Help Me Heat My Cargo Trailer

[Sitting Bull]

Help needed with different sources of heat for my 7x14 cargo trailer. I have a cargo trailer that I use as a work trailer. It is not insulated. Other than a wood stove, what else can I safely use. I have looked on Kijiji at the Mister heater Big Buddy propane, Kerosene heaters, old Coleman fuel catalytic heaters etc.. I understand the need for proper ventilation and would like to keep my trailer and me warm when used on a few hunting trips a year. I do want to be able to heat all night.
What are your thoughts ?
Thanks

[JohninAB]

Properly vented RV furnace. Buddy uses that in his 8x20 cargo trailer, works well.

[CaberTosser]

First off I would insulate it before trying to heat it. I would strip any present interior panels and line the space between the structural square tubing with sheet foam, then replace the panelling (perhaps install some slightly thicker insulation and then furr out the structural tubing with some plywood strips to accommodate the extra depth. With glass fibre or rockwool insulation you'd have to be more careful to avoid over-packing it and swelling your trailer sheathing. I'd put a layer of sheet foam on the floor with T&G plywood or OSB laid over that.

I would look into the noted RV furnaces or find a standard direct-vent convection heater in a sufficient BTU rating to suit the trailer (not too big either).

[operator john]

As mentioned insulate first.
Here are some suggestions:


https://ca.binnacle.com/BBQ-Stoves-a...266/index.html

[nimrod]

I have a few propane heaters that were in trailers, let me know if you are going with propane , I don't want a lot for the heaters

[Drewski Canuck]

Find an RV wrecker.

You may be able to get the whole furnace as well as larger horizontal tanks that can be permanently mounted outside your trailer for safety. You will need a 12 volt battery to run the fan, but forced air is very nice in that size trailer. You may want to get the inverter from the wrecked trailer so you can plug in if you have a source for power.


Whatever you do, and I see I am the only crazy one to mention it, PUT IN A CO DETECTOR!!!!!

CO is heavier than air, is odourless, and it will drop you before you realize what has happened.

Then, make sure you have a roof vent, and crack it open so you don't end up with condensation problems.

Drewski

[Rastus]

I have a 6 ft wide trailer, 6'6" heigth inside and 12' length, (6 by 12) and I heat it with a double bar heater and it is silient, but I have to use hydro or it don't work. It is insulated with sty-foam. I do not know if it helps, but that is what I use. Without hydro I do not know what to tell you? But insulation works.

[liar]

Originally Posted by operator john

As mentioned insulate first.
Here are some suggestions:


https://ca.binnacle.com/BBQ-Stoves-a...266/index.html

interesting link , thanks for sharing

[skidderman]

Mine is 8X24. Insulated walls & ceiling. Floor is not insulated & that was a big mistake. I installed a 40,000 btu rv furnace & ran one duct 3/4 of the way back. I feel the 40,000 btu is too much. It heats up fast & cools off fast. Would be better off with a smaller furnace that runs longer to maintain heat. It also draws moisture especially in the winter but I no longer use it in winter. And it is very loud. It is difficult to dry clothes due to the moisture in the air. If I had to do it over I would be looking likely at a diesel heater or something like that. In addition the factory insulation is the white stuff that has a poor insulating factor. Better off to pay up & install enerfoil rigid that has an r value of R10 for 1.5 inches. Oh for wouda couda. If I had only known.

[fred1]

Like Caber said, “direct vent heater” if you can find an affordable one. They are a fairly flat against the wall profile & are available in the convection (no electricity required) models. I know a trapper that mounted one in a cargo trailer.

[Immigrant]

Originally Posted by Drewski Canuck

CO is heavier than air, is odourless, and it will drop you before you realize what has happened.

Drewski

A common misconception.

“CO has a molar mass of 28.0, and air has an average molar mass of 28.8. The difference is so slight that CO is found to evenly distribute itself indoors. It is worth mentioning that CO indoors is usually generated from incomplete combustion (heat source) and therefore traveling in a warm air stream. Warm air is more buoyant and does rise. Coupling this fact with the knowledge that CO is lighter than air… I personally have my CO detector located on the ceilings”

[Jerry D]

Insulation
Ventilation
Proper rv furnace
Outdoor sauna style woodstove
There are free standing kerosene or diesel units. I would only do this with a trailer with permanent open vents for safety.

If it was me, possibly an inverter genny running outside connected to thermostat controlled electrical heat. Can run lights and cooking grills and chargers etc during daytime... bar fridge or mini fridge ac etc...

I bet a couple lamps would almost keep the chill out.

Important this is definitely a couple vents and co dector or 2. Forget to vent it for a night and you may ot wake up in the morning

[220 Swift]

Originally Posted by skidderman

Mine is 8X24. Insulated walls & ceiling. Floor is not insulated & that was a big mistake. I installed a 40,000 btu rv furnace & ran one duct 3/4 of the way back. I feel the 40,000 btu is too much. It heats up fast & cools off fast. Would be better off with a smaller furnace that runs longer to maintain heat. It also draws moisture especially in the winter but I no longer use it in winter. And it is very loud. It is difficult to dry clothes due to the moisture in the air. If I had to do it over I would be looking likely at a diesel heater or something like that. In addition the factory insulation is the white stuff that has a poor insulating factor. Better off to pay up & install enerfoil rigid that has an r value of R10 for 1.5 inches. Oh for wouda couda. If I had only known.

