up after a hard job like disassembling an elk, I would go with a high quality high carbon blade like W-2 or a “basic” stainless like AEB-L or CPM154. if you want to do multiple critters and not do any edge maintenance, S90V.
And in between are a huge pile of other great steels that also serve equally as well. I personally really like CPM3V for most applications and have used it a lot - holds a great edge and supremely tough. I have read great things about the “new” Magnacut - bought some but have not tried it yet, internet sources indicate it may be the perfect balance for most every type of blade, but again, no personal experience on my part, yet. Clint
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He made me a new knife! I hope to use it soon!
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04-09-2022, 03:29 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badbrass
He made me a new knife! I hope to use it soon!
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WOW! That is a beautiful knife sir!
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04-09-2022, 04:20 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 15,938
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__________________
“I love it when clients bring Berger bullets. It means I get to kill the bear.”
-Billy Molls
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04-12-2022, 09:38 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 270hunter
WOW! That is a beautiful knife sir!
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Thanks! I have pictures of when he put it through his forge, and put through the process of making it a knife.
Last edited by badbrass; 04-12-2022 at 09:49 PM.
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04-09-2022, 04:29 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oz
Posts: 2,133
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Well if we aren’t sticking to hunting knives. I finally tracked down a dealer exclusive from a couple years ago and managed to buy one yesterday.
It just needs to find its way across the pond and into my pocket.
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04-10-2022, 10:43 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiloil37
Well if we aren’t sticking to hunting knives. I finally tracked down a dealer exclusive from a couple years ago and managed to buy one yesterday.
It just needs to find its way across the pond and into my pocket.
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I just got one of these Spyderco Paramilitary 2's about a week ago, tan micarta with CPM Cruwear steel, havent used it much yet. My first knife with Cruwear steel, it is scary sharp like the Crotts knife, like it so far time will tell. I could definitely see wanting the Cruwear in a fixed blade.
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04-10-2022, 03:00 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 3,822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken3134
I just got one of these Spyderco Paramilitary 2's about a week ago, tan micarta with CPM Cruwear steel, havent used it much yet. My first knife with Cruwear steel, it is scary sharp like the Crotts knife, like it so far time will tell. I could definitely see wanting the Cruwear in a fixed blade.
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From the other thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishnguy
I currently ”carry” this one:
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Cruware is an excellent steel: it’s tough and decent edge retention, at least on par with or superior to D2 (edit: that’d be Dozier’s D2). Don’t see how a guy can go wrong with that.
Last edited by fishnguy; 04-10-2022 at 03:09 PM.
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04-12-2022, 09:24 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 102
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I received my clintc knife today. No complaints. It is on par or better than my other customs made by Hatt, Schriener, and Cote
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04-12-2022, 09:32 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by senderomag
I received my clintc knife today. No complaints. It is on par or better than my other customs made by Hatt, Schriener, and Cote
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Pictures please!
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05-03-2022, 08:24 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Calgary-Red Deer area
Posts: 3,281
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For all of you ordering Dozier knives, are you just going with the available Arkansas Doziers?
I guess whether you get a Crotts or Dozier, it isn't made by Dan or Bob unless your paying the big bucks?
I've been checking out this thread for the past few days and I'm thinking I might want to order one of these beauties. Trying to decide on which one is the hard part.
Sent from my SM-G970W using Tapatalk
__________________
I'm not really a licensed bodyman or heavy duty mechanic. I just play one at work.
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05-03-2022, 08:34 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 15,938
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I’m not sure anyone has ordered a Dozier here but I could be wrong. They can be picked up at a few dealers if you watch.
Crotts knives are made by Dan.
Here is a shot of the red liners.
__________________
“I love it when clients bring Berger bullets. It means I get to kill the bear.”
-Billy Molls
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05-03-2022, 09:44 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oz
Posts: 2,133
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From my experience Dan puts out a more consistent product.
I’ve bought Doziers that were as good as a Crotts, some that were very close and I owned one I had to send back that should have never made it out of the shop. It’s replacement was the first one I know Dan built himself and it was mint. After that, I went straight to him for the rest of my knives. He does bloody good work, look at Chucks knife. From what I can see the grinds are crisp, exact and it’s something anyone would be proud to own.
That’s not to say Doziers aren’t finished to a high level but they could be made by a few people and are less consistently excellent as what I’ve found Dan’s knives to be.
For those who wonder about the dozier I sent back
There was more but I don’t need to show it.
I haven’t owned one built by Bob because the ones he builds now don’t suit my taste. I have no doubt they’re great.
Chuck, for some reason the scales on your knife reminded me of g10 even though you said in the beginning you had ordered micarta. Probably because the micarta I’ve owned didn’t show any grain like yours does. Good looking knives, go get em bloody.
On more thing. Now this is something I’ve read and seen reports on. I’ve personally never verified it so take it for what it’s worth.
I notice you’ve put an edge on that knife already. D2 has large carbides and I’ve read not to take it past 15 deg per side as you run the risk of carbide tear out if there isn’t enough supporting steel matrix around the carbides to hold them in. I can’t tell what angle you finished that on but it looks to be a lot more acute then whatever angle Dan finishes at. If you get a ragged edge on that knife after some use that would be why. It’s also possible your nowhere near 15 dps and I’m just blowing smoke.
Last edited by Coiloil37; 05-03-2022 at 09:55 PM.
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05-03-2022, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 15,938
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Yikes!
They are green canvas, and highly polished. And feel no different than G10 really.
Funny thing. My Dozier semi skinner was advertised as green canvas. But came with one side brown and one green. The workmanship is flawless, but it makes me wonder if it is a return.
__________________
“I love it when clients bring Berger bullets. It means I get to kill the bear.”
-Billy Molls
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05-04-2022, 09:28 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 405
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All three of those knives, two Crotts and one Dozier are works of very skilled craftsmen.
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05-06-2022, 10:49 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Calgary-Red Deer area
Posts: 3,281
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Well thanks a lot guys I just purchased a Crotts semi skinner with a black maple handle.
Now if someone can help me set up a go fund me page, everyone that contributed to this thread can send me a couple of dollars.
Sent from my SM-G970W using Tapatalk
__________________
I'm not really a licensed bodyman or heavy duty mechanic. I just play one at work.
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05-10-2022, 10:17 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Calgary-Red Deer area
Posts: 3,281
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How is the CTS-XHP compared to the other steels?
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__________________
I'm not really a licensed bodyman or heavy duty mechanic. I just play one at work.
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05-11-2022, 12:12 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 3,822
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^ It’s basically an “improved” D2, a little tougher and more corrosion resistant. It is considered to be stainless, but not as stainless as most other popular stainless steels. I have zero experience with it personally. From my “reading” knowledge, it is comparable to S30V and S35VN (as well as S45VN, perhaps; Elmax?) as far as edge retention goes. It is a decent steel, which I would probably choose over D2, but there are better choices out there, imho.
According to that steel ranking from Ankerson at bladeforums I posted earlier in this thread somewhere, it actually performed quite a bit better than S30V and S35VN when testing the edge retention. However, the guy tested various knives of various hardness, so it all comes back to heat treatment. I could be wrong, but if my memory serves me right, XHP can be treated to be quite a bit harder than either either S30V or S35VN, which will increase edge retention though. Like I said, it is a decent steel from what I read about it, but I think there are better options out there. If the choice was between D2 and CTS-XPH, I’d personally pick the latter.
I said an improved D2 because that is what the goal actually was when they created this steel. They tried to create a baby of D2 and 440C, lol. There is a good article at knifesteelnerds about it, I believe. I will see if I can find it.
Edit: Here is the article: XHP Steel – History and Properties
And part of my previous post in regards to various steel comparisons in terms of edge retention and other qualities:
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishnguy
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Last edited by fishnguy; 05-11-2022 at 12:27 AM.
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