In my cottage 8x12 insulated bunkhouse i built- 2x4 walls , it has 3/4” Treated plywood on top of bridge timbers ~10x18”
which are laying on the ground.

On top of the plywood but within the upright walls, i put down 2x4s on the 3.5” with blue styrofoam panels in between - same thickness as the 1.5” 2x4. I cut off the little shiplap edge on a tablesaw.

On top of that i put down another flat wood - i think osb.

On top of it i put the foam lego blocks you buy from walmart. I never put any plastic down on the floor to allow any spilled liquids to eventually work its way down.

Floor is nice even in -30C. My main cottage is shut down over winter but this guy allows me to go ice fishing and use my property year round.

I heat it with a regular square electric 110 space heater. No issues at all.

[NCC]

As others have stated, the first step should be to insulate it. I tried heating a sea can once (gas was almost free) and we ended up with 3” of ice on the floor, roof, and walls.

We have a direct vent heater in our cabin that has been great. It’s natural gas, but I would expect the propane models to also be good.

[sako1]

My boss has the slickest setup I have ever seen. Espar heater running in floor heat. Works amazing.

[57charlie]

That's a small trailer, definitely insulate it. If you're only going to work in it and use it occasionally for hunting give some thought to using an electric heater powered by a small quiet generator. It'll also provide you with a power source and lights when out in the woods.

[pikeman06]

For that size of trailer I would go electric heat too. Nice dry heat, no carbon monoxide to worry about in that small space. Plug it in and bang your done. Lots of cheap gennies out there on kiijiji that would last a lifetime. Just my two cents.

[calgarychef]

https://www.amazon.ca/Heater-Heating...27231471&psc=1

I bought one of these for my trailer. Haven’t hooked it up yet though so I can’t comment on how it works.

[Sitting Bull]

Thanks guys for the input. I do have a Yamaha 2000 inverter so I could use an electric heater. I was wanting something quiet instead of hearing the genie speed up then slow down every time the heater cycled on. or it stays high reving all night. Is a 1500 w heater powerful enough to keep things warm?

[Arctic]

Mine is 7X14', insulated, and stays toasty with a double-mantle naptha lantern and the roof-vent cracked open a bit!

[bloopbloob]

Not sure what the wattage draw is on mine, but what about an electric fireplace? You said you have a genny... MIGHT work, and add a touch of class! Mine is maybe only 8" deep, 40" tall, 2' wide, puts out a lot of heat. I'd steer clear of anything combustion based for safety reasons

[Sitting Bull]

Originally Posted by bloopbloob

Not sure what the wattage draw is on mine, but what about an electric fireplace? You said you have a genny... MIGHT work, and add a touch of class! Mine is maybe only 8" deep, 40" tall, 2' wide, puts out a lot of heat. I'd steer clear of anything combustion based for safety reasons

Nice idea! I like it, would be the envy of the camp.

[220 Swift]

Originally Posted by Sitting Bull

Thanks guys for the input. I do have a Yamaha 2000 inverter so I could use an electric heater. I was wanting something quiet instead of hearing the genie speed up then slow down every time the heater cycled on. or it stays high reving all night. Is a 1500 w heater powerful enough to keep things warm?

Insulated good - yeah no problem. As mentioned above the little one i use kicks out on thermostat alot in cold weather.
T-shirt temperature.

[Arty]

I had a little trailer that size once, normally heated with wood and very well insulated. Tried an electric space heater once in winter because the gov't campsite was equipped with electricity. That was one cold night. Never again.

Unless I could expense the propane, I'd continue with wood but would use a water / antifreeze circuit for heat storage and a convection radiator midway up the wall. With any sort of reliable electricity I'd put in floor water heating too. I'd burn the wood hot and fast with outside air, get the water temp up, and let if circulate for a few hours. Stops things from getting too hot, and smooths out heat delivery. If it works for my engine, it should work for a stove.

[Peace Meal Farm]

Dickinson marine heater and pick your fuel. I have the propane version on my boat's cabin and it is the cat's ass. Only a single hole for ventilation and intake. Works with forced air or radiant. 2 years and I am still on the first 20 lb tank.

[Kim473]

About how many btu's heater needed per cubic foot of space ??? Assuming the area is insulated.

[bezzola]

We have a wood stove in our 7x16

[j335]

Use a diesel/kerosene heater like the big trucks use. Very popular in van conversions and a lot of RV’ers are moving to this. Propane is too bulky.

Google it, lots of info online should be $250 for one and need 12V battery to run it. Put a 100W solar on the roof and you’re set.

[Sitting Bull]

I picked up a small western metals oval wood stove with all pipes for $30.00. I will give this a try and will work on proper fire/heat shields. I have good ventilation so I should be good to go. I will also look for a decent electric heater for the times I don't want to drag the stove around.
Thanks for the help guys.

[calgarychef]

Originally Posted by j335

Use a diesel/kerosene heater like the big trucks use. Very popular in van conversions and a lot of RV’ers are moving to this. Propane is too bulky.

Google it, lots of info online should be $250 for one and need 12V battery to run it. Put a 100W solar on the roof and you’re set.

I think the nice thing about these heaters is they can be run while you tow the trailer. Sometimes it’s nice to keep food and water from freezing